adamzan

If you need to add more shims, which you likely will, purchase longer bolts for the arms. M14x1.5x60mm. This is 10mm longer than stock. Then you can safely add more shims. Don't add more than 3/8" though.

KYB's suck. The used to be good, but I'm not sure what happened. We put a set on my friends 95, and it was more bouncy than the 20 year old stock shocks we took off. If you want just stock replacement, get some monroe sensatrac or oe spectrum, or whatever they call them now. They have lifetime warranty, and at least monroe is a decent brand.

Another reason not to buy a Cherokee. It brings your luck down! Sent from my SGH-I747M using Tapatalk

And by the looks of those wheels, a brake job and a good cleaning.

You could take the fuel line off at the rail and use the fuel pump to pump it into a jerry can. Then evaluate from there.

None of my u joints that were bad on the pathy ever felt loose they were always binding. So you could only tell by taking the driveshaft off.

Open up the top of it and look? Mine sat for 2 years, I just put fresh gas in and fired it up...it was fine. Didn't even look in the tank to be honest.

My truck is 7 years older than yours, with likely double the mileage. And it has towed somewhat regularly for most, if not all of it's life, I have an extra transmission cooler. I'm pretty sure its fine. Please don't make assumptions about how I treat my vehicles. If you want to cut into your hood and start corrosion, and make your truck look like a riced out honda, to each their own.

As long as the engine isn't overheating who cares if you can feel it? Mine is like that all the time. Cutting into the hood is stupid and just allows rust to start somewhere else. Sent from my SGH-I747M using Tapatalk

Mine looks the same. Blower was actually bad. It started with fluctuating speed. But then you had to hit it to make it work. And then you get no heat eventually.

Lol. It does not get hot enough in Canada to require hood vents. Actually I have climbed long grades in the summer, with 33's and a trailer, and a fully loaded truck. You just need to make sure your cooling system is in good shape. Clean coolant, no debris or a mud filled radiator. You can tow in OD once you're up to speed, but the main thing is not to go long periods of driving with the torque converter unlocked. Making sure the TC stays locked will seriously reduce trans temp. How big is this trailer, uhaul? I've towed the 6x12 covered trailer they have for a couple hundred km with no issues, even with my WD21, which has probably 100 less hp than your 3.5L. You'll be fine.

fskc people are so stupid!

Can't help you with the clutch, but my pathy has outlasted my last 3 relationships. Lol. Sent from my SGH-I747M using Tapatalk

Unfortunately they're either dealer or part out only items Sent from my SGH-I747M using Tapatalk

As long as you get a high quality aftermarket one, it's fine. Mine's been in there for 3 years. I find intermotor or BWD to be decent. Sent from my SGH-I747M using Tapatalk

Actually its ford-autolite and Chrysler-champion. Sent from my SGH-I747M using Tapatalk

Get one out of an Xterra. Don't bother with anything else.

If I had to do it again, I would only do a 3" lift and 33x10.5x15 tires. If you plan to do a lot of off roading you should get or make skid plates, and sliders to protect the rockers.

I found my pathfinder 1/2 way low on oil on the stick, this weekend on a trip. I'm not sure if it's burning or leaking (the valve cover is very wet), but I had no oil to top it off with. So I just used 1/2 a litre of ATF. It's been 6000km on that oil anyway, so I guess I just did an engine flush lol.

Yeah, I used them before, found absolutely not difference. Here, it is 10 dollars for 2 pack of g power. Or 2 something a plug for the V power. Easy decision for me.

Yeah funny enough, all the times I brought my pathy in for an oil change when being lazy, I looked afterward and it was done just as good as I would have. They even washed the oil off the starter for me. To me it sounds like the maf wiring is flaky. And I bet they messed with the air filter housing to check the filter. Wiggle the wires and see what happens.

They will give you 2" of lift at the most (the jeep springs). Don't waste your time if you're looking for more than a hair above stock height. You can lift the front by adjusting the torsion bars, and replacing the upper control arms with some aftermarket ones from 4x4parts or rugged rocks. I recommend the superlift ones as they correct the ball joint angle, and are just better built all around. After having one of these trucks for a long time, yes there is the cheap way to do things (jeep springs, ball joint spacers, cheap headers), you are better off to spend on quality parts, otherwise you will be doing it all over again every couple years, if not earlier.

NGK V power is what the manual calls for, and they work best. The fancy ngk ones will last longer, but performance is the exact same. In a decade of pathy ownership, I've tried them all.

The pathfinder fuel injection is about as reliable as it gets. No one really has issues with it.

No you just install it and go. Mine has been in for 2 years now, with zero issues. Speaking of which. I haven't changed the fluid yet...