adamzan

You know even if the engine light is off, the code will still be stored in the computer.

The timing belt if it was never done.

If they are good, pull them. If not, you'll have to bite the bullet and get them at nissan. The bushings can be had aftermarket for a decent price. I think I paid 25 for a moog kit that did both sides. I wouldn't drive without it. I limped mine home with a broken one, and that was a scary drive.

The vw in my driveway is actually my brothers 04 golf. It has over 100k less than my pathy on it, but seems to require a lot more repairs and maintenance. They're fun to drive, but c'mon, I've changed both control arms, the flex pipe and the lower motor mount in the last month. There is always "something" wrong with it lol. My truck is like that too, but it is 20 years old, and it gets wheeled. Whats even more hilarious is on the mk4 they used a plastic water pump impeller. It exploded 2 days after he bought it from the dealer. Good thing too, I was just about to order parts for the timing belt job, but it got done for free. Had about 130k on it at the time (last summer).

Because we all need something reliable to drive (the pathy) while the VW is in the shop. All. The. Time.

I always tighten mine to 100 ft-lbs. I believe the spec is something like 85-105 iirc.

You could have it real tough like me and have to pry the frame horns apart to get your bumper to fit.... The upper mounts just locate the bumper like everyone says. The lower 4 bolt mounts (and on my ARB it also bolts to the tow truck tie down points) bear all the load. I actually just had those and no upper mounts in for a while, still plenty strong.

Having 33" tires I noticed a pretty big difference in how it handled hills. I mean it is still slow but the gas mileage is actually near stock now. I can get 17-19 if I baby it real well.

Haha I have an Mk4 in my driveway too,

That looks like someone already chopped a bit off of that. I remember the one on our r50 having a bit more length.

You shouldn't need a longer belt for the maxima alt swap...

Of the three pathfinders I've owned, I've never once stripped or otherwise damaged a lugnut, or the stud. No offense at all, but you must be doing something wrong. As for new lugnuts. I replaced 4 on my mothers maxima (they're the same as the pathy) with some cheap ones from Canadian tire after removing the factory wheel locks. I think they were the mcgard brand. They've been on there for a few years now and still look great. I only recently got a torque wrench while doing my transmission swap, and I never really had a problem snugging them down with the factory tire wrench.

Changed valve cover gaskets. Looks pretty good under there for a 20 year old engine.

Well the alternator and fan belt also drives the water pump. So you were getting no coolant circulation.

A guy more local to me made a bumper for his 98 r50 fit his 2003 Xterra, so I'm sure the ARB could be made to fit the r50. Custom mounts would be needed, obviously.

You can bend it straight, and then do the bearing race mod to keep the bushings centered. Basically you weld a bearing race of the appropriate size and weld it to the bracket. You have to grind off the existing cups, however.

The nissan kit is the best, but I would contact alkorahil on this board, he is a nissan parts guy and can get you a better price usually. If you want to go aftermarket gates is a great choice and that is what I have used in the past. I got mine from rock auto, though.

The kit came with 30" hoses, with NPT fittings at each end, I will probably just use those to keep it simple. But you have given me the idea to get a T for one end so I don't have to drill anything, which would be nice. I was looking today at lunchtime at PA, they have in the hydraulic section a ton of fittings. Found at T that has 2 female and 1 male 1/2" npt ports. I would still need a 1/2 to 1/8 or 1/4 (the autometer gauges come with an 1/8 to 1/4 bushing) adapter though. Just adding more places to leak That sandwich plate won't work on the wd21, as the vg30 uses a 3/4-16 thread for the oil filter (weird, right?). I'm sure there are others, though. AN looks real nice but damn, kind of out of my price range at this point

I want to add a pressure gauge to my rig, but i really, really, don't want to mess with the stock idiot light sender, as it is quite tight in there with the headers already. So I found my relocation kit I never installed on my old truck and noticed it has a spot in the centre where it looks like you could drill for a sender. I found a pic showing Tex's install and he did something similar. Just wanted some thoughts on it. I know I would have to drill it straight in a drill press and tap it to 1/8 NPT for the sender...

Apparently the roof is the best place for the antenna, because the body of the truck doesn't interfere, but i hate mine up there as well, it hits everything! I like those KC lights, may look into a set, my hellas have seen better days.

Should have added that part about the front shocks yea. The F-250 shocks are a great option. If I had known about them at the time I would have probably sprung for those.

Since I see you live in alberta you probably have a crappy tire near by. I changed my gear oil with some motomaster 80w90 and added a tube of CRC posi-trac for the LSD. Works great for me and doesn't cost that much. I actually had water in the rear end and noticed the LSD starting to act up.

With the stock shocks you will top them out over speed bumps and big dips in the road...and if you spring for the ac 3" springs like I did after the jgc coil broke, youll be constantly topped out.

Yes, they do. Its on the passenger side of the case, at the back.

I'm not sure the IACV would cause it to stall. On mine I've pulled the connector for the iacv a couple times and while it will idle poorly (and at like 350 rpm) it still runs. Doesn't stall. Have you looked into the maf sensor wiring? My old wd21 it would act up, wiggle the wires it was ok for a while. Then eventually it did it all the time and i had to get a new connector.