adamzan

I bought a new switch for mine, it was about 10 dollars, and it stopped the leak.

Once they start squeaking like that they should be replaced. It is past the point where lube will help.

I have an auto and I can take out in about ten minutes! Unbolt the wires and it just pulls out the front. You just need to turn it to clear the motor mount. Just be careful of the wire that goes to the battery it could be frayed at the end like mine was.

Look in the wheel well above the steering box area you should be able to reach the two bolts for the bumper bracket. Its actually easy ti remove the bumper this way. I would take a pic of mine but I have a body lift so it doesn't exactly look stock any more lol. Too bad you're not closer I have a mint black bumper with mounts and two spare fenders!

There are no grease zerks on the stock ball joints.

I have had that happen so many times. But I find that shot of fluid film or something on the little plastic thing that moves to open the door works great. I have never had a problem starting here, and we've had -35 a few times this winter. One problem I did have was that oil started pissing out of where the oil filter is, because the seal had shrunk in the cold, after a couple minutes it stopped! Must have lost at least half a litre!

You can do it in your driveway with hand tools. I have done them on an r50 before and it is actually fairly simple. You could probably still drive it just be careful...Do it yourself and save 300. If it were me I would do both sides at the same time, they usually fail around the same time.

I believe he is referring to the 2 grooves the one near the end for manual hubs and the one closer to the bearing locknut that is used for the other hubs.

I would just find a JY bumper and fender, and leave yours till you replace it. You can actually get some pretty good results with matching paint and some clear coat. Then again I couldn't stand driving around with a smashed up front end so that's just my 2 cents. Today I prayed my fan clutch would not fly off while I towed my friend's 02 maxima to it's new home.

Definitely not normal. I have never had a clunk, that wasn't caused by something loose. Most likely a sway bar link, bad tension rod bushings, or sway bar bushings.

I see them all the time around here. And I see a few post-facelift r50s with them too...They are always silver or black though lol.

You shouldn't have to split the intake to put the hose back on, I changed my vacuum hoses recently and was able to just swap the new one on. if you get a small mirror you should be able to see the nipple it goes on. Also the FSM says it should have 43psi with the vacuum unplugged. Have you changed the fuel filter?

Since you say it will fire on starting fluid could it be maybe the fuel pump is weak when it is hot. I know you said the pressure is good. But since you have a parts car swapping the pumps couldn't hurt. Here are the specs for the fuel pressure and other things you might want to check. Sorry for the small font but I wanted to fit it in on one page. These are taken from the service manual EC section.

34 for would be the knock sensor. I would fix the other problems first as this code can be thrown by having other things wrong. The o2 sensor is easy, I would do that first, clear the computer, and see if any of them come back. The EGR could be as simple as a missing/cracked/leaking vacuum hose. I would recommend changing all the vacuum lines anyway since it is cheap and these trucks are 20 years old now and the rubber is starting to age.

The cheapest place I found them was 4wheelparts when they had a by 3 get one free deal.

Which coolant sensor did you change? There are 2. One is for the gauge (1 prong with a spade connector) and the other is the one that affects how it runs, which is a 2 prong one with a yellow connector. They are right beside each other to the left of the distributor. Just a thought.

That is pretty sweet, how much did that cost? I'd love one.

What he said ^. I have the rancho shocks and love them. Definitely worth the few extra dollars. It wasn't even that much and they are lifetime warranty...

It should bolt right up.

Once you get the timing belt off, all you need to do to change the crank seal is remove the crank gear the timing belt rides on. The seal is in behind there. I think they want you to remove the oil pan to replace the oil pump gasket, which is not necessary in your case. I just did mine this fall. Ruined a relatively new timing belt too...

What this guys said. I had to do this on my mothers maxima, and my fathers '11 xterra is now doing the same thing. My friend with an 08 xterra had the same issue and a coolant flush fixed it.

All I can say is rock auto sells a complete one for 55 dollars and it doesn't seem to be that common a problem around here.

Some people just feel the need to justify why something breaks. Usually it is just "@!*% happens" lol.

Are you rebuilding your old transmission or replacing it? When I changed mine I just used the t case that came with the new trans.

That link bushing test only tells you if the lower ones are bad. You need to crawl underneath to see if the uppers are loose