adamzan

If you get some fans out of a maxima or altima they are almost a direct drop in other than the wiring Ive heard.

Here engines at the u pull yard are only 89.99! Very tempted to grab a vg33. But I've mainly seen the 3.5L r50s.

Sounds to me like a new or used trans is in order.

I have a cheap cardone shaft that will work fine at stock height but with my suspension lift causes a vibration that wasn't there before I put it in. Good thing I kept the stock ones.

There are aftermarket headlights for the wd21 that are plastic, and have a clear front with the beam pattern on the back, like the newer cars with halogen lights. You can also swap to hardbodie square lights, but you need to get a hardbody grille and corner lights.

3" BL with 31" tires

3+3 and 33's:

If you want to run big tires, get the 3".

Ok I checked those bearings and they are smooth and have no play. I think I found the problem. When I took off the passenger side hub, then took it for a drive, it did not vibrate in 4wd. So either that CV is binding/crappy or something is loose. I think it is the CV thought. It is a new cardone one from rockauto. The other side is a reman I bought locally... Time to see if rock auto will send me another.

Check your idler arm and centerlink as well. If you see any twisting or lateral play, they're toast. The steering box can be adjusted if that is the issue, too. There are a few posts on it around here, if you search around you'll find them, if you can't I'll post the links when I get home.

I only replace ones with torn boots, but if you have the money, replace both. Typically if one rips the other side isn't far behind lol. You could probably make it through the winter if it isn't making noise yet. A little shot of grease into the boot and some duct tape may do the trick. Keep in mind unless you have manual hubs, the CV shafts spin all the time on a 97. Regardless of whether you're in 4wd or not. If you get manual hubs, it will also give you 2-3mpg instantly.

I believe it is 92 and older that have the I beam type.

Have you checked your steering rack bushings? they could be allowing the rack to move, it is a common problem.

You can run one different tire on the front for as long as you want, but only if you do not use the 4wd, as the diff won't turn with the hubs unlocked. I have 2 different pairs on mine right now, but that is front to back, and is done all the time. I would try and at least get a pair that matches. Especially the same load range.

I'm having the same issue with a new cardone shaft.

Usually if the timing belt is off a tooth you will not be able to set the timing properly.

What do you mean by drive shaft bearing?

Since you shop at ct just buy the motomaster filter. Its just a fram painted red or white depending how long its been there.

Are they smooth with no vibrations, that is the issue I have. People are telling me it is the lift

Calmini has been selling the for years IIRC. I had a custom made one on my first pathy that a member here made me, and now I have the grandpaX one on my current pathy, looks exactly like the AC one. But you do definitely need this if you want the truck to ride right and not pull to the left constantly. It also affects making left turns.

I rotated the tires this morning before my friend came over, same thing happens Read some threads about the cvs. Guess I'll try running it with one hub locked at a time to try to isolate it. Just changed the joints a couple days ago, they are nice and smooth, no binding or play.

When I drove to florida with my new pathy it ran fine the whole way, The o2 @!*% the bed on the way down and I got real bad mileage. The CEL would come on sometimes, but go off when in traffic and speeding up and down. It would mainly come on during the long consistent drives (hour or more).

Maybe roll it over a few times with the fuel pump fuse out to circulate the oil a little? I see people bringing out classic cars out doing that around here. No idea if it does anything though.

Just put new shocks in a couple weeks ago, did tension rods last year as well. I only seem to have the problem when the front parts of the 4x4 are turning.

Yep, I have new upper ball joints, new idler arm bushings, fresh lube and tight bearings. Alignment is not perfect but it doesn't pull. I did the universals myself the other day, they seem good, no play or binding of any kind. Front end is nice and tight. The only thing I notice is the vibe. Its a very sharp vibration, not like the shake of a wheel out of balance, feels like driving on those rumble strips on the side of the highway. I can feel it in the steering wheel only. Can I drive with one hub unlocked to rule out cv shafts one at a time?