adamzan

I have manual hubs, so I don't have to back up to disengage the wheels. The hubs were lubed a couple months ago and are easy to lock in. I'll try and word it better, say I throw it in 4hi, the dash light comes on, you can feel that it is engaged. Then while driving I try and throw it back in 2hi, the green light stays on and I can feel that it is still driving the front wheels (testing on a gravel road). If I stop, put it in reverse and give it a quick shot of throttle, it will disconnect... Sometimes I can get it to turn off by going to N and back to drive. Have you guys had any problems with aftermarket CV shafts causing a vibe? The old ones were original and it rode smooth as glass. Hopefully that is more clear!

So I just replaced in the last while both front cv joints. I notice now I get a vibration on acceleration in 4wd. If I put it back to 2wd and leave the hubs locked it vibrates slightly (feels like driving on rumble strips) between 35-55 mph (it seemed to smooth out after that but I didn't go past 60). Someone told me it is the suspension lift but it was fine before, and it is barely cranked up, probably an inch over stock. I hadn't used the 4wd in a while and thought may be the front u-joints needed some service. They were stiff in one direction so I replaced them and I didn't really notice any difference. Another thing I noticed is that the 4wd will not disengage unless I stop and throw it in reverse, and move about a foot. Then the light will go off and it will be in 2hi. I used to be able to in and out of 4hi with no issues....I checked the t-case fluid it is full and clean, changed last year. Thanks in advance. Really irritating to drive it this way and I don't want to mess something up. Btw all is well in 2hi with the hubs unlocked. No unusual noises either.

Is your distributor cap in good shape? Has it ever been replaced? They are pretty cheap a long with the rotor, something like 20 bucks for the set.

http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Pathfinder/1994_Pathfinder/fa.pdf Page 44 will have all you need. Make sure the nut is torqued on properly. I had mine back off once!

A trip. But last time I was on that coast I was there for a month One of my friends moved out there last year. When I go I'll let you know. I have one of those little yellow bottle torches, but scary using it right near the fuel lines lol.

Yep, those should be inspected whenver the front tires are off, hell, you don't even need to take the tires off! Looks like you also have a substantial oil leak.

Make sure they are on all the way and if they are take them back. Probably a defective set.

I'm pretty sure dududuckling has a 35" spare on his r50.

If they look under the hood for all the components, that could be an issue. Also you'll have an engine light on all the time.

Time for new plug wires! Or if they are new make sure they are on properly.

Well I may be driving out there in the not so distant future... I have a set of spacers that someone on here gave me a while ago. I was going to install them but I am kind of paranoid about adding something like that. I have my set of UCA's from 4x4 parts that I bought on here to install, maybe I should just be happy with that lol. Damn passenger side t-bar is seized to the adjuster and keeps coming out of the LCA when I try to remove it.

Seeing how most people drive these days (quick starts, passing everyone who isn't doing 20 over, always in a rush speeding like crazy) I can totally see why most people wouldn't get good mileage. Not saying any of you are like that, just how I observe people driving on a day to day basis around me. I do what B said, get it up to speed, set the CC, and let it do its thing.

Wanna do mine now

That gap is slightly out of spec but it isn't causing your issue. Plug gap changes gradually.

Considering it is a 2wd, I don't think CV's are the problem

^ good post. If it is fine when you first start it, and then starts acting up, it is most likely a sensor of some kind. Either the o2 or the coolant temp sensor. The ecu doesn't use the input until the temp gets to a certain point.

Oh come on. It wasn't that bad!

Yea the float was on. It was pretty big I don't think it even fits thru the hole

If you bang on the starter and then try it will it start immediately? Parts store rebuilt starters have been known to be crap if that is what you have. I can't remember which relay is the starter one. It is different for the auto and manual trucks, though. I would look at the neutral safety relay. According to the FSM it is the one closest to the fender on the drivers side. Three relays beside the washer fluid bottle.

My original 94 tank had no "crud" in it at all. The screen on the end of the fuel pump was pretty clean, the only thing I found on it were what looked like dog hairs The tank also had this big plastic thing floating in it. No idea what it was for, didn't put it in the new tank.

I have a pathy cd changer, it is a sony 10 disc unit that mounts in the cargo area. But that looks like the same plug for my satellite radio..

Screw that make them throw new fenders lights and what not on it and fix everything for free.

I think the fuse is just not labeled that great.

Took a shop 4 hours to do mine. The guy said my truck killed him lol. It can be done just tell them you lost all the shims like i did so they have no choice but to do it.

Did you check all the fuses and make sure you plugged anything you may have disconnected back in? Start with the simple stuff. Some of the fuses are labeled retardedly like the meter fuse and the tail lamp one affect the dash lights.