adamzan

That means its low on refrigerant. You need to get it recharged. You can get it from AutoZone or something and diy but make sure not to overcharge It.

It did but the bell housing is not the same. It probably could be swapped, but less work to just get one one from an X, or Frontier.

I would not have believed you normally, but my friend has a 95 Xe with the steel wheels and 235s, and the difference in power between mine with the 31's is pretty big. But the 33's are even worse!

http://www.toolsource.com/metric-fine-thread-repair-m14x15-210mm-p-72438.html Maybe these will work? Or could you fill the holes with weld and re drill? I had to do that on a volkswagen once.

Well all auto pathfinders have it so it should be a non-issue.

They aren't really supposed to move. If they start moving the whole wear process starts again. And believe me it does not take long the second time.

If you unplug the abs computer frfrom under the drivers seat the light will go off.

Any Nissan dealer can get you the seal, Alkorahil here on the board runs a nissan parts dept and has great prices. His thread is in services or vendors, can't remember which.

In the FSM there is a diagnostic thing where you ground out one of the pins on that connector that hangs out near the fuse box. It makes the abs lights flash. There are codes you can pull from it. I did it on mine, was fairly easy and told me I had a bad sensor in the rear end.

I used the one piece and was able to push them in with a vice without too much difficulty, but that was before they ever offered the two piece.

You gotta find a way to keep it...Leslie told me she would kill me if I ever sold mine

http://www.4x4parts.com/c-1046950-suspension-polyurethane-suspension-products-pathfinder-bushings.html

o2 sensor?

FWIW I usually just buy my tune up parts locally, like a crappy tire. I don't have to wait and the shipping makes it not really worth it for me most of the time.

Why would you ever have to top up the atf every two weeks unless it leaks?

Yes I did, the truck already had one so i just cleaned it out as a precaution and ran it as is. I also hooked up the radiator cooler again (has a newer rad).

I made a thread about swapping in an Xterra trans (redesigned, much better). It's a bolt in swap, you just need to save the sub harness from your original trans, just plug and play. As for the converter bolts you need to go through the starter hole. I used really long extensions. There is a plate that bolts to the motor that you can remove to give you even more room.

Dropping the tank is easy. I see you don't have a trailer hitch. That will make it even easier. Unhook the lines, unplug the fuel pump harness (its at the back near the bumper), and then there is the 6 bolts holding the tank in. Use a floor jack with a piece of plywood. I would try and do it when the tank is near empty so it's easier to maneuver. The first time I repaired a wd21 I didn't drop the tank, used the wet towels on it to keep the sparks away. The second time I did and it makes it alot easier to check out the entire frame back there, and check the floor above the gas tank. I found a hole in mine there. Small, but worth patching.

They don't have them. Only the hardbodies did.

Could be they scored the crankshaft when installing the rear main.

I have that second one xterra posted. It's very strong and holds 3 mountain bikes just fine. The mount goes under the tire and you bolt the tire down on top of it.

I have some advice. The recommended weight is 5w30, so I would start there.

Yea, but look at the size of the drums compared to the drums the wd21's came with. They're like 2 times the size.

It could be in the connector itself. Mine had to replace it with a JY one since it did the same. And if you unplug the thing altogether it won't go past 3k rpm, right?

Atf in mine.