adamzan

Just for the record, the cruise does NOT run off the engine vacuum, regardless of what anyone tells you. It has it's own little vacuum pump. The most common things to stop the cruise on these trucks seems to be the steering wheel contacts (94-95) and the brake pedal switches.

It sounds like a bad vss to me. It may be telling the ecu that you're spinning the tires and that is what throws it into the "stuck in 3rd gear" limp mode.

Wish these had been around sooner before I bought the 3" AC springs! It would be nice to have lift but keep the stock cushy spring rate.

I don't understand how in 2014, when pretty much all manufacturers use metric, metric hardware is still not commonly available. I mean most "hardware" stores around here only carry the crappy 8.8 metric hardware which is basically grade 5 SAE.

I have done it on an r50 wd21 and an xterra. The r50 was the hardest because of the ac line in the way and the retarded power steering belt tensioner position.

I had that switch fail too. You can still use the cruise without it, as the brake light switch is a failsafe and deactivates the cruse control as well. I honestly never got around to changing it on my old pathy.

Hit it as hard as you can in between the studs. It'll break loose.

If you have the money, go for the nissan parts. Like you said they obviously are the best thing for the truck. I personally have used nissan and gates parts without any problems. The gates timing belt kit would save you a bit of coin. Other than the timing belt and pump I would change the cam/crank seals, thermostat, and the bypass hose. I would set a weekend aside to do it, just in case any problems arise. Also buy some new coolant. Don't re use the old @!*%.

I think only the 94-95's have it. My 93 SE didn't have a light.

If the bumper is there, try unplugging the cruise brake pedal switch and jumping the plug with wire. Mine was broken and that fixed it. Apparently the brake light one also cancels the cruise (a failsafe I guess) so I never replaced the switch.

Mine has both hoses at the top.

It's when the starter wire hits something that is bare metal, as it is a direct link to the battery.

It's definitely the alignment if you didn't get one done. I do the tape measure alignment on mine and it drives fine, just takes like 3 hours of dicking with it.

Buy the ac 3" lifr springs. That's what I have they're great.

If you run the stock rims they will not rub.

There should be a plug further up the wire for the switch.

To me it sounds like you have a short in either the switch at the t-case, or in the harness somewhere that triggers the 4x4 light. I would start at the t-case switch, its on the side of the case, not too hard to reach.

Bad spark plugs and a misfire will cause it to not burn properly, and you'll fail the emissions test. Cleaning the MAF never hurts, but I doubt it is your problem. I think you are getting ahead of yourself, and should just start with the tune up items first. Or at least take a plug out and have a look at it. The colour of the plugs will tell you what is going as well. The post cat o2 sensors are there purely to tell the computer if the cats are working properly.

Well p0300 is not cylinder 1 misfire, its random/multiple cylinder misfire. If you have the original spark plugs at 260k, I would seriously start there. The knock sensor code is probably coming up because it is running poorly. I would start with some basic maintenance like the plugs, wires, cap and rotor. Also do not wait too long for the timing bet because if it breaks or slips you're looking at bent valves.

On a really hot day mine won't cycle at idle, but it will driving on the highway. You should get a set of gauges on both sides and check the pressures.

People tell me pretty much this whole album suits mine: I did have it on cassette when I still had the tape player in there.

Try DOM 16 it is apparently like por15 but much cheaper. Apparently canadian made too. You can get it at napa.

The tire carriers are pretty strong. I've sat on mine with it open and it is perfect still.

It makes the shifts slip. Silverton and I both had this problem. When I swapped in the xterra auto, I used regular dex3

That's not really that bad for an MT tire that is almost a 32". My 31" bfg AT's took almost that much.