adamzan

In the past couple weeks I have replaced: CV axles 4 Shocks (rancho) rear brakes rear sway bar links and bushings gas tank front brake line spark plugs (twice, long story), cap, rotor, wires power steering hose and fluid 2 front tires some other things i am forgetting I also installed my pillar mounted gauge pod and wired in my trans temp and volt gauges. Still need to acquire a 3rd gauge. Still need to do: ARB Hella lights Skidplates - I have no idea how to install these, I bought them used. But those can wait till I get back from the fall colours run this weekend.

Even the 96-2000 r50 manual tranny should swap in, as it is the same, and even has the filler plug in the right spot.

^ Just proves you don't always need a huge diesel pickup truck to tow everything like many people think.

Yes, and I don't know. My old wd21 had a heated drivers seat, but not passenger.

Which bolts broke? I only broke one but used and impact to slowly go at it. If thr rear bolts broke you could probably cut the captive nuts off and use regular nuts.

Go here; http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Hardbody/ and download the 1989 manual. It will have the diagrams you need. It is for the pickup, but the pathfinder is the same.

I have had 2 High mileage pathfinders before this one and have never had that steering wheel problem. I guess you guys just turn a lot LOL. ahardbody, I just might take you up on that lock offer, might see what a local place says first, but rather throw a member a few bucks anyway. I know I have a third key around somewhere.

Yep, the lock cylinder won't even turn. I took the panel off and all the pieces are there and nothing is broken. I think it is just seized. Been soaking it with PB for ages.

Check your room lamp fuse.

Here are a couple threads on the subject that should help: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/24612-how-to-bypass-factory-amps-in-your-clarion-equipped-nissan/?hl=bypass http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/35837-how-to-bypass-the-factory-amps-step-by-step/?hl=%2Bhow+%2Bamp+%2Bbypass

I have headers and 2.5 inch pipe. I went from the stock pipes to the 2.5 a while after I did the headers and honestly noticed no difference lol.

That's not that bad . I was expecting a lot higher!

When was the last time it had a tune up.

Yup and I'm pretty sure mine is screwed up or dirty. Guess ill look into it when I do the valve cover gasket.

Yep, it will work fine.

Luckily for you r50 guys the tranny is easier to remove. You could save some labor costs by removing it yourself if you have thr time/place/tools. All you really need are long extensions and a good jack.

Since you have the head off, if you can't find someone to weld it up for you, you could find a good used head from a junkyard or something. I had morons screw up my exhaust studs too but luckily they didn't hit the water jacket and was able to helicoil it.

BFG AT in 33x10.50 would be a great tire for you.

You guys have way more patience than me, I can do most things including electrical, but sometimes small parts like that drive me crazy. I did wish my drivers lock cylinder worked, hate unlocking from the pass side all the time lol.

I had one snap on me. And this is on my second and current truck so I should have known better. The steering wheel wobbled and I had to limp it home from work at 50kmh

It screws on, it can be real tight taking it off for the first time.

I just bought everything from nissan to do the job. It ended up being like 170 dollars but it was done and good to go for another 20 years.

When I bought a moog drag link it was a 555 same with tie rods. Upon returning some parts for warranty they gave me TRW brand and said it would still be warrantied. I was kinda surprised to see 555 on those as well. Never had a problem with quality. I was off-road a lot at the time so the drag links would wear out yearly lol.

Yea local glass places are always cheaper. I paid 300 all in for mine, they even fixed the minor rust they found under it. I got the antenna windshield with the tint strip at the top. They used a pilkington or ppg glass, can't remember.

Ok here is what I ended up with After practicing with the flare tool: The repair: Just waiting on a new flex hose and I'll tighten everything and bleed the brakes. Sorry for the fuzzy pictures but I'm not bringing my good camera into the garage to get greasy.