Simon

Nope....it's always turning. If it's warm enough for the clutch to grab, it'll continue turning. The only aspect of this is the water cooling the fluid inside the clutch enough to make it release a little more. Not sure about your Satellite radio question. I wonder though, does the antenna go back down when you listen to a CD? I think they're triggered by the power being on, on the deck.

I've got the IPF 968's with 100w bulbs. Bright as I need them to be. Pezzy runs 868's on her roof, and 968's on her bumper, both sets running 100w bulbs as well.

Don't worry about it. Mine does the same, only when it's cold. It won't hurt anything.

They line up just fine if you undo the old bolts FIRST, and put in the longer bolts (without blocks) right away. Just a couple of threads into the captive nuts. That allows you to lift the truck to insert the other 8 blocks, and the 2 longer bolts keep the body straight.

That depends on where the boost pressure is measured. I think the lower plenums are very close to the same size on the 2 motors. Not sure if that's what counts, or in the cylinders themselves.

I know of a guy who had a Supercharger installed on his non-supercharged Xterra. It worked just fine, on regular gas (may have needed premium) but he only swapped the fuel rails w/injectors, and the ECU.

Ahh yes......the old school message board. What a disaster that was, organizationally. I remember "searching" them looking for unread posts by looking for links I hadn't clicked.

PB Blaster the linkage at the t-case. Soak it well, every day for a week. 99% chance, she'll break free after that. Mine was ALMOST seized completely when I bought it, but some PB and some regular use has it moving much more freely.

1) Good option, though, it only takes 10 minutes, even on a rustbucket like most are up here 2)Definitely a pain. I wasn't happy about notching my floor, and still haven't fixed the console. 3-4)The rad drops down pretty easily. It was about a 10-15 minute job. The hoses work when you drop the rad. 5) I didn't have to extend ANY lines other than the Fuel filler / return lines, and move the PS reservoir down the fenderwell. The brake line "coils" are still flexible, and have no sign of kinking. Total time, 20-25 minutes I wasn't crapping on the 2" either, just hadn't heard of any significant install variances as compared to the 3", hence my question.

Good to see some progress B. I question, though, what's easier on a WD21 with the 2" as compared to the 3"? I didn't think there was much difference in the amount of work. I know that on a WD22 Xterra, there's a big difference in the amount of work between the two.

Yep. THe R50's use the same aftermarket Warn Hub as the WD21's. They're sized to fit inside stock wheels. Stock wheels have a 100mm bore.

100mm

X2. I had a 33" tire up there, between the roof rack crossbars, and ratchet strapped down. No problems.

This doesn't make sense at all. Cranking the T-bars SHOULD in ANY case make the tires go /--\ not \--/. This is going to sound like a VERY stupid question, but are you referencing the spacing between the upper or lower bumpstops? Is it at all possible you're cranking the t-bars down instead of up? The spacing between the UCA and the upper bump stop should get smaller when you crank the t-bars up. Conversely, the spacing between the Lower Control Arm (LCA) and the lower bump stop will increase as you crank it up.

You can use your stock rims and tires with no problem with the lift. Pezzy runs hers in the winter.

So it's like a WD21.

While I agree with the logic presented here, I, personally, do not touch the cam or crank seals when doing the timing belt. I am always afraid that I will cause a leak by improperly installing the seals, or by loosening some crud that's holding the oil in the engine. This is something where I believe "if it ain't broke, don't fix it". Hasn't failed me yet.

Yes....the lift. you can't use the rear coils out of the JGC for anything. You put the front coils of the JGC in the rear of your truck.

x2

No need for any extra kit. the 29091 part number contains all you need.

I'm almost 100% sure your wheel bearings are not tight enough. You may need to put a tire on, and wiggle back and forth to try to get the bearings to "seat".

Try putting a 3" exhaust on our motors, and then say that. You're wrong.

x2 on what B said. If unplugging the O2 doesn't change anything, then it's not working properly. I've had them go and not throw a code.

Colby is correct.

That I don't know.....but their website used to state "Beefy, off the shelf, Chevy tie rod ends for the inners" or something to that effect.