adamzan

You don't need it. I've got headers on mine and they came with no shields.

Yep, dealer will (don't let them tell you they're not) replace them free of charge. I've only had one of my rear's done but I need to go back and get the front's done too.

I have the aftermarket mount one. It uses longer bolts for the idler arm on one side and clamps to the CL with 2 u bolts. I have a stock one with the factory pin laying around somewhere. It probably works the same .

I have the rancho one and I honestly didn't notice a difference

Get the frame fixed. Trust me. The amount of tires you will burn through will far outweigh the cost of getting it repaired.

I replaced the rockers on my friends 95 this summer. I had never done it before and i think it came out alright. The parts fit well but you need to trim a little to make it fit your needs.

Mine had that feature, but you could disable it through the programming. It was in the manual for it.

40 teeth between the cam marks an 43 between the drivers cam and the crank marks. This is right every time. The nissan belts (and good aftermarket ones like gates) have marks that are always right.

Sounds like a torque converter to me. If there are no codes. I would look for a new TC

buon natale a tutti I bet karmann will get that one

The clutch thickness is the only thing you need to look at, unless there is obviously broken parts. I still have my auto hubs and they have not given me any issues. They are real nice here in the winter to not have to keep the front end spinning all the time.

I have had worn swaybar links and even broken ones. Never caused a wobble. Just more sway and @!*% handling.

Is the engine light on? Check the codes anyway. How-to in the garage section. I would start checking the MAF, and coolant temp sensors. There is info on this in the service manual which you can find a link to in the garage section.

As long as you have 40 teeth between the cams, and 43 teeth between the Left side cam and the crank, you're fine.

If there is no play, yea they're fine. I wouldn't bother replacing them. Just wait till the joints wear out. Since youd have to take them off anyway.

Those are just the tie rod and ball joint dust boots.

Yea, maybe you have a bent wheel.

have you tried hitting it. That made mine work for a while (had to each time you turned it on) until I got around to changing it.

My egr did not work for several years on my old truck. I noticed no difference. Other than it always passed the emissions test, barely.

For the gas door I soaked it in fluid film 2 years ago and haven't had a problem since. The door locks I would use something else. Like the graphite stuff. Or maybe that new wd40 silicone spray.

So you have no power if you just measure voltage at the plug? Leave the switch on high to rule out the resistor. Might want to do a continuity check on the ground.

I don't know how you got that pitman arm nut off. I broke my breaker bar trying to get it to budge. I gave up and am going to drill it out on the truck...

I have one of the A1 cardone ones (new) from rock auto. After installing it I had a vibration only when the hubs were locked. I swapped it out for a fenco reman one and the problem went away.

I just had someone keep tapping it with a hammer while we lifted the body and it moved with ease.

Have you thought about checking the codes instead of pulling the battery cable off.