adamzan

Its stock. And yea you drain the pan that way. Always a good idea if you never done it.

You can get new oem style bushings on rockauto pretty cheap and press them in with a vice. I went that route.

I would look into your o2 sensor if you haven't. Since you say it has great power I highly doubt compression is an issue. If it was you would be noticing power loss.

87 would have a speedo cable not a vss.

Check out car-part.com

I've changed that hose with everything in place. It was a pain but it only took me about an hour.

I've owned both. My first truck I had for 5 years has drums and now I have a 4 wheel disc truck. Honestly I notice no difference. The drum one actually had a better pedal feel.

If its fine cold and bad warm its most likely a sensor. I'd check the coolant temp sensor.

Same I've never seen one without it!

Less talk more action. Get a battery and stop making excuses. You can get used ones from the junkyard for cheap or on craigslist. Grab oil n filters from the store. Don't worry about the tires and tranny fluid yet. Get it running and speed screw some metal over those holes to pass inspection. No offense but every time you post its some sob story. The brakes will clear themselves of rust after driving. You can use lysol to clean the interior and rent or borrow a carpet cleaner for the seats. I'm not trying to be mean but all I see is "I need to do this, but..." you say its raining but its in a garage? I don't get it

The xterra hood is raised in the middle.

That is the abs module. Not the ecu.

In north America: 96-2000 is VG33. 2001-2004 is VQ35.

How is the tow hook useless. It is plenty strong. Way stronger than the loops you suggest putting shackles through.

The temp sensor would definitely affect the idle. My friend had one go bad on a jetta and it would buck and not stay running. I would like to add that it us a very cheap part and easy to change.

Straight from the service manual:

I used the same thing...No problems. It even said compatible with nissanmatic on the bottle.

Always good to have spare parts. I keep a spare inner/outer tie rod assembly when I go wheeling.

Maybe the mechanic thinks the idler arm is just bolted to the center link. How it works is the center link has a ball joint that bolts to the tapered hole in the idler arm. So you don't just change the bolt you change the whole center link. If the bearings are loose enough it could cause a pull...Bad idler arm will make it wander and cause the tires to wear funny. In my experience I would replace the idler arm and the center link at the same time, because (at least on my rig) if the arm was loose it took out the CL or vice versa in a very short period of time. (I'm talking like 2 months of driving)

Can you get the sound on video? Sounds like that mechanic is an idiot.

I think the mistake was jamming the bolt in with an impact gun without cleaning up the thread with s tap first. Hopefully the new bolt isn't ruined.

Bringing this back up. Anyone set this up yet?

The only time my truck sputtered and ran rich enough to emit black smoke was when the 02 sensor died. And I did not get a code.

I have honestly never broken anything while offroad. The only thing I did do was not pay attention while driving through some tall grass and smash my bumper and fender in... I got stuck more once my truck was lifted and had better tires because I got cocky and thought it could go anywhere. To be totally honest, I had the most fun with my pathy when it was stock

I have just the fender antenna on mine and my fm reception is poor even with an aftermarket head unit. My old rig with both antenna was much better.