barnum

Thanks for the responses guys. Planning to get a couple quotes on a swap then decide if I'll sell or repair. Intake swap should be easy enough and it will be easier finding an AT engine anyhow.

Shouldn't be power valves as from my understanding that was only in AT engines, I have a MT. Is oil consumption/worn rings a common failure on these engines? If so, I may not be interested in keeping the vehicle around. Which on the subject matter, what's the difference besides the mating plate between AT/MT and no power valves? AT engines will be much more available than MT. Is there anything else MT specific besides mating plate? Did the tranny coolant lines come from the engine or radiator? Found this image online from another poster in Nicoclub. I can't tell if those lines run into the engine at all or if just between the cooler and tranny. EDIT: Found another post that the power valves are actuated by the TCU so an "AT" engine swap into my "MT" Pathfinder won't work.

Hey guys, been awhile since I've been on here. My 02 R50 has been running rough at idle for a while now with P0300 coming up frequently (multi-cylinder misfire) as well as excessive oil consumption since I got it 3 years ago. Other than that the thing runs great. Finally really started digging into it to understand the issue and have come down to PCU failure of some sort based on the following diagnosis: - Air/fuel filter swap -> no diff - Plug swap (OEM NGK's) -> no diff - Power balance test -> found cyl #1 made no difference in idle rpm - Coil test -> OK - Check spark -> OK - Vacuum leak check -> OK - Dry compression test -> cyl #1/4 low (~50% of highest) - Leakdown test -> cyl #1/4 had leaked into exhaust stream, negligible leak in crankcase (piston may have shifted as I did not lock engine position) - Wet compression test -> cyl #1 jumped 22psi/cyl #4 jumped 70psi -> most likely bad rings/pistons/or cylinders So, I'm at the crossroads of sell, engine swap, or repair. I want to know if this worn rings, compression loss is a known issue with VQ35DE's or if this is an outlier. Reason being, if I can get an engine swap done for $1500 that might be the way to go but I would be taking a gamble with a junkyard engine and don't want to get another if this issue may come back because of its prevalence. Anyone know a little better than me the known issues with these engines at high mileage? I'll have to perform the leak down again with the engine position locked to confirm or deny leak into exhaust stream. Info on VQ35DE longevity appreciated. Thanks.

Yeah that's at least correct for the VQ. Any idea how much you paid/where you got the Y-pipe? I can't find one for cheaper than like $75.

What's the Y-pipe inlet diameters?

So....yes, 2"? No, something different?

I've had a Dynomax catback before on a Cherokee. Wasn't bad. Cheap but not much low end grunt. What dual inlet diameter? 2"? Haven't seen many/any 1.75" dual inlets.

Any info on the Y-pipe or how you all accomodated a single in/single out muffler with the stock dual inlet pipes?

Question here along the same lines. I have leaky exhaust - both "mid-vehicle" resonators have bad leaks, a couple welded butt-joints are leaking, and I have a pinhole leak in the muffler. I bought the cheapo $5 putty to give it a shot. Yes, I know that its not permanent and will fail again. But for $5, its worth a try. Can't knock me for that. If/when is leaks again (if the resonators) I'm going to straight pipe those and delete the resonators. I'm considering another muffler as a wishlist item. I want to keep flow velocities similar while reducing backpressure (a.k.a. similar pipe total area/less restrictive muffler). A 2.5" single pipe achieves this (4.82 sq.in. total area for stock dual inlet pipes, 4.91 sp.in. total area at the 2.5" single out), so I'll slow down in exhaust velocity but only slightly. So, to my question: has anyone found a decently cheap dual 1.75" in Y-pipe to 2.5" single out? Or has everyone gone to a shop and gotten this stuff done?

Bump. I'm experiencing a similar issue on my 02. Interested as well.

Thanks Leo, will do.

Well my clutch is only about 7000 miles in so I guess it will just depend on how long I can stand that terrible whirring every time I depress the clutch before I decide to drop the tranny. $30 bearing + 8-9 hours labor cost vs my insanity...

Tungsten, all of your pics won't show up for me. I've tried multiple computers. Any chance you still have them to either pm or email?

Any update? I'm having the same issue on my 02. You replace the release or leave her be?

Any update? Did you replace the release? I'm having the same issue on my 02.