adamzan

I've had this on my GPS for a while, love it. All my friends look at it and say "only you would do that"

The drain for your evaporator is clogged. Easy fix. Shoot some compressed air or stick a coat hanger up the pipe to clear it. You'll see the hose under the truck near the firewall.

Jack up one side and put a pry bar under the tire and try to pry up. You will feel any play. Before jumping to replacing the steering box, try adjusting it. Check out this link. http://beergarage.com/PathSteerGear.aspx

You can get the flares/mudflaps from a pathfinder that had them, and mount those, they should bolt right up.

The taillights are held on by three 8 or 10mm nuts, look in where you change the bulbs and you will see. For the glass I think you can get a cheap glass removal kit. I heard you could use piano wire to saw the urethane that holds the windows in.

It doesn't look that thick to me and I'm pretty sure mine is bent to crap .

That link shows a 1 quart bottle. A quart is roughly a litre. If you bought what is in that link I think you will be ok. According to Google 3 quarts is 6 pints.

H233B

Fwiw mine is a 94 se the tranny has been changed. It had 31s stock and my speedometer is 1kmh off some days and perfect the next. I don't trust the gps all the time.

No, that is the cruise control.

My vote is for the steering box, or the alignment just wasn't done right. When you adjust it you're not supposed to turn the screw more than 1/8 turn at a time before you try it out again. Small increments are key. If you overtightened it you could have damaged it and that could be part of the issue. As for the alignment, did they set the camber/caster as well or just the toe. Your caster could be out causing the wandering, or the toe wasn't set right. It needs to be 3-5mm of toe-in according to the fsm. The shop I had mine at set it at 1/16" (they measured in inches) and it wandered. There is a procedure in the fsm for measuring the steering box play. And you do it from the drivers seat, looks really easy.

I want to say MAF wiring at the connector.

Sadly I have seen frames even worse than that still being driven by unknowing people. I bet the floor is rotten right around the body mounts as well.

Jeez, are you leaking oil? That is a lot to have to add. I don't have to add any in between oil changes.

Gear oil was called for in the older pathfinders (2 doors) and the newer ones say ATF for the transfer case. I have no idea why, but people on here have used both with no issue. I use ATF in mine and have 0 issues. For motor oil I think that unless you are leaking or losing oil somehow you should stick with either conventional or synthetic. With how little mileage yours sees I would just use castrol GTX (if you want to stick with castrol). For the manual transmission you want to make sure it is GL-4 only, not a GL-5 "but is compatible with GL-4" The rear hatch sensor is an easy fix. A couple of washers under the striker for the latch.

I have a similar spot on mine, and I am going to take the windshield out because I know there will be more underneath. It looks like someone has put some sealer in there on yours where a chunk of the weatherstrip is missing. Maybe they were trying to stop leaks.

Basically the front end shuddered with the 4wd on (I have the stock auto hubs) and when you gunned it, it really shuddered! Enough that you could visibly see the steering wheel hop up and down.

If you gun it while in 2nd does the shudder get a whole lot worse? Maybe you have bad front driveshaft u-joints. I had this happen to me just so happened to notice it after I changed the cv axles.

Jeez I wish I could get ANYTHING done on my vehicle for 30 dollars these days...A few places I've talked to charge an hour for aiming and an hour labour here is anywhere from 75-100.

If mine was revving that high I'd be going over 90mph lol.

I don't think I've ever changed a crush washer on mine and it never leaks.

I would change it. Leaking oil ruins people's driveways and it will ruin your clutch. Mine was leaking and by the time I got around to fixing it, it would lose a liter of oil every 1500 miles. I was also worried about it gushing all the oil out. I don't know if this is possible or not. I drove it for about 6 months with it leaking.

I believe the stock pads are Akebono.

Also I forgot to mention if you have a speed sensor code, that could be affecting your cruise. I had this issue as well, on my old pathy. You don't need to remove the switch to test it, just unplug the plug, and make contact with your multimeter. Press and release the pedal and see what happens. X2 on that vacuum hose. Although on my old rig (it had almost everything wrong with the cruise) all lights would come on when the hose was bad, it would just set and then start losing speed.

Which light comes on? The one on the master switch below the vent or the "cruise" light on the dash. If you only get the light on the master switch I would check the continuity of the brake pedal switch for the cruise, mine was failed and even though the rubber pad was there it didn't matter because the switch was broken. If the "cruise" light near the speedo comes on when you press the SET button. I would look into the vacuum pump for the cruise. There is a test procedure where you apply voltage across the terminals in the service manual.