88pathoffroad

I'd pull the carpet in the back up and take a look at the wiring on top of the tank first.

IIRC, you have to have the pistons notched to clear the valves... You might want to check into that before putting heads on and whatnot.

Ask the guy to measure the coil wire diameter. You want at least the .54" ones, I have the .58" ones and they gave 3" of lift.

OK, OK, OK. Quit giving the guy crap about rust and Toys. He stated his case, you can agree or disagree, but let's try to keep the atmosphere at least a LITTLE friendly, OK? Bottom line, Nissan is NOT going to be interested in taking back 13+ year old vehicles that got rusty. Toyota is only doing it with 95-96 and ups, which is the year the problem stopped on WD21's. I'm very sorry if your frame rusted out, I don't blame the owner unless it's needed, and if it helps any, I see tons of wrecked Pathys in the junkyard with nearly no rust every time I visit. The 89 I bought had lots of rust, my '88 has only surface rust. Go figure.

Getcha a Brita pitcher!

I think you'd have to re-engineer the shifters and e-brake setup at a minimum to put that much body lift on. The only time I've ever seen a problem with a BL was my friend Steve-O, who nose-dived his Pathy at the sand dunes...the whole body shifted forward a little. I dunno about solid mounts. A better way to do that would be to brace each body mount to the next mount with tubing like they did with that Japanese 6" body lift I saw a while back. All the body mounts were braced together with pieces of tubing.

That's a drain tube IIRC...the starter already has holes in the case to let water out.

I suggest checking out the rack and pinion bushings on the firewall. They are known to go soft and allow movement of the entire rack, creating a loose feel to the steering.

87-89's have no knock sensor to begin with. I bet you could simply leave it unplugged and it won't make any difference.

RockAuto's cheapest price is $24.79 each.

If you're not going to go out and do some amazing trails or hardcore wheeling, keep the IFS. SAS'es are for hardcore offroading where you would normally break something and cause a disaster.

My steering box did that a few times before it started leaking like a sieve. Ended up getting a junkyard box to replace it with.

New calipers run around $40 each from what I've seen.

The only thing I can think of that bolts to the back of the alternator is the noise filter/supressor to keep alternator whine out of the stereo system.

I'd check cap and rotor, vacuum lines, the air filter, the fuel filter...and if you feel like it, clean the MAF sensor.

IIRC, the only differences between the VG30i and VG30E headers are smog/EGR hookups. VG30i's have two hookups: the AIV system AND the EGR.

A real Nathan trail horn weighs upwards of 10-12 lbs. FYI, that's not something you want to bolt onto sheetmetal. They also run at fairly high pressure, 120 psi gives a nice loud blast but still nothing like they sound like when they're ON a train. I used to have a 4-horn set. A 5-gallon air tank at 100 psi lasted about 10 blasts or so. A C02 tank would work GREAT if you could keep the horn diaphragms from icing up, hehe.

There is no way for the engine to consume 5 gallons of fuel in 13 miles. It's physically impossible for it to run that rich. There would be CLOUDS of black smoke. Unless I'm REALLY horribly mistaken. Maybe someone siphoned your gas when you were sleeping?

By the way, the guy above was MatterHorn. He had a blue 87 Pathy with the TM 4" lift and 3" BL with 35's. The 35's still rubbed. Anyway, he sold the Pathy and last I remember he moved away. http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?showuser=313

The gloss black sliders above are old bolt-on ShrockWorks sliders. I think they still make them, not sure on the pricing. *goes and looks* http://www.shrockworks.com/Nissan-Rock-Sliders-c-261.html Nope, sorry. Apparently they only make stuff for new X's and Frontiers nowadays. *has an idea* Ahh, I see that they still make them for AC, so I guess you can order them here, but they're $340 unpainted, $390 painted. That's a spendy powdercoat...yeesh. http://www.4x4parts.com/public_html/shop/i...dfc4e048b9d1352

Nope, the stock cat stays put, the AIV line bolts to it. All Pathfinders have an EGR valve AFAIK. It's a real basic part of emissions control, even on non-CA vehicles.

That's only on the 96-up R50 and R51(if I'm not totally mistaken) models.

Gearing ratio selection was optional from what I've seen. I've seen autos with 4.3's stock and manuals with 4.6's stock. Those were the only two gear ratios available in the US, though. Check the under-hood build plate for "Axle Code". HG43 is 4.3's, HG46 is 4.6's.

If I were shopping for a Pathy I'd find a 5-speed. The auto sucks, especially in sand. Bogs down, doesn't want to downshift, no control over it.

Personally, I would tear down the front end of the engine myself, put a new belt on and compression test it to make sure. There have been cases where a t-belt broke and actually did no damage. It would kill me to buy a new engine, install it, then mess with the old one later and find out it wasn't broken after all...