adamzan

Maybe yours is like my 94. Mine has a "dinger" for the key in and light reminder, but when you turn it on it beeps for the seatbelt warning. My 95 just beeps for everything. Have you tested the relay yet? Maybe I could take a look at mine and see what it's supposed to do, where is it, exactly?

This is not the place to cheap out...If you don't have the money to fix it right, just save up.

You should probably replace those original looking spark plug wires

Front shocks are the same size regardless of whether it's lifted or not, so you can get whatever you want. I personally have the rancho rs5000 and like them. Firm ride but not too jarring. For the rear I'm not sure if they would bottom out or not but you could always buy them and only install the fronts for now and then install the rears when you get some new springs, or spacers.

The compressor won't seize. My a/c was probably empty for 10 years before I got it (sat in a garage for years), and I replaced the dryer and the leaking line, plus all the o-rings and it works great. As for removing the charge from the parts pathy, You could loosen one of the fittings with a wrench until it starts to hiss out, but johnny law would prefer it if you take it somewhere to get evacuated (obviously not realistic with a parts truck). Also, if you have a body lift, that line by the master cylinder tends to rub on the master cylinder after the lift and wear a hole in it. It happened to mine as well. I just bent the new one up slightly and I have no issues.

Can I come by and pick parts off it

I was under the impression that the 93 and older had the non painted ones. My 93 had those, but my 95 and 94 have black ones, just like my fathers 2000 r50, and friends 2003 Xterra.

Try priming the fuel system (turning the key to on, but not starting it, wait till the fuel pump kicks off) a few times. If the fuel pressure is lacking on startup this should build up more and allow it to start. That being said I would start with things it probably needs anyways. Fuel filters are cheap, tune up items like plugs/wires/cap/rotor. The distributor cap may look new but the little cap that goes over it and the wires hides it from dust and whatnot so it can be deceiving.

The rear ones for the WD are pretty expensive, and they're very similar to the R50 style. Glad you got it fixed, I hate rattles!

If there is play in the sway bar links, I would start there. They always rattle when they are loose.

According to rockauto, the rear shock part numbers for the 95 f-250, for rancho, are the rs5112 (26" length) and rs5116, which is funny, as the 5116 is the one they sell for lifted pathfinders....The monroe part # are 37039 for the 26" ones and the other is 37052. Hope that helps. There are a couple different monroe ones. The sensatracs work decent and and are lifetime warranty like ranchos. I don't know about the rest. FWIW I have the rs5112 on my 94, and they work pretty well. But I find that if you bounce it by hand, it bounces a few times then stiffens up. No idea if that is normal or not.

I for one am getting sick of these threads...

This is what I found in mine....Outside of it looked like a bolt, so I thought no big deal. Yea, what a **** that was.

Unplug the o2 sensor and see if it runs better. Make sure you unplug it while the truck is off though. Its on the tree of connectors on the passenger side.

Just put it in 4 low and give it some gas. That'll break it free.

How is it a hazard? The timing belt for any vg after 94 up (to 04 in the xterra) is exactly the same. Courtesy parts is a reputable dealer source and I have ordered from them a few times before rob was around.

You can throw the 00-04 xterra trans in there instead. Way stronger and doesn't fail like the old wd21 ones. But yes the 90 trans will fit. I don't think you need to swap the ecu unless you're going from the 3 speed to the 4 speed.

The cheapest way to fix this, is to take the original resonator if you still have it, and cut the flanges off both pipes, and clamp/weld a sleeve in place. The other option would be to get some pipe and just route it out the back like before, or you can replace the main muffler with a 2 in 1 out of your choice.

Unplug the o2 sensor and see if it drives better. It's in the tree of connectors on the passenger side. It has 3 wires. I find on these trucks they will go bad enough to make it run like crap but not so bad the ecu throws a code.

Unplug the o2 sensor and see if it drives better. It's in the tree of connectors on the passenger side. It has 3 wires. I find on these trucks they will go bad enough to make it run like crap but not so bad the ecu throws a code.

Have you changed the cabin air filter?

When I did ball joints on an r50 I only had to remove the snap ring so I could wiggle the cv.

Check to see if it has the tubular front control arms. If so, grab them.

The coils on that pathfinder don't look stock...I would take a good look at those instead.

Wow, hope you changed the inner bearing at the same time! Along with the races. Never seen that happen on a wd21 before, and I'm pretty sure mine has the original bearings.