adamzan

If the solenoid isn't working then you won't have any voltage drop I would think. Since no power is being taken. Unlike when its a bad spot on the starter

2000-2004 Xterra. You don't even really need to have the rad drain hose hole. All the other bolt holes line up, at least they should if nothing is bent.

Until I can bolt it on without farking around with tunes, I won't do it to my DD. I had the cone filter on mine for a while. It sounded cool but I'm not sure it added any power.

The only difference with the xterra one is it doesn't have the hole for the rad drain hose. But whatever.

The transfer case is the same. I put the xterra tcase into my wd21. If anything the shifter was actually slightly longer so it worked better with the body lift. Only had to bend it forward slightly. The vent location is no big deal, just get new hose. The JY I got mine from gave me the hose from the x so I used that. The wiring harness I just plugged the pathy subharness into the xterra trans and it plugged right in with tons of slack. There is literally no modifying that needs to be done to do this. It's all plug and play. I did it on my back in the garage with the help of friends. It took me almost 3 weeks but I only worked on it in the evenings when no one was at work, and it was the middle of winter here.

I don't know why you even need a light....If its in 4 lo you'll definitely know lol.

I don't know exactly what the differences are but I can say that xterras don't have the common no reverse issue, and I've noticed it doesn't have the quirky shift characteristics the wd21 transmission has. If you look in the fsm it apparently shows the difference.

If the off center hole in the first one is not that deep you might get away with a heli coil. One of mine was light that, and they were able to get the helicoil in there.

While you're waiting for nunya's answer, come fix my norco....

The stock pathy trans is the RE4R01A, the xterra one uses the same name for some reason... Curious, why not just find a 4wd xterra one and swap it in? This is what I did, I even used the xterra Torque converter and it all bolted in and works fine. Just to me your route seems like a lot of extra work. Since you already have everything, I say go for it, I would like to see pics of what it looks like inside.

I know most people don't have problems but I am really really leary of buying car parts off of ebay, that aren't used factory parts. I mean if I wanted cheap white box parts I can go down the road to prime choice and pay the same price.

I like how it has Ontario plates....wonder how far from me it is.

Want to mail me a piece for the drivers door lock mechanism? Can't find any in the yards here and don't feel like paying Nissan 15 bucks (locally) for it. http://www.courtesyparts.com/80527n-lever-pathfinder-wd21-1987-1995-p-542760.html Kind of, but my road is paved as it is considered a "highway"

I found some of the aftermarket belts whine more, especially the dayco one I used on my friends xterra (same belt). We did the 90 degree test, what seemed like 20 times. And it still whirrs. Annoying but probably harmless.

If the system is open, you might as well replace them all. I paid 10 dollars for a complete o ring kit and I've been enjoying cool air for over 2 years

Another way, that has worked everytime on a pathfinder for me, is to let the truck run for a bit to let the pipes get warm. Be careful not to burn yourself. But it will work if you don't have a torch, or if funds are tight.

I have the spiral grid battery from crap tire. Bought it in 2010 for my old pathy. Still going strong in my new one lol.

Those ones, like the wd21 ones have the beam pattern on the glass. The 9004 bulb is terrible. Only a 45w low beam.

They are supposed to give you a loaner vehicle....

I found one of those rust modules on a frontier at the jy. Fenders and bedsides were rusty...I grabbed it for tbthee pathy but I suspect its nothing more than a gimmick.

You know even if the engine light is off, the code will still be stored in the computer.

The timing belt if it was never done.

If they are good, pull them. If not, you'll have to bite the bullet and get them at nissan. The bushings can be had aftermarket for a decent price. I think I paid 25 for a moog kit that did both sides. I wouldn't drive without it. I limped mine home with a broken one, and that was a scary drive.

The vw in my driveway is actually my brothers 04 golf. It has over 100k less than my pathy on it, but seems to require a lot more repairs and maintenance. They're fun to drive, but c'mon, I've changed both control arms, the flex pipe and the lower motor mount in the last month. There is always "something" wrong with it lol. My truck is like that too, but it is 20 years old, and it gets wheeled. Whats even more hilarious is on the mk4 they used a plastic water pump impeller. It exploded 2 days after he bought it from the dealer. Good thing too, I was just about to order parts for the timing belt job, but it got done for free. Had about 130k on it at the time (last summer).

Because we all need something reliable to drive (the pathy) while the VW is in the shop. All. The. Time.