adamzan

Just looking at your pictures again, and totally off topic, but did someone cut and pry part of the body away there?? Wtf?

If you're going to the store why not just pick up a right length bolt alog with a nut. On mine the tabs pryed apart because the sleeve was seized onto the bolt so I had to weld the tab back on. My shocks were original on all 4 corners.

I will check that out, I have headers now, so could I just re attach those grounds to another place on the motor? Also, where did they go on the other end? Mine are all non-existant. I have one of these style battery terminals on the negative side. I always thought that they gave a ****** connection. I think I will try and buy a new negative cable. Yes I tried that, even on the other cluster I swapped in. I cranked that @!*% down tight, got almost 1/2 a turn out of all of them. On both clusters I tried. Noticed that at idle the temp drops down to normal, but when driving it goes up...like past halfway.

If you remove the cat here its a huge fine.

Hey, so for the past little while I noticed my temp gauge is not working properly. It seems that whenever you use anything that takes a decent amount of current (power windows, headlights, rear defrost, blower fan) that the gauge will spike up slightly and then go down. And when you drive it will go slightly over half almost to 3/4 sometimes and then drop back down while idling. Should not be doing this especially in the middle of winter here. I swapped clusters, did the same thing, swapped temp senders did the same thing. I am starting to think that I actually have two issues here. Is there a certain ground that may be bad? Also what could be causing it to run hotter, I have a 180 deg thermostat but it has been in there since before last winter and I did not have any issues with it. I made a video of it, it is idling my garage but you can see what I mean:

Here in the province where fun forgot Ontario, you can actually get a ticket for "stunt driving" as they call it for going 68mph in some places. I can see why on a residential street, but others the speed limits are downright retarded. We can thank premiere "dad" dalton mcguinty for bringing in this law a few years ago. My friend even got warned for stunt driving because he was doing donuts in an empty parking lot...

Your battery is frozen.

Mine, when driving conservatively on the highway will get about 140-170km to that point...City driving I get about 115 to each 1/4 roughly. Usually get 500 to about 65 liters of gas. Which works out to around 18 mpg. I can get low 20's on the highway in the summer. Winter is a write off dude to more idling and wheelspin haha.

I have templates that another member made and gave to me when he sold his truck...I could take somenpics with measurements or something.

If the rotor does not turn the timing belt is most likely broken...

Should be running 5w30 in these rigs.

I was going to weld in those pieces on mine but I didn't want to wait for the shipping so I just cut some pieces myself. Took me about 1/2 a day to weld them in. I am not a pro welder but the welds are strong and I never had another problem with it...I would find a buddy with a welder and have at 'er.

Ac belt is the middle one so the power steering one would have to come off. If you don't plan on using it again just cut it.

If you want durability I would just stick with the glass ones....Glad I did. Personally I think the hardbody swap on the wd21 looks out of place.

I would first start by checking the timing with a timing light. I know you said the belt was on perfect. But @!*% happens. It should be 12 degrees on the TBI model. If it is far off you know where your problem is. If it is fine I would think maybe some of the connectors have corrosion and when you disturbed them maybe one is not making perfect contact. To check the ATF level, drive around until it is at operating temp, then cycle through each gear. Then check the dipstick. It should read somewhere in the hashed are on the HOT side. I don't think the atf level would make it bog unless it was way way low or over. To bleed the cooling system just run it with the rad cap off for a while. But do this from cold or you will have a big mess. I run mine about 10 minutes and it was fine. Make sure the heater is on full hot to circulate the coolant.

FWIW this is what my current pathy has on it now (was in an accident at some point) they seem to be pretty nice. Way better light than the stock ones my old rig had.

I had a set of the clear ones too, they were okay light wise, but one cold day the plastic mount cracked. Probably not a big deal out there but that was my experience with them.

The struts if they are completely blown you will get a wobblying feeling and the steering wheel will wiggle a bit. My dad drove his over a year with a blown strut! Some people!!

youngster? You know B is like 100 years old right?

I use some generic parts store rim cleaner and if it is really stuck on, an SOS pad.

I would try and find a good used caliper if possible, or spring for a rebuilt from partsource/crappy tire. You only need to replace the one caliper. But you should change rotors in pairs. I usually buy everything from napa, carquest or Canadian tire. Just because they are close. If I can wait I do rockauto, they ship postal service now which drops the price considerably. The thing I like about CT is that they are all over the country so you can return it anywhere. As long as the rear brakes work and have lots of shoe/pad left I would leave them alone.

I believe that means the passenger side front sensor. I would go with a bosch because that is what the oem ones are.

Try doing the starter relay mod: http://www.4x4parts.com/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=315995&page=0&fpart=all&vc=1 I have done it to 2 pathys and it fixed this issue.

How are those tires in the snow?

No problem. You should have used a rubber mallet lol. Now keep your eye out in the yards for a good fender. Yesterday I put my door lock back together. I hate getting my hands in that tiny space but it wasn't too bad. Today I am changing my transfer case oil