adamzan

Or the belt is old and stretched.

Change that coolant elbow while you're in there. It's not expensive and is known as the bypass hose. That's about it for oil leaks, keep in mind it is 20 years old, my first 95 I bought in 2006 had no oil leaks and it had around 120k miles when I tore it down to do the timing belt.

Take the stupid led bulbs out and put standard bulbs in. Problem solved.

Low side port? You mean where you add the refrigerant? You may have a problem with the schrader valve inside the port. Could be stuck down, or maybe it's loose (I think you can tighten them like a tire valve).

Which is odd, because my parents have a 2005 maxima with the VQ35, and it burns zero oil between 5000km changes...It has almost 300,000km and the only thing I've changed is the brakes a couple times, both front ball joints, and the timing chain, was done by the dealer. You could go with volkswagen. My brother has a 2004 golf that so far has had the front control arms replaced, the flex pipe, the ignition pack cracked and caused the car to misfire when damp outside, lower motor mount failed, the water pump has gone twice now (first time dealer changed it, this time I did), the radiator has been replaced, the rear struts are leaking, and the front brake calipers have been changed as well. The car has 170,000km, do the math for miles. It has zero rust and has been oil sprayed since its been in the family. Oh and the starter has been replaced too. Oh, and the keyfobs stopped working which required a 300 dollar repair from VW. But hey, it's that german "driving experience". Okay, back on topic now...

If you replace it with another 3.0 get a jdm one. I just bought mine for 350 dollars and it looks brand new. Not a drop of rust anywhere.

But he said routine maintenance...What german car doesn't need thousands worth of work every time it sees a shop.

That's good to know. My friend has a press but it's a 45 minute drive and I rather not have the truck apart on a sunday afternoon again, lol. Work needed is starting to really pile up...Exhaust is leaking really bad from the flange under my feet now...That and the steering is so loose it feels like I'm going to lose a wheel. I really need to get the engine put in the other pathy so I can drive it.

I have the A/C control arms (I have 2 sets actually, one I bought from a member here, another I was given) but one got bent in a collision so it is useless unless fixed. But I think I am running too much lift now as the ball joint angle is excessive and is probably why the truck is destroying upper ball joints. Although it's only the passenger side which is odd. The correct bushing fitment is probably worth it the most. fskc trimming @!*%. If I'm spending that much on parts, they better farking fit! Do I actually need a press or can I use a vice or something?

You could try some of the Lucas tranny treatment, but you may be too far gone if you're hearing noises.

I paid 189 at rugged rocks . I like summit but I will support a small business when I can.

If you changed all the tie rods, idler arm, etc... You definitely need an alignment! No offense, but since it appears you have some experience working on cars, did you not think you would need one?

Ordered new superlift UCA's yesterday. Got a great price from rugged rocks. Hopefully this will be the end of my front end woes after the grassroots CL and new control arms.

I would actually prefer no power steering at higher speeds.

You should be able to remove the trans support without taking the bars off. I've done it before, it just wiggled out. I know which connector you're talking about. I can look at my pics when I get home.

1-2 hard shift when cold is completely normal.

What all did you change up front? Did you get an alignment? Sounds like massive toe-out to me.

Get a cooler on there, you're in a warm area so no need to include the factory cooler. Also get that fluid changed as well. Even if it "looks good". Any good quality dexron 3 will work fine.

Exactly what he said ^. If you're going to get bigger tires, you can cut the wheel lip right off, weld the two panels together, and have more tire clearance. If you want a more factory look time to get some sheetmetal and a welder. Don't just body fill over the rust.

I wonder how the rest of us survived growing up, no a/c, or airbags in cars. It's a miracle we're even alive! No offense to you, just a general observation...

http://www.cnet.com/news/power-steering-shifts-to-electric/ lol an infiniti for one

Who in the world actually thinks having brakes that could fail because of a computer problem was a good idea? Just like the electric power steering that has standard power steering as a backup, wtf?

I want to say its around 40 ft lbs but double check the fsm to be sure.

It should be in a little tree of connectors on the passenger side. Almost right behind the power steering fluid thing. Unless someone has messed with it before, then it may just be laying near there somewhere.

You probably have a leak somewhere. So if there is 0 psi i would try and listen for it. You can also get dye to put in and it will show leaks under a black light. I repllaced all the o rings on mine and that solved the issue.