adamzan

You don't "need" it but it is recommended.

Make sure the two washers that go on either side of the crank gear for the timing belt are in the right place...

Once you break the nuts free, the center adjuster thing should turn fairly easily. Almost by hand.

Some boots like the moog ones have little holes for the grease to escape. I just fill it till I see fresh grease coming out if it is an old joint.

The 93 stalk is more square and doesn't have the rear wiper controls on it.

Then you'll be disappointed because I have had both types on two wd21 and the difference was marginal....

I like how your truck has the two tone even inside the tail light area.

My xe came with a matching chrome rim and 235/75/15 tire mounted in the cargo area I have extra lego rims but I'm kinda far from you. Is this the one you were planning on putting an xterra trans into?

^ Definitely check the drums. If they are way out of adjustment it will take quite a bit of pedal stroke to engage them.

Do you have lots of pad left? If the pads are low on material the pedal will go way down like that. Also, disk or drums in the rear?

You remove the inner bearing by prying the grease seal out from the back of the hub.

The other little round thing is the bpt valve. On mine the little 1.5 inch rubber hose that connects the two was split and caused an egr code.

If you are changing the bearings, you have to change the races as well, and the grease seal on the inside. If you don't change the races the new bearings won't seat right and will fail real fast, make noise, or not tighten.

The hell with him lol. I wouldn't even take it offroad, that thing is too nice. Then again I come from a place where I would probably only take that out in nice weather

If you're just changing steering parts and not touching ride height you should be good. The fsm has the toe spec. I think its somewhere around 3-5 mm. You could set it to 0 toe if you want. It might wander a little though.

In Canada everything is stupid expensive.

I always called it roll starting... I would have thought all the vg30e wd21 starters would be the same. The flywheel and where it mounts, I doubt are different.

If you're just putting stock replacements on I would go for some wagner or raybestos rotors and monroe pads. Or you could order Hawk pads for better brakes.

It isn't really rust that messes up the hole, its the fact that the bushings are loose. The rod starts to move and wears the hole into an oval shape.

If you take it apart and the brushes are worn down, just buy a new one. I cleaned mine a few times but it would only last a month or so.

I received a PM from that same member the other day lol.

Unless it is leaking into the cab somewhere like my old rig did. That was a pita.

That works if you really need to but Every time I did it without the socket, my bearings would be loose a few thousand miles later. I did it for years like that. But like scotty says "How many times do I have to tell you, the right tool for the right job!"

Good god dennis, clean that thing!

The auto trans one is in the "range sensor" which does the neutral safety and the reverse lights. It is on the side of the transmission somewhere, I believe the FSM will have the location.