adamzan

People put ARB and other custom bumpers with winches on the front, that is a ton of weight so I'm sure it could handle a plow.

Good, just keep an eye out for funny tire wear. I would still check the toe with the tape measure method just for the hell of it.

I have seen a plow on 3 wd21s here personally. And I knew a guy that had one on a hardbody to plow his parking lot. He said it could really push snow well for a little truck...

What silverton said. I just did this to my truck today, since I had the suspension out doing the transmission. For the r50 you probably want 0 toe since it is rack and pinion.

Mine leaked at the fuel pump but i discovered it was because someone had put the wrong o ring in there. It wasn't till we took the old tank out that it started to leak at the seams as we tilted it. I will tell you that my tank was way over half full when removed. Didn't have anything to siphon the gas with. I didn't even do the job as I had just had major surgery on my intestines. My stepdad, best friend, and someone from here all helped while I supervised. They used a big piece of plywood and my floor jack. It came out no problem. I believe the bolts were m10. The tank I bought from rock auto was the spectra premium brand. It had made in Canada stamped on it and all holes lined up perfect. The o ring kit was missing but rock auto credited me the difference and I bought one at crappie tire. I used a little white lithium grease on the o ring and it worked great. Make sure you buy new rubber fuel line and clamps for the hoses coming off the sending unit as they will be brittle. Line is 5/16" or 7.9mm. Partsource or crappie tire has what you need. Be careful with thr nipples on the sender they are probably rusty. If thr fuel lines are rusted do yourself a favor and go to napa or some thing but a roll of metal fuel line and replace them all. I did this because mine were just starting to get soft.

When I pulled my tank it was leaking at the seams...the inside looked brand new otherwise.

1. I did it near the end of december. It took me almost 3 weeks to do it because I have never done something like that before. It has been working since January with no problems. 2. I used the xterra transfer box, I changed the whole thing all in one piece... 3. I didn't use the xterra control unit. All I did was unplug the sub harness from my old transmission, and plug it into the new one, and then plug it into the main wiring harness. You will also need new rubber hose for the vent lines. You must also use the Xterra torque converter. The place that I got my transmission from ripped a couple of the plugs off of the harness which kind of pissed me off but you probably won't have that issue. I knew the gear ratio were slightly different but honestly I don't notice it...It shifts very nicely and is better than fixing the old (wd21) transmission that reverse stopped working on.

I bought a tank on rock auto for around 100 bucks. Fit perfectly and is way easier than dealing with patching the old one.

The harness plugged right in, and the gear ratios are so close that I don't even notice a difference...

They will fit. I just put a 2002 Xterra (vg33) auto trans into my 1994 wd21 (vg30). Used the transfer case and everything. Bolted right up.

Had that happen to my old pf. Luckily you fixed it before it left you stranded like me.

Also check to make sure the positive cable going to the starter isn't frayed at the end that bolts to the starter. I had that problem and it was causing an intermitent no start.

Now the Jeep guy's give me dirty looks and the finger...

Pulled the kick panels on mine this afternoon. Both are nice and clean looking.

Either or should have some. Just bring the one good one to the store with you. I think they are m6 or m8.

Pull the distributor cap and see if there is any red dust under there.

Or some better tires....May I suggest the goodyear wrangler duratrac. I get stuck trying to leave my driveway all the time since the exit is fairly steep. I just put it in 4wd and put the hammer down.

As long as it has drum brakes it should fit. The disk brake version is different.

Who says he isn't still sheiting his pants?

I hooked mine to the ground on the radiator support near the air filter. But the way you have it is fine. I just didn't want to run a wire across lol.

Maybe i will take my drill to my spade shovel That doesn't seem too expensive. When you consider the cost of a regular high quality shovel is about 30-50 dollars at home depot or whatever.

I would check the screws on the back of the gauge cluster. They come loose over the years. But it would not hurt to check all the ground points anyway.

Well I took it for a drive, and the gauge seems rock solid now...Still going to replace all the motor to body grounds that have vanished. Can someone take a pic of theirs for me so I know where they go?

Look around. I paid less than that for mine. I think I made out with all 4 of mine for around 140 dollars at 4wheel parts with free shipping. They had a buy 3 get one free deal or something.

Okay so I took a good look this afternoon. The ground that bolts to the body halfway through the neg cable was loose! And it was screwed to the inner fender with a self tapping screw. Wtf? Looks like its been that way for years. I removed it, wire brushed the crap out of it, and bolted it to a threaded hole. Also cleaned the battery terminals, they were pretty clean but couldn't hurt. Gauge "seems" to be working better now. But I took my meter and started measuring things. From the battery to the alternator ground wire on the rad support. I have about 19 ohms. From the Batt to the coolant temp sender body I have about 4. From the batt to the inner fender ground of the cable I have 1 ohm. I come from a computer/electronics background and in my opinion all grounds should be 0 ohms...Can anyone confirm this for me on their pathy?