adamzan

What everyone else said. Just grease everything with a zerk, add zerks to the ones that don't, and they will last forever. As for shocks I would not go for anything heavy duty unless you wheel it as the ride suffers. The monroe shocks make for nice ride on a street queen.

Could be stuck in the sport mode. Mine rode like a dream with the adjustable shocks. As for heated seats the easiest way is to grab a set from the jy and the sub harness that goes to the switches and seats. Its under the carpet but easy to disconnect and pull.

It wasn't too bad this morning. The truck didn't sound too happy after sitting at work from 8 am till about 25 minutes ago. It is -28 before wind chill now.

I cannot believe something that cheap could actually be of any quality. That, and my motor would be screwed in the first water crossing when wheeling.

Only just below freezing here. Just wearing a hoodie outside now...

Hmm. I could also use those fog lights...

Check your main ground cable that goes to the battery. Make sure it is attached well where it connects to the body and the engine. That caused a lot of issues on mine. Including the battery light being on randomly, and not at all when the key was on but engine off (bulb check)

Well if the are in good shape I could use them!

If you have the BPT valve contraption (it would look like 2 egr valves) check to make sure the little rubber hose doesn't have a split in it. If that's not it it may be the egr temp sensor. It doesn't look that hard to change, as long as it comes out easy, lol.

Pretty much, just buy good quality parts, they will last forever. NGK plugs and wires (if your oem wires aren't arcing, they're fine). Cap and rotor I just buy from the parts store but that's only because they're fairly simple and it seems they're all made by 1 or 2 companies and just re boxed.

31" tires give the best mileage on a stock pathy...I could squeeze almost 24mpg out of mine.

It's your alarm. Mine used to do that. Annoying as hell.

Yea the mps torch works great for the price. Takes a little longer than a full torch set but you work with what you've got.

Find another dealer. Don't waste your time with fskc sticks that are trying to screw you.

I drove with a broken one. You couldn't go above 30mph without the wheel wiggling back and forth. Of course I didn't know what it was till after work.

Bushnut, the wiper is actually a pretty common problem on the r50. It seizes but keeps try to go back to its "home" on the tailgate, thus killing the battery. Happened when we had a 2000 pathy as well. I think it happened to pezzy too.

-26 according to the weather channel. But my thermometer says -32...

Those look great. Do they rattle at all?

Except for you would need the 4wd tranny to bolt the Transfer case to. Lol.

It will. My 95 had a bad injector and the light is on constantly. It also has a steamy miss on that cylinder.

-2 right now with freezing rain. But Wednesdays low is -32C

The polyurethane ones from 4x4parts. I greased them and even put all new zerks in my uca's. I pumped fresh grease in every oil change and they still wore out in less than a year. A stock wd21 rides quite nice actually. Which is why I bought a second one that won't get lifted.

They are dealer only. If yours are working fine, keep them. None of the aftermarket standard shocks can compare to the ride of the adjustable ones.

The TBI have a cylinder head temp sensor. Apparently it is a bitch to reach but doable with the right tools.

I have poly strut rod, upper control arm, swaybar and link bushings. The ride is noticeably more harsh than my other wd21 with all stock bushings. It may handle slightly better, but not enough to justify putting poly in everything. The UCA bushings don't last for @!*%.