adamzan

Yes, power loss, more fuel burned, and your vehicle sounding like crap as it will get worse. It's not the worst job in the world to do but it is cramped in there.

And unless you are some kind of engineer, or have access to a wind tunnel, you can't say it makes any difference for sure.

It says in the owners manual if the trailer is over 2000lbs it should have brakes. So, go with that.

It's screwed in. And it is a bitch to take out.

Try cleaning out the rad fins. Mine were hard packed with mud and I had to take it out to clean it right.

It could be the sending unit the thing the pump is attached to, just had to change mine, check the wires on top of the tank. They will be corroded where they have those plastic white caps. You can bypass them or buy a new sending unit.

They have it at canadian tire. In the section with all the body work stuff.

Nice job. It took me a year to complete my motor swap, on a pathy I bought for 500 bucks... For the KYB shocks, I found them way to bouncy, I installed a set on my friend's 95 and it feels worse than the stock shocks I took off.

It adds an additional ground. I spliced one into my old pathy myself and bolted it to that bolt with the alternator ground on the rad support. Never had another issue.

That is a factory part. It does look terrible, but it was to add another ground to the MAF sensor. You can try plugging it in direct, but it may bring back the issue that the sub harness fixed, which is stalling, erratic idle, and an engine light with code 45.

I still don't get why people care about book value. If you like the vehicle, keep it, fix it, whatever. Case closed.

If you are driving it like that, and it is an ignition miss, you will be dumping a lot of raw fuel into the cylinders, which will dilute the oil and wash the oil coating on the cylinder walls away. This will kill your motor in short order.

An aftermarket one should be just fine, as long as it is a good brand.

Just tighten them yourself, takes 5 minutes. Make sure you only tighten enough to stop the noise. 2 or 3 turns should be enough. New belts break in after a little bit and stretch.

Try gravity bleeding or the old fashioned way. Also you need to bleed it starting with the left rear tire. It is actually furthest from the master as the line run on the pass side frame rail. Also I'm not sure how well clamps and hose will hold up. Why not just get a roll of brake line from the parts store?

If it is good while cold but bad when it warms up, it is definitely sensor related. Check the o2. The easy test is to unplug it then drive the truck to see if it runs better.

For what it's worth, I just did this on a 95 SE I bought cheap and put a new motor in. It did have a slight whine in 1st and 2nd, but not too bad. I figure it will probably last a while. I used ACDelco syncromesh fluid as it was all I could find here in canada at a reasonable price. As for pouring it in the shift hole, I already had it all apart so removing the shifter was cake. It did not take any time at all to pour it in like some here are saying. It seriously took all of 5 minutes to pour in...And I didn't have to cut the zip tie, I just slid it off carefully and then back on when I was done. It looks like it was never touched, but the oil that came out was clean, but was not the 5.1 litres it should have been. I just used the 5 litres of the delco fluid, and 100ml of some VW manual trans oil I had leftover from something else.

Why not go to the junkyard and get a new one. Then it is fixed "properly" and you can dim the lights.

FWIW I just swapped a new to me engine into my 95SE and I had half the vacuum lines unhooked, egr not hooked up right, and IACV unpluged, and it still ran halfway decent lol.

The EGR, IACV, and PCV will not cause misfires. They would cause poor idling, bad gas mileage, failed emissions test, and burning oil (pcv).

You can get a new pickup tube from Nissan. I don't imagine it would be too expensive. You can always get a JY part, but I'm sure you now see the labour involved to pull the oil pan. Unless you find a 2wd model.

And here is the exact one, lol. Same stamped logo. http://www.amazon.com/Dorman-HELP-65109-Drain-Plug/dp/B000CO96CM/ref=pd_sim_auto_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=1QBFX2T06Y8BNJMKHM34

Looks like some sort of oil pan drain plug "repair" BS to me.

Partsource sells a TB kit for a decent price, with good quality parts. I got one for my xterra for about 200 dollars. It came with the belt, water pump, tensioner pulley, cam and crank seals, and the water pump gasket (some cheap pumps don't). It was a contitech kit.