adamzan

Most house brand filters are rebadged frams Sent from my SGH-I747M using Tapatalk

Replace that before the balancer fails and takes out your radiatior... Sent from my SGH-I747M using Tapatalk

B its a plug under the cam pulley. Big ass hex plug. Sent from my SGH-I747M using Tapatalk

Yes, the econ button is what you want to run. Kill's the a/c.

You can crank your front end up about 1.5 inches before needing the aftermarket arms. Get the jeep grand cherokee springs. They can be found at wrecking yards or buy new ones. the 95 V8 springs for the front is what you want. Stove pipe body patches? lmao. Was the frame broken?

I had a bent one replaced, after someone hit me and pushed me into a curb. They replaced it with a used one they had to get shipped across the country because there were none around here lol. So I have one rust free west coast lca. It was hardly bent though, but they could not align the truck with the old one.

Get used ones? Sent from my SGH-I747M using Tapatalk

I grease mine every time I'm doing an oil change. It keeps them quiet.

They're not chrome its aluminum Sent from my SGH-I747M using Tapatalk

As long as it is any xterra trans it will be fine. If it ends up being out of a supercharged, you need the flexplate (flywheel) from the SC motor as the bolt pattern for the Torque converter is different.

quebec is a moron state for more reasons than just salt! But that's just my opinion

Yeah, I'm pretty sure that the camber has hardly any adjustment unless you get new bolts or oval out the holes in the struts. as long as it is within a degree or less to 0 its fine. There is some leeway lol.

Lot's of positive caster is what you want. Helps it track straight. His looks good too me. Hell mine isn't even that good and I can adjust it with shims (wd21).

There should be something near the bell housing. I believe mine had the vin of the xterra it came from. Sent from my SGH-I747M using Tapatalk

The right side tie rod was way off. Sent from my SGH-I747M using Tapatalk

Sounds like its slipping when trying to go into 3rd gear. If the fluid looks like @!*% change it, but I suspect your trans is done

My lifters tick a lot on cold starts with 10w30. Not at all on 5 weight.

Honestly I would throw another set of 10.9 in there and run it. 10.9 metric is equivalent to grade 8 standard, and many people have run them without issue. Me included. I do know that some bolt suppliers had "counterfit" bolts that were not as strong as they claimed. There was a store here selling them at one time.

My pathfinder runs best with the NGK V-power plugs. They are the ones it calls for in the service manual. Copper plugs with the V groove. My Xterra calls for the ngk laser platinum plugs, but then again, it's supercharged.

I think that ia for the non severe service. With the way everyone drives these days, everyone should follow the severe service maintenance schedule. Sent from my SGH-I747M using Tapatalk

But why thinner higher number? 5w30 will be the same cold and protect the motor better warm as that is what it was designed for. 5w20 is spec'd for newer fuel saver cars like Honda civics. I got 22mpg many times driving from Ottawa to Kitchener. Sometimes even more. Now I'm running 33s so mileage is a moot point. Sent from my SGH-I747M using Tapatalk

Pointless. Just change the fluid. Sent from my SGH-I747M using Tapatalk

You can safely run 4qts in it though. The oil pans are nice and deep.

Since you're canadian you probably have a Crappy Tire nearby. I used the moto master 80w90 with a bottle of CRC posi-trac additive. Been working fine for years. Mine is always a little wet at the fill plug, but never low on fluid. I only noticed it recently after a week long wheeling event, you could only tell because the rest was muddy. I'm not worrying too much about it.

The 3.3 Pathy/Xterra are famous for this, wd21, not so much. I just replaced the one in my X, except it wasn't as bad. It would just hesitate and idle rough when warm, caught it before it left me on the side of the road!