adamzan

I would normally say yes, but that has high mileage, and is only an XE. If you really miss it that much then it'd be worth it but I would try and find an SE model with lower miles.

It's weird, I have seen some with the diagram under the hood. Maybe the ones without it have been replaced.

You can just use washers stacked to the same thickness. That's what I did. The egr tube we had to heat with a torch but it did come off okay.

Well the principles of engines are pretty much the same across all manufacturers unless it's like a rotary mazda or something. Sent from my SGH-I747M using Tapatalk

Hey where's my power antenna fender? Lol.

Headers made 33's much more driveable for me. But unless you're doing a build or a 3.3 swap, it's still going to be under powered

I went to the jy and robbed one out of an xterra. They have a strange setup. First the same boot as the wd21, then a thinner rubber one, then the leather one. I took it all and now my truck is much quieter inside. Sent from my SGH-I747M using Tapatalk

You can get JWT cams. http://www.jimwolftechnology.com/

That's just a seal. If you jack up the tire and there is no play in the idler arm, leave it alone.

There is supposed to be a gasket that comes with the RMS, for the housing. At least mine did. I just used some of that spray adhesive to hold it in place and it's been fine. Although I was stupid and didn't replace the oil pan one the first time around.

I already used the spare when I got into a minor accident and bent the wheel. Kept the cash from the people that hit me, lol.

15x8 with 4" backspace works better on the wd21. I bought Cragar Soft 8's from summit racing years ago for like 38 bucks a piece. So cheap I bought 6.

As I drove it to work sounding like a tractor with no muffler, I debated going back to the manifolds/crossover pipe setup over new headers. Headers are on back order and I can't stand the god damn leaks.

Yeah, that is not a fun job especially if they're rusted in there.

Get a set of legos and call it a day. That's what bushnut posted.

This is your best option. I replaced it the "proper" way on my xterra and it was a pita. It is S/C though so the knock sensor is important. Are you sure you don't have any lingering issues that could be causing the code?

Change it anyway. And it looks a little wet to me. Oil will not get in there from oil changes. Also, the curved part of the oil pan gasket could be leaking too. Its easy to change as it doesn't require dropping the pan. Sent from my SGH-I747M using Tapatalk

It's the rear suspension bushings you should be looking at for those symptoms. Sent from my SGH-I747M using Tapatalk

That's the right way for the washers. Sent from my SGH-I747M using Tapatalk

Why not just get an aftermarket windshield installed? I had one put in my pathy and it came ot about 350 dollars taxes in. With a lifetime leak warranty. I've never heard of anyone buying an oem windshield, lol.

I think you mean alignment. Balancing of tires is kind of a universal thing. While the alignment on the older (wd21) pathfinders can be somewhat cumbersome. The torsion bars have a slow memory and will need to be driven around the block after being on a lift before put on an alignment rack. Most shops are lazy and will just set the toe and let it go. You need to find a good shop that will set the camber/caster, and then the toe. Some of us here, myself included just do it ourselves with a level for the camber, and string/tape measures for the toe. If you take it somewhere and they just do the quick alignment, it will eat the outside of the front tires like crazy. The last time I had a "good" shop align my truck it took them the better part of a day, and cost me 200 dollars. Granted it drove perfect and didn't wear the tires even with a suspension lift. Search around on the net for diy alignment. It's not that hard. These trucks don't need it that perfect anyway. Just get the toe to 1/8" toe in or even 0 toe is fine (may wander a bit though)

What about the main and rod bearings in the bottom end? I assume the kit came wit those?

A lot quicker to pull the seat than the cluster.

Its just a bolt head like 17 or 19mm and there is a copper washer to seal. You get get the bolts at nissan. Not too expensive. Or the jy. No special tools required.. Sent from my SGH-I747M using Tapatalk

You know you could have just unplugged the connection? That's what I did lol. Sent from my SGH-I747M using Tapatalk