adamzan

Check the small rubber hose that connects the fuel rails right by the distributor. Fire up the truck and you'll probably see it leak. I doubt that would cause your issue though.

The timing marks actually go 0 5 10 15 20 25 30. So you might have it slightly advanced. http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Pathfinder/1995_Pathfinder/ec.pdf Page 25 at the bottom.

Semi metallic seem to work the best for me. I have rear disc though. Maybe try some hawk hps pads? I hear they're great.

I believe the idlers are all the same. The moog one is just they're idea of a stronger idler arm for our trucks. Apparently they aren't that great and let the CL twist even more.

You can use a socket if you cut the brake line off right at the nut. And as for the block, just put some vice grips on the flex line.

Yeah, buy one of those pre made sections of line from the parts store. It's 3/16" with a double or inverted flare. And metric flare nut, I believe 10mm.

Unless you really overheated it or have been driving for thousands of miles with a misfire, your cat is probably fine. I second what nefarious said and unplug it, and take it for a drive. Also do the same with the coolant temperature sensor. One at a time though.

Pull plug wires off the distributor one at a time until you find one that doesn't make a difference.

Is his auto or manual? The automatic's turn lower rpms on the highway. Tire size also is a factory. Try having 33s and an auto like me. It runs at 2200 rpm at 70mph

I would do the exhaust in the coolant test first. Just to rule it out. Then you'll know where to go from there. The water pumps don't generally fail on these other than leaks and noise. I have seen them snap off before but that would cause the fan to become one with your radiator. Good luck, and keep us updated.

Maybe with your little XE sized tires. Mine is turning less than 3k rpm at 120km/h

The only reason I'm throwing out the head gasket idea is because I have a pathfinder sitting in my garage right now that did the exact same thing. I put a new radiator in it and it will drive for about 10 minutes and you'll lose heat and the temp flies up...Found exhaust gas in the coolant. Hope yours is easier to fix but just be careful. I have no oil or coolant mixing. There are a number of was it can fail, unfortunately.

If you can, try and find some 93-95 flares. They seem to be made differently and don't fade as much if at all. My 94s flares look new. My friend uses back to black on his vw trim. But I don't know how long it lasts.

Sounds like a head gasket blew to be honest. I'd be pressure testing that after you get a new radiator.

The way I tighten the bearing lock nut is after I have it all repacked is I tighten it just barely enough and then put the tire on. After that i tighten it just until I can't feel any play. But for new bearings you must follow the procedure in the fsm to seat the races. It also helps to have the tool. You can buy it for about 13 dollars.

You don't need anti seize. Even here in rusty Ontario I never have a problem with stuck lug nuts...I would do what B says and make sure your torque wrench is working right. I never used one for the longest time, only used the factory tire wrench and never had a problem. I only bought a torque wrench when I did my tranny swap last winter.

1996 model with vg30, that must be rare.

Wait till you hit 45k on your dura tracs.

They ride a little stiff but they soak up the bumps well.

I do have the ranchos...They're not soft at all.

The sensa tracs are okay but I find them too soft.

And anyone that tells you that it's just a screen and don't need to change it, walk away.

Unplug the o2 sensor and see if it drives better. If it does, replace it.

I always got the run around with mine even when it was stock.

Here's hoping it doesn't need much! I would like to get out of this project for under 500 bones if possible.