adamzan

Honestly I got some for free from part outs. They are that worthless, lol.

I would start with a new thermostat and a coolant drain/fill/bleed. Get the 180F thermo instead of the 170. Will make a difference in your heat.

I would think so. I left the mount on my X trans and used it with my pathfinder crossmember. So I would say yes.

Check the vacuum line on the back of the intake manifold that goes to the fuel pressure regulator. It can fall off and do that. Sent from my SGH-I747M using Tapatalk

Not really. I would rather change the timing belt than change stupid issues because of poor designn. Sent from my SGH-I747M using Tapatalk

And how is a carb any better than the current fuel injection?

This is why you change it at the mileage nissan says to...Not wait till it breaks.

You should fix the leak....then fill and burp it. Sent from my SGH-I747M using Tapatalk

Nice! So basically years of filth were the cause, lol. How does that LED look in there compared to the rest. I really want to replace the burn out ones on mine (read: all of them).

I heard (from a friend in the VW crowd) that GM syncromesh is the best for our type of trans. VW's have the same "yellow" metals and this is what they all use with great success. Plus it is easily attainable and cheaper than royal purple or redline. Also called Pennzoil syncromesh I believe. You should be able to get it at a GM dealer or NAPA.

I would think it's the tires if everything else checks out. One other thing to check is to make sure the weights on your drive shaft are still there. Mine fell off and it caused a slight vibe at the speeds your talking about. The factory weights are square metal pieces. Sent from my SGH-I747M using Tapatalk

That can actually cause a lot of problems. Electricity takes the path of least resistance. So clean grounds are essential. Ever wonder why older vehicles have odd intermittent issues or the lights are not as bright as they used to be. Sent from my SGH-I747M using Tapatalk

To be honest when mine broke on me I just replaced both sides with new rods and moog bushings, never fixed any of the holes as I was really sick at the time with crohns, and they are still "okay". Should still get around to fixing the holes and cups though lol.

It's because the clamps under the hood are loose. Check the one by the distributor. Sent from my SGH-I747M using Tapatalk

In your second pic, it's one of the 2 on the right. The Service manual will tell you which.

It would be nice if ya called me now and then

There are 4 trailing arms 2 lower and 2 upper. The lower would cause the wiggle. Try twisting the arms. Any movement at all means they're worn and need to be changed. Mine looked fine but made a huge difference in the handling. Sent from my SGH-I747M using Tapatalk

If this is for the evap system I can see that. It is under the truck and the exhaust probably runs near it. Do you have an engine light on? It is a part that you could install yourself. Just a couple hoses and an electrical connection. Sent from my SGH-I747M using Tapatalk

If you're behind me with hid lights in halogen housings...be prepared as I keep a stockpile of old aa batteries to flick out my sunroof at you. Sent from my SGH-I747M using Tapatalk

MAF sensor wires. Wiggle them at the connector.Very common.

You can take two pieces of metal with grease between them to have the tires on. Or wait till its icy. That works too lol. Sometimes it is worth paying for an alignment Sent from my SGH-I747M using Tapatalk

That's too much, I only torque mine to 90 ft lbs. Because I have a fear of stripping the frame holes. Never had an issue even with longer (60mm instead of 50) bolts so I can add enough shims to get the camber out of ricer stance.

Take a pic and post it. What fark tard shop did you use?

If you don't know, may as well just change the fluid. Then you'll know for sure. You can use valvoline maxlife, or castrol import multi vehicle. Those are both excellent fluids.

If you want someone to help out, or just drink beer and supervise, let me know. I'll come up for a day.