adamzan

Actually there were 3 stock tire sizes. One was 215/75/15...

Make sure you use good ball joints, especially for the lowers. They aren't extremely hard to change but I bought the cheap ones twice, never again.

Make sure you have bled all the air out of the cooling system. But if you have to change the t-stat its not that hard. Takes me about an hour, you gotta let the silicone cure as well.

Bosch is oem for the o2 sensors, hitachi for most electronics like alternator, starter. spark plugs are NGK, wires are sumitomo or yazaki, cap and rotor Hitachi (at least on mine it was). Brakes are akebono wheel bearings are NSK same with seals I'm pretty sure. MAF is hitachi AC stuff, radiator, heater stuff is calsonic oem radio is sony/clarion depending on options. light bulbs are koito

The poly ones give better handling and a less squishy feel but they do not last as long, at least not in the front control arms. I changed mine twice on my old pathy before I put the rubber style back in.

Is this because you used solder wire without the flux in it? The wire I have comes with flux (even though I have paste) and I never have to use the flux paste.

Could you not just drive it out to the street and then put it on the tow truck?

Yea, if you don't get the vent lines from the xterra, you'll need some longer hose, no big deal. But my trans came with everything. All the fluid lines and connections/bolts are the same. The filter and pan gasket are the same as the wd21 one. Other things that are the same: -transfer case shifter -neutral safety switch -trans line banjo bolts -trans mount -slip yoke -all other connectors other than the ones I mentioned above. There is a sub harness that connects to the speed sensor and 4wd light sensors, you need to use the one off the wd21 trans as the plug is different at the engine bay side. No big deal, took 2 seconds to plug into the new tranny. There is more than enough length in the harness to reach the plugs under the hood. I have a bunch of pictures I can post as well. They don't show everything but it will give people a good idea of what you need to do to get it in/out.

Nope everything fit perfect. The xterra shifter is slightly longer so it even works better with the body lift (less bending).

Got it all done and it runs great, thanks for the help guys.

They fit, but you need to make your own Y pipe.

I use 4low with hubs unlocked to smoke hondas at red lights.

Any aftermarket exhaust stud in the right size will work fine. You don't need to buy the turbo 300zx studs. The ones I got at napa worked just fine.

I will take a picture of it tomorrow to show everyone where it is.

Okay thanks, I bought some loctite today. B, I found the other snap ring, and also discovered we do have a fastenal here, good to know! Ran into another snag, I broke the speed sensor trying to get it out of the old transfer case, I guess it was stuck in there pretty good, there wasn't even a bolt holding it in. So I'm hoping the xterra one will work for now, even if the speedo is off a little.

I know it's 5/16 fuel injection hose. Pretty sure that's the ID.

That is how bad mine was when the o2 sensor was bad when I drove from ottawa to Florida. Pretty much the same distance. Check your Ecu for codes

I got a few questions before I finish my HD xterra tranny swap 1. Should I loctite the bolts that hold the TC to the flexplate? 2. Can someone tell me if the sump gasket can be changed without removing the oil pan? 3. I might have lost one of the t-bar snap rings, is this something I can buy somewhere other than the dealer? 4. Is the xterra transfer case shifter the same as the wd21 one? I would prefer to swap it before I lift the tranny up into the truck

Bought a tranny filter kit for it...

When you put it back together yours distributor might be off on the timing. Maybe they moved it to compensate.

Looks good dude, remember to bench bleed the MC before you install it, or else you'll be bleeding it on the truck forever.

I paid 16 for the pin here, inflated ottawa prices of course.

Replace it, because if you re set the tension on it after taking it off, from what I understand the belt stretches slightly over time, you increase the risk of it snapping. For a 30 dollar part, to me, it isn't worth the risk.

Wouldn't the drivers side be the longest? Since the brake lines run along the passenger side frame...Although I have bled it both ways and it didn't make any difference.

On mine that screw makes no difference and when you unplug the iacv sub harness like the fsm says to, the rpms drop to like 250. Sorry to thread jack but we might have the same issue lol.