adamzan

Why do people on here think changing the oil will affect the rpms it runs at, at speed? The gearing is the only thing that affects this...

Great to see someone has installed one of these on a pathy. There are a couple other ones around like the yellow box and speedo healer. I am going to install one because I swapped in an xterra trans and couldn't get the speed sensor out of my old tranny lol. Plus I run 33s making it useless anyway. Thanks for the write up!

Sounds low to me. Mine runs around 2100 at 62mph and that is with 33s. Sure your tach is working right?

H233B

This ^^^^ If you take off the wheel and give th rotor a good look over, you will actually see where it is too, usually in the shape of the brake pad...I just sanded it off on my friend's mazda 3 and he said it feels pretty smooth again.

To me it sounds like you moved the timing too far back...Are you sure you're reading the marks on the pulley correctly?

I am in the group on there, some of the people I recognize fro m here, others are just morons posting pictures of their hacked up junk and asking stupid questions.

Are the front calipers on the right way? Way back when I first changed a set i mixed up the left and right and they wouldn't bleed....derp. Make sure the bleed screws are at the top!

Mine doesnt make noise must be lucky...

The fuel gauges in these tend to read low, both of mine have. It doesn't really bother me, since I know I can go real far on the light, but anyways...Check your o2 sensors, while they may not set an engine light they could still be getting lazy especially after 10+ years. Also a set of manual hubs in the front will stop the drag of the front driveline that is not needed in 2wd.

That how to will work. If you read it says: For VG30E with slotted switch: Turn the 'diagnostic mode selector' screw on the ECU fully clockwise. The check engine light will go out. Wait 5 seconds, then turn the screw fully counter clockwise.

In the how to section in the garage area, there is a thread on how to read your ecu codes. I would start there. If the engine light is on then it definitely has a code stored.

I have no idea how hard it is to just do the trans. I imagine any shop with half a brain could figure it out. I might do a half assed write up about my experience. The one in your link should work. Not sure if the frontier ones are hd but I imagine they are.

Aww I was hoping to hear some Frenchman say le pathfinder run good bien oui tabernac. Happy it runs well though

Oem for the 94-95 years was Bosch. That's what I've pulled out of both my wd21s. The ngk ones work great and they are cheaper too lol.

Mine is a 94 with 274,000km and I get 17 mpg on 33s...Though I do granny it most places I like to fly down the freeway at 70mph

Pull the distributor cap and check for brown dust or any looseness in the shaft. Could be a failing distributor.

The rear o2 sensors only tell if the cats are working. Swap out the front ones.

Whoa, you don't have to do that much! You can just drop the pan by itself, use a 1/4 inch drive ratchet for the bolts by the trans mount. As for the exhaust, I unbolted it from the passenger side manifold and pulled it down. Or you can remove some tube once you unbolt the pan.

My old pathy used to do that. Reverse, when it worked, never slipped ever. But there were many a time where I would go to back into a parking space and throw it in reverse, and have the tires chirp as it slammed in. When reverse doesn't work, try just leaving it in R and see if it engages eventually. Sounds like you have something sticking. I used seafoam trans tune and it made mine a lot better. Downside is you'll have to drain all that fluid again.

I will do that. I assume there is some kind of spec in the fsm. Hopefully I don't have to take all that apart.... I tried that today and it worked! Just gotta get someone to watch it now... Yes it happens probably 90% of the time. Doesn't seem to do it when I put it in reverse though. I'll do that too, I don't think the t-case is an issue as it started in the fall, then my tranny died. I replaced the trans and t-case at the same time so the case is new and it still does it. I'll post up what I find.

The tranny mount looks good, no cracks and it doesn't move when I push up on the trans...I did use the one that came with the xterra. I thought maybe my old one was bad so I used the one that came with the new tranny. It is the same as the old pathy one. I will have a second look at the rear arms. Maybe just change the bushings anyways, they are 20 years old.

As the title states I'm having thunk noise when I take off, or when I let off the brakes after coming to a stop, it feels like something is loose. At first I figured, bad u joints. So I grabbed the drive shaft and found no play (I also checked them when I had the shaft off for the tranny swap). Then I checked the trailing arms, I could move them a tad, but I was really trying hard, but they didn't seem that loose. I also rocked the truck back and forth while it was in park and the pinion angle changes slightly (and I mean its hardly noticeable). I am also getting a vibration in the rear end around 50mph. I thought it was the transmission, but then after the xterra swap it was still there. Strange thing is, when it was really cold, it was perfectly fine, which made me forget about it for most of the winter... Anyone ever had this before?

Not really. Most stores still have things in stock, or can get them same day. I agree with you on nissan oem parts, though. My friend likes mk2 vw's, now those are hard to find parts for.

It probably is the hubs. Either sticking or the two brake plates are worn down. I had this problem on my old one. I threw on a set of good used pieces and never had an issue again. If it gets cold where you live, don't use a thick grease or they will not work properly. The grease nissan used was good, but I just used fluid film to lube my hubs.