88pathoffroad

Check the How-To section for how to clean your MAF sensor. The location is right there in pics. The temp sensor should be in front on top of the intake IIRC.

Found it, oops. Fixed thanks to Redpath88's quick hosting skillz.

Nice! Good work, man. Just for clarification, this is for using a Maxima or 300ZX VG30E with the long snout as a swap for a Pathy VG30E, right? I forget, would this work to use on a 3.3?

Point to remember: fuel cools the pump so running it low all the time may shorten the life of your fuel pump...and they're not cheap to replace.

Apparently my hosting provider has gone tits-up. I've lost all my webpages, pics and videos, all 1.2GB. I can't even email them for help cause their server is untouchable. And I can't find the edit options for the forum headers!! Damn Invision, anyway. They changed EVERYTHING when the forum software got upgraded.

Holy crap, he's alive. *faints*

It could be that the valve cover on the driver's side(IIRC) needs to be replaced with a revised version that has improved oil baffles. Oil consumption is getting to be a common complaint and that's the fix. The PCV valve apparently allows tons of oil to blow through the line and into the intake through that valve cover. Replacing the PCV valve won't fix it.

You don't HAVE a flywheel. Even if you did, I can hardly imagine clutch bits going from the inside of the transmission to the outside to get caught in it. Wow. So the speculation is that there are filings or shreds or clutch bits in the fluid, and the first thing he says is to drive the crap out of it, not to change the fluid? Wow again.

Sure.

Block heaters are not standard equipment on any Nissan as far as I know. You must live in the frosty north, eh?

OK, good...at least they can rule out low fluid flow or line pressure from a clogged cooler and try to pin it on you. Now they know it's internal and they were the last ones to touch it. Did they replace the torque converter when they rebuilt it or no?

The problem is that the suspension is cranked all the way up. The tires normally do camber in a little like that at the extreme lower end of IFS suspension travel (full droop, that is) so by setting your front suspension at it's max travel point (full 3" of lift) you have created your own camber problem. New UCA's would help along with an alignment and plenty of spacer shims behind the UCA spindle. You may also need longer UCA spindle bolts to fit enough shims in there and still have the bolts threaded in far enough to make a difference. In the meantime, you probably really should drop it some so that your CV's don't asplode from overextension while running at their maximum angles...the balljoints and steering will waller out early too.

Greg: did you take a look through the bottom end of the y-pipe to make sure they cut a decent hole through the straight tube? 'Cos mine was about the size of a quarter initially. I was amazed.

There is one now. Have fun with it.

I've put three different sets on without removing the bumper. There's ample room inside the bumper to reach your hand and a ratchet in there to tighten a nut...

Tranny. Do you have an external cooler installed?

Um, pouring SeaFoam into the intake will not touch the injectors. You'd have to put it in the gas tank for that to work.

I wouldn't worry about one stud being broken. People drive for thousands of miles with leaky exhaust manifolds with little to no ill effects. How exactly does replacing the leaky manifolds with headers not fix the leaking problem again? I also really doubt it loses any HP unless you're leaking horribly. One broken stud will not cause a noticeable loss in power.

Add a little more brake fluid. The only two things that trigger that light are the e-brake or the fluid level in the MC.

With an active EGR system, it will suck exhaust into the intake all by itself anyway. I'd suspect a sticky IAC valve, MAF sensor or something else like that.

Not with just a 3" suspension lift. With a 3" body lift alone you *can* fit 33's with some real harsh trimming, but not with just the suspension lift.

The rear diff will be fine, I wouldn't worry about it. The H233B has been compared to a Ford 9" in terms of strength... http://www.nissanoffroad.net/messageboard/...php?topic=159.0

Ditto, no brake line mods on mine either.

Yeah, just pull a couple of coils apart a little. Don't kink the lines!

1. None, usually. They fit fine. 2. No idea, but they *should still fit. 3. Yes, yes they are. If Thorleys are the Cadillac of headers, Pacesetters are a Mazda 626...