adamzan

I have all wheel disc too, and I need at least the drivers side cable. Thanks for posting those part numbers. Probably still cheaper than nissan ones. Of course because I live in canada, I am probably going to get raped on this.

Those look like the factory wires, you shouldn't be getting any shocks. I would throw a new set of wires on it.

This happened to my friends 318 dodge ram while I was with him. These pulleys make noise for months and no one notices or decides to do anything till it fails like that... I sure loved helping him change that in a gas station parking lot when it was -30 out.

Is it a 4wd? I'm pretty sure you have to remove the front differential to change the sump gasket.

Nope, most people who buy vehicles here think that running it through the cheapest touchless car wash and changing the oil constitutes good maintenance. My friend is of the "hey its raining, free car wash" mentality and he wonders why his 2010 sentra is already rusting.

I heard from someone who worked at a dealer that they changed the details of the recall so that almost all of them are fixable now. My dads was like yours and they gave him 5500 for his 2000 with 300k on it...But then recently I saw a guy locally who showed me one that was actually separated, and they fixed it....

With all the bolts out, the trans and engine should separate easily. I've never pulled a motor, but I swapped the transmission in my 94 around xmas time, and once all the bolts were out, it practically fell out. Mine had only 4 torque converter to flywheel bolts too. When you go to re install make sure you loc tite and torque those bastards to spec! That bracket is what makes puts the starter in the right place for proper contact on the flywheel. Mine wasn't bolted up quite right and the starter sounded terrible until I fixed it.

Should fit no problem.

RIP, Buddy

Heat it up with a propane or mapp gas torch. Or let the truck run for 10 minutes. It's a 22mm. I just changed an original one in a 95 last week. Had no issues getting it out.

If the sound you're getting is like a high pitched whirring, you probably set the belt tension a bit too tight. If it annoys you, you can tear it all apart and loosen it a bit, or just live with it till the belt wears in and it goes away.

Third diagram, part number 11826? http://www.courtesyparts.com/pathfinder-parts-wd21-1987-1995/genuine-nissan-parts/engine-mechanical/118-crankcase-ventilation/-c-5572_5573_5574_5581.html Also for the maf plug, you remove the little metal wire clip that goes around it with a screw driver, then it just pulls off. Don't lose the clip, obviously lol. It likes to go flying.

You can change the pcv, maf and o2 yourself. The maf and pcv would probably take 20 minutes of combined total time....

They did work, mine did right up until I took them off to install my lift. If someone has changed your shocks the switch won't do anything anymore. No big deal.

I was told by one of the alignment places I went to that the procedure is to adjust camber/caster, drive it around the block, then come back and adjust toe, as they want the suspension settled completely to set the toe. Of course when they did mine they repeated this for like 4 hours to get it right LOL.

Yea that is so weird. The belt for all round tooth vg's is the same. Someone gave me a belt they bought for their 97 r50, and I ended up installing it on my friends 2003 Xterra....FWIW the tensioner is the same too.

These engines are tough but don't like being run low on oil. Time to look for a new motor or do a vg33 swap!

when you got the tires put on did you ask them to check to see if any of the wheels are bent? Most places are always in a rush and will throw the tires on and balance them to "good enough" meaning that it may still show needing weights, they think you won't notice. I honestly had loose front end parts like ball joints etc... and it didn't shake at all, just felt loose.

Unplug the o2 and see if it runs better. If it does, then you know.

What size tires are those? If they are bigger than 31" that is why it gears down so much on the highway.

If you put it in power mode and leave it in "2", I find it will pick the right gear for the situation itself...With headers on mine, compared to my stock exhaust old pathy, I can hold speed in OD easier than before on the same hills. What kind of off roading are you doing? Why not just use 4-low?

I know a guy here that had a 95 manual that he swapped the 4.6 gears from an auto into. With the stock 235 tires, it screamed well over 3k at 100kmh...

MAYBE if you have an auto, and your torque converter won't lock...But then if that's the case you have other issues.