adamzan

I think It will run fine without the manual ecm. But it might not cost that much to pull the one from the donor. Transfer case I'm not sure about, I would just grab the whole deal from the other truck and use that. Then you don't have to mess with splitting the two. They are all tx-10 though unless you have the electric switch and not the floor lever. My auto and tcase weighed probably 250+ lbs. It took 3 of us to lift it and the new one.

I would second the suggestion of warped rotors. Also make sure nothing is loose. Like the uca to frame bolts. The rotors on my brothers golf pulse only under braking from high speeds. Around town you never noticed.

80w90 gear oil. Anything will work.

My front ones have a big ass ridge on the inside edge. I am going to just run the pads to metal and replace both parts. I should really repack the bearings and replace the grease seals as well anyways.

How much are they for you? I can get white box ones for 24 dollars a piece. Ones I have now i think i bought at crap tire for a little more. They were Wagners though.

I asked about getting them turned here and both places I went to said don't bother because i can buy new ones for the same cost as the labour to machine them. Although how much work is it to measure and throw it on a lathe.

Heat up the o2 sensor and replace it. It will make your mileage terrible and not set a light when they go bad. Bad enough to affect things but not bad enough to set the light. You can just let the engine run for 10 minutes and get the pipe hot, I've never had a problem getting one out that way. Good luck.

The rear rotors are so cheap I just throw new ones on every brake job.

What is parrel? Did you mean peril? Yes check the o2 sensor and the coolant temperature sensor. They usually cause crappy running.

The wreckers or a part out? I have not found an aftermarket source.

If it's "as is", you're out of luck. A broken coil is not the end of the world.

I think the screw in things for the shade changed in late 94/early 95. Some are threaded while others are a half turn click in type thing like the xterra. The tint on the xterra glass is much nicer. I am tempted to find one and swap it in to mine.

If 4x4 and just doing the clutch you don't need to remove the t-bars fully. you can just unbolt the crossmember and pull it down a bit so the tcase can clear. All you really need to do is slide the trans back far enough.

If your timing marks are lined up. Slide the pulley on. Then bolt the outer piece on with the left most timing mark at the pointer.

And get it aligned.

Headlights would be easy. Just find an ignition switched source and wire it to the trigger of the low beam relay.

I have the digital trip meter as well and it works fine in the cold. I would check connections and maybe tighten the brass screws on the back of the cluster. They're the ground points.

the only place ive found them is ac as well

I don't even have a rear sway bar. Although I do miss it at times. Mine flexes so much now it mushed in the rear fender lips

Driveshaft hitting it? I see signs that mine has too. I just ignore it lol.

Ypu can buy all the hangers from rock auto or any parts store.

Just avoid the cheap 20 dollar pad sets and you should be fine. I am thinking about going with the Hawk pads next time around. I usually just use the Monroe stuff because it works great, doesn't make noise, and is reasonably priced (about $50 a set locally).

Pull the fuse for your rear wiper and see if it stays charged.

I know it should be somewhere in the middle if the distributor is installed right.

That's actually pretty cool. I was expecting this thread to be "I'm a cheap redneck and I bypassed the ignition because it broke" kinda deal. Good job.