adamzan

Damn. I think I would be at.your place all the time if i lived in bc Sent from my SGH-I747M using Tapatalk

The best way to fix something is never the cheapest way. Just buy a stock replacement, unless you want loud, then have a flowmaster welded in. The cheapest way would be just to weld the old pipe back on.

Running 87 won't cause it to pre detonate as it will adjust the timing to compensate. Unless something is wrong there. Sent from my SGH-I747M using Tapatalk

That looks like edicer2's old rig.

You need to remove the manifold, and drill out/extract the studs. Get a good set of extractors and it's cake.

For 46 bucks, I would not waste my time pissing around with making tools on something that is pretty critical.

What brand plugs and wires and cap? did you use? Just replace the hose. It takes 30 seconds and there's no point in wondering about it. Also are there any codes? Try unplugging the o2 sensor and see if it runs smoother. Its the one with two white and one black wire on the tree of connectors behind the power steering fluid bottle.

Yea, I changed mine when doing the t-belt. Much easier! It is doable though. I did it on my friends xterra fully assembled. Use some oil or something to make the hose slide on easier.

It's called the bypass hose. You should be able to get one at any auto parts store.

The monroe shocks are fine. I used those on my parents r50 and it rode fine with no bottoming. The springs were never an issue and it lasted till 300k. Sent from my SGH-I747M using Tapatalk

I think you're confusing sway bar bushings for trailing arm bushings. The xterra has a leaf spring setup while your pathy has a 5 link coil setup. The "links" are those arms you see connecting the rear end to the frame. Crawl under and try to twist them. If you get movement they're bad. Fairly common part to wear on the r50. Sent from my SGH-I747M using Tapatalk

I never really told anyone this but I did have the hitch come off on my old pathy. It took the rear bumper with it...Thankfully I was just pulling a hay wagon on my friend's farm. But It could have been much worse. The frame wasn't really rotten back there but the bolt heads pried their way out of the frame, I guess after pulling so many people out with the hitch lol. I just welded it on afterwards .

Use whatever you want, as long as it says dexron III or nissan matic D on it. I used valvoline maxlife because that was what they had at the time.

You can just swap the 3rd member in. You'll need to disconnect the brake lines (easy) and undo the 4 bolts at each end so you can pull the shafts out just until they disengage from the diff. Then you can unbolt the third and pull it out. I swapped in an LSD version into my old pathy and it took me about 2-3 hours and never having done any work on rear ends before. Make sure you have new fluid on hand and inspect the doner part carefully. Or go with a locker. But that's a little more work, but worth it if you plan on wheeling a lot.

So no more towing for you? Or are you going to get the welder out.

I thought it was the re4? Or is yours 2wd? Today I attempted the install of my new superlift UCA's. Got one side done but the other, the spindle wouldn't come out of the old AC uca. Will have to finish it next weekend when I can get access to a press. Or I will cut it out of the uca, but I kinda wanna sell them afterword, lol.

http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/nissan-hardbody-truck-suspension-torsion-bars-bushings.html It's for a 2wd but the uca are the same. You do want the flange part on the outside on both sides. It's fairly easy, I was able to push in my poly bushings by hand. Make sure to use a grease made for it or you'll be replacing them again in a short period of time.

Along with that farking visor which i hate!

I really like the wd21 in white, black, or that dark green colour they came in. Are you painting it yourself? Or having a shop do the work?

Did you do the final tightening when the truck was still in the air? I believe you're supposed to just snug the bolts and then torque them when it's sitting on the ground again. This is true for the WD21, not sure about the r50. As for rust, there is nothing you can do except for rust proofing. I oil mine yearly but it still has spots all over the place...Just keep grinding and painting lol.

The cats don't just 'clog' That is the most bull@!*% story i've ever heard.

Not sure, I heard there are two shift kits, one is more firm than the other. I looked into this a while ago, but I have an xterra trans in mine now, no slip between any gears.

Oil change, and dropped my 33's off at a tire place to get road force balanced. Hopefully this will be the end of the shakes for me.

Why did you even take the fan off to change the belts? Unless you tore it down to the timing belt...

A 2004 has the vq35 and would have a timing chain.