adamzan

My old truck weeped from there, but my new rig doesn't and I don't see a plug.

Just thought of this thread tonight. Here are a couple pics. Digital trips with supposed outside temp that doesn't work: And the lighted key ring in action. Only comes on with the drivers door:

Put a couple washers under the striker for the rear hatch. Common problem. There was never any rubber on the hatch striker afaik.

Yeah there is a light there. It's not to to hard to change but you have to pull the console to get the shifter base off.

There are grease channels in the bushings. I have a spare set that came with the enhancement package from AC. Mine has a bolt as well. I removed it and put a zerk in then put the bolt back after lubing.

I have a new (to me) truck so things have changed a bit, so I'm bumping this thread. FluidsEngine Oil - Valvoline Conventional 5w30 (Going to switch to Synpower on next change) Coolant - Canadian Tire brand regular "green" mixed 60/40 (not long life) ATF - Amsoil ATF MTF - N/A Brake Fluid - Unknown (Plan to replace with Napa DOT3) Power Steering Fluid - Cheap autozone ATF that I put in when I was in Florida. Front Diff - Petro-Canada Brand 80w90 Rear Diff - Motomaster Synthetic 80w90 (For LSD) Transfer Case - Amsoil ATF FiltersOil Filter - Either Bosch, quaker state, or purolater. Depends on availability. Air Filter - Motomaster In-Cabin Air Filter - N/A Fuel Filter - Fram ATF Filter - PO says it was from NAPA, so probably a wix. Change intervalsFluidsEngine Oil - Every 5-6k (km) Coolant - Every 2 years ATF - Every 40k or year. (Year usually comes first) MTF - N/A Brake Fluid - Every time I change the pads. Will be doing this come spring. Power Steering Fluid - I've only done it once so far, in Florida, it fixed my moaning pump. Front Diff - Once a year, but not if I haven't wheeled or used the 4x4 much Rear Diff - Once a year, depending on wheeling time Transfer Case - Same as rear diff FiltersOil Filter - Every oil change Air Filter - When it looks dirty In-Cabin Air Filter - N/A Fuel Filter - Every other year, I do it just before the emissions test usually ATF Filter - Its been about 40k, I will probably inspect it next time I change the fluid I plan on converting the diffs to all the same (more than likely the motomaster, as it is a shell product). This is just what is in there now.

What about the fact that the vq burns more oil than gas after a certain mileage.

I have a good excuse, it's been cold and blizzard like here. And I'm still recovering from a crohns flare.

Dude I feel sorry for you, I run the same tires, and the only way I get that bad of mileage is 100% city driving and idling a lot because it is very cold here. I was routinely able to get 20mpg on highway trips out of my fathers old 2000 r50 (5 speed). My word of advice on o2 sensors, they can be bad and not make the SES light come on, can just be bad enough to make your mileage ******. I would not use universal o2 sensors. Just another place for wiring to muck up.

Just bleed it in the order the FSM says. Which includes the ABS actuator on the passenger side frame rail.

Mine rattles with a 31" spare (on a lego). My solution was to put a stock size spare on for now lol.

I finally got around to trying out my guages in the pod. It is quite a tight fit. They will probably stay in there without the little bracket thing. Now just to get around to installing all this

What I did was adjusted it until there was slight drag on the drum, and then backed it off 1 or 2 clicks on the wheel. This is how I was shown to do it. I don't know if it is the right way, but it did work for me. Save the 40 dollars, get a can of brake cleaner and some brake lube and DIY! Then you'll have new skill.

Looks like the seals are about 3 dollars each on courtesy parts. I'd rather have a refreshed oem one than parts store junk. http://www.courtesyparts.com/pathfinder-parts-wd21-1987-1995/genuine-nissan-parts/brake/460-brake-master-cylinder/-c-5572_5573_5674_5678.html

I have helped someone change these before. You do need to press the backing plates off, any competent shop should be able to do this. I would pull the shafts (4 bolts and the brake line) and take them somewhere.

It is a hell of a lot easier on your transmission when towing as well.

I once towed a wd21 (according to the scales it weighs around 4k lbs) with a uhaul car trailer (they say it ways 2210 I believe). I was using my fathers 2000 5 speed vg33 r50. I did not know at the time that the manuals had a lesser capacity, being as I was new to towing and the guy at uhaul thought we were towing a jetta (that was what we had originally rented the trailer for). It pulled great and I kept it in 4th most of the time as I didn't go over 80kmh much. Braking seemed fine although the trailer claimed it had hydraulic surge brakes so that may have helped.

I'd use a Bosch o2. They make the nissan ones.

<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote'data-author="stalker" data-cid="652597" data-time="1359422870"><p> Maybe I am just being a little harsh about all this...but for years we have tried to accomplish numbers like these and how everyone says it is impossible...maybe that is why I have a hard time believing what he has done.? <br /> If everything is true then as a member of NPORA please, please find out more info for your fellow Pathy owners so we can also benefit from your research and mods.<br /> Thanks,</p></blockquote> You are not being harsh. You are being realistic

Well if the sensor was bad and the truck was running rich, I think that would be your cause.

I am not a fan of wix filters, even though I know they have a great reputation. I used one (napa gold) on my wd21, and for that entire oil change interval the oil pressure took noticably longer to come up and the lifters ticked on nearly every startup. Changed it with another filter (don't remember the brand) and it was fine again. Same oil used both times.

Those look great, B. I have the same volt meter to install. Would you mind sharing the model of the oil pressure gauge you have? I really didn't want to drill holes in my truck but I guess it wouldn't impede putting the stock trim back on if I decided to sell the vehicle.

Maybe you should research here from people who've actually installed them on these vehicles...

Recieved mine too. Looks good to me.

You "might" be able to pass without an egr. I passed with a non functioning one here in ontario. Barely, but it passed!