adamzan

I will do that. I assume there is some kind of spec in the fsm. Hopefully I don't have to take all that apart.... I tried that today and it worked! Just gotta get someone to watch it now... Yes it happens probably 90% of the time. Doesn't seem to do it when I put it in reverse though. I'll do that too, I don't think the t-case is an issue as it started in the fall, then my tranny died. I replaced the trans and t-case at the same time so the case is new and it still does it. I'll post up what I find.

The tranny mount looks good, no cracks and it doesn't move when I push up on the trans...I did use the one that came with the xterra. I thought maybe my old one was bad so I used the one that came with the new tranny. It is the same as the old pathy one. I will have a second look at the rear arms. Maybe just change the bushings anyways, they are 20 years old.

As the title states I'm having thunk noise when I take off, or when I let off the brakes after coming to a stop, it feels like something is loose. At first I figured, bad u joints. So I grabbed the drive shaft and found no play (I also checked them when I had the shaft off for the tranny swap). Then I checked the trailing arms, I could move them a tad, but I was really trying hard, but they didn't seem that loose. I also rocked the truck back and forth while it was in park and the pinion angle changes slightly (and I mean its hardly noticeable). I am also getting a vibration in the rear end around 50mph. I thought it was the transmission, but then after the xterra swap it was still there. Strange thing is, when it was really cold, it was perfectly fine, which made me forget about it for most of the winter... Anyone ever had this before?

Not really. Most stores still have things in stock, or can get them same day. I agree with you on nissan oem parts, though. My friend likes mk2 vw's, now those are hard to find parts for.

It probably is the hubs. Either sticking or the two brake plates are worn down. I had this problem on my old one. I threw on a set of good used pieces and never had an issue again. If it gets cold where you live, don't use a thick grease or they will not work properly. The grease nissan used was good, but I just used fluid film to lube my hubs.

Actually 5w30 is the recommended oil for "all temperatures". I've used lucas and it didn't do anything.

I did the Xterra trans swap. I used one from a 2002. the 2001-2004 are apparently the HD ones. The supercharged are even more strong but you need the flexplate from the engine with the SC. The sub harness from the wd21 snaps right in, all you really need is some rubber hose for the vent lines. I didn't because the place I bought mine from gave me everything. I paid about 500 for my trans and transfer case. I got a low mileage one that was pulled for me with a warranty. The transfer case is the same as well. The shifter may be different in height but I have a body lift so it actually worked better for me. As for your original question. Try some lucas trans fix. It may work, it may not but couldn't hurt.

You don't have a center link, that is a 95 and older thing.

I know I'm probably going to get raged on for this, but you should replace rotors in pairs. Anyway, did you make sure you lubed where the pads slide on the caliper housing? Also what pads did you use? Some just make more noise than others. Mine do pretty much the same thing right now, pisses me off lol.

You might have a bent wheel or 2. Is there another set of wheels you could try? Or maybe rotate the spare into the mix.

I have the pacesetters and they do have the EGR port on them. I also have emissions testing here and it passes perfectly (two times so far) with the headers and my horribly pieced together exhaust that goes after them lol.

Nothing, they come with a Y pipe that bolts right up to the stock intermediate pipe.

Its just a stud, they may look bad but they are probably fine underneath. Just use some heat and pb blaster.

I think you need to drive it more. My grandfather has trouble with his 305 firebird every time because he doesn't drive it much. My pathfinder passes easily. Though I drive it almost every day.

You need to put grease or something on the lip that rides on the shaft. Its so the seal doesn't burn out on first startup.

The o2 sensors actually make a huge difference in how it runs....

Defective alternator. It happens sometimes.

Remove the plug and put some teflon tape on there. Those valve cover gaskets don't look that bad. Try tightening the screws. Could be bad at the back side of the engine like mine were.

For the parking brake you can make some extensions for where they bolt to the body under the truck.

The timing should be 15 not 14.

You can change it without removing the retainer but it is a lot harder. Plus there js a gasket for the retainer.

If shims fell out the bolt would no longer be tight.

Up here it is harder to find the V-power ones. The local stores I buy this stuff from (Canadian tire) and partsource only stock the g-power ones and the more expensive platinum ones. I have to drive across the city to get v-powers...Cheaper to order on rock auto and sit on my ass and wait! lol. I pulled ACdelco plugs out of my current pathy when I went to change them....It actually ran so well I was tempted to buy another set of those!

I had a leak at the Y pipe just before the o2 sensor. I fixed it and it actually feels like it has less power lol.

I have used the G power, and the V power (what the pathy came with oem) and didn't really notice a difference. I don't leave my plugs in till it misfires so I couldn't tell you how long each lasted.