adamzan

When I pulled my tank it was leaking at the seams...the inside looked brand new otherwise.

1. I did it near the end of december. It took me almost 3 weeks to do it because I have never done something like that before. It has been working since January with no problems. 2. I used the xterra transfer box, I changed the whole thing all in one piece... 3. I didn't use the xterra control unit. All I did was unplug the sub harness from my old transmission, and plug it into the new one, and then plug it into the main wiring harness. You will also need new rubber hose for the vent lines. You must also use the Xterra torque converter. The place that I got my transmission from ripped a couple of the plugs off of the harness which kind of pissed me off but you probably won't have that issue. I knew the gear ratio were slightly different but honestly I don't notice it...It shifts very nicely and is better than fixing the old (wd21) transmission that reverse stopped working on.

I bought a tank on rock auto for around 100 bucks. Fit perfectly and is way easier than dealing with patching the old one.

The harness plugged right in, and the gear ratios are so close that I don't even notice a difference...

They will fit. I just put a 2002 Xterra (vg33) auto trans into my 1994 wd21 (vg30). Used the transfer case and everything. Bolted right up.

Had that happen to my old pf. Luckily you fixed it before it left you stranded like me.

Also check to make sure the positive cable going to the starter isn't frayed at the end that bolts to the starter. I had that problem and it was causing an intermitent no start.

Now the Jeep guy's give me dirty looks and the finger...

Pulled the kick panels on mine this afternoon. Both are nice and clean looking.

Either or should have some. Just bring the one good one to the store with you. I think they are m6 or m8.

Pull the distributor cap and see if there is any red dust under there.

Or some better tires....May I suggest the goodyear wrangler duratrac. I get stuck trying to leave my driveway all the time since the exit is fairly steep. I just put it in 4wd and put the hammer down.

As long as it has drum brakes it should fit. The disk brake version is different.

Who says he isn't still sheiting his pants?

I hooked mine to the ground on the radiator support near the air filter. But the way you have it is fine. I just didn't want to run a wire across lol.

Maybe i will take my drill to my spade shovel That doesn't seem too expensive. When you consider the cost of a regular high quality shovel is about 30-50 dollars at home depot or whatever.

I would check the screws on the back of the gauge cluster. They come loose over the years. But it would not hurt to check all the ground points anyway.

Well I took it for a drive, and the gauge seems rock solid now...Still going to replace all the motor to body grounds that have vanished. Can someone take a pic of theirs for me so I know where they go?

Look around. I paid less than that for mine. I think I made out with all 4 of mine for around 140 dollars at 4wheel parts with free shipping. They had a buy 3 get one free deal or something.

Okay so I took a good look this afternoon. The ground that bolts to the body halfway through the neg cable was loose! And it was screwed to the inner fender with a self tapping screw. Wtf? Looks like its been that way for years. I removed it, wire brushed the crap out of it, and bolted it to a threaded hole. Also cleaned the battery terminals, they were pretty clean but couldn't hurt. Gauge "seems" to be working better now. But I took my meter and started measuring things. From the battery to the alternator ground wire on the rad support. I have about 19 ohms. From the Batt to the coolant temp sender body I have about 4. From the batt to the inner fender ground of the cable I have 1 ohm. I come from a computer/electronics background and in my opinion all grounds should be 0 ohms...Can anyone confirm this for me on their pathy?

Yes you can add pretty much everything.

Did you get brake fluid on the shoes? I hear that can make them basically useless.

The 94 is an 80 litre tank. I'm pretty sure the 98 is too, my dads 2000 was 80 litres... Right now I get about 480km to 70 litres.

Filled up tonight, took 72 litres. Not sure on the mileage because I swapped clusters back and forth trying to diagnose an electrical issue...But I did fill it up on Thursday, took 88.50 tonight

Well if it is running well I would probably not bother with the compression check unless it feels like it has no power or something. Maybe take it for a drive and see if it still has the same power? As for the rough running it was probably all the fuel in the cylinders when you tried to start it before. Happend to my brothers VW when it wouldn't fire in the cold, missed for a minute because it was partially flooded. Go buy a lottery ticket!