adamzan

Next time it doesn't want to start try banging on the starter and see if it will turn over. Sounds like a dead starter to me. Good idea avoiding the parts store crap.

Castrol GTX is a good oil. No need for high mileage with only 73k. High mileage oil, is for when you have leaks/oil burning problems.

I don't put that sheit in my oil so I couldn't tell you.

I have like three sets of every bulb the truck takes. Plus fuses. Nothing like oem matching fuses so all the fonts are the same when you open the panel lol.

Slide the seat all the way forward. You can see them easily that way.

I would make sure all your spark plug wires are seated properly. You can remove one at a time from the dizzy to see which makes a difference or not. Use some long insulated pliers or something though! There is also the o rings that seal the injector but I would think it would be leaking fuel if those were an issue?

It's behind the panel that is right beside where your left foot normally sits.

12.2 is way too low. It should be at least above 13, and ideally near 14.

I just mean a sacrificial bolt that i really didn't care about ruining the threads on.

There are 2 cats, a pre cat and the regular one. The o2 sensor has to have both streams of exhaust (left and right) for the truck to run properly.

Have you checked the fuses? I think the one for the cig lighter will make the a/c not work for some reason.

And what hoses did you use in the back there. If you have part numbers or know what to ask for that'd be great. I need to tear into that to do my valve cover gasket.

Slartibartfast, les whatever was kind of right, it was a pontiac, so the wheel will fall off eventually

I did it on the truck. Took the grille out, as I was changing the dryer at the same time (what was causing my leak). I would suggest you change all of the o-rings while you have the system open. I didn't have to re-tap it as I used a small bit and then used a larger one after. Then I was able to pry the rest out with a screwdriver. Ran a guinea pig bolt in there a few times with a little oil to smooth things out and it was done.

You'll also lose your speakers, if you care about them lol.

I had the same problem, the bolt that is facing the front of the truck, right? I snapped it off and had to drill it out. Tedious, but I cleaned up the threads and a new bolt threaded in fine. The bolt is there to hold the parts together, there is an o ring in there that needs pressure on it to seal.

I paid 350 for mine but that is just over inflated Canada pricing.

I had this same problem. The glass shop felt bad for me i guess as they didn't charge extra to fix the rust...

If you hit the dash and it works again, you have loose or dirty contacts. You can take it apart and clean/tighten things up. It's not too hard.

It's on the transfer case, passenger side. It has a 10mm bolt securing it.

Just for the record, the cruise does NOT run off the engine vacuum, regardless of what anyone tells you. It has it's own little vacuum pump. The most common things to stop the cruise on these trucks seems to be the steering wheel contacts (94-95) and the brake pedal switches.

It sounds like a bad vss to me. It may be telling the ecu that you're spinning the tires and that is what throws it into the "stuck in 3rd gear" limp mode.

Wish these had been around sooner before I bought the 3" AC springs! It would be nice to have lift but keep the stock cushy spring rate.

I don't understand how in 2014, when pretty much all manufacturers use metric, metric hardware is still not commonly available. I mean most "hardware" stores around here only carry the crappy 8.8 metric hardware which is basically grade 5 SAE.

I have done it on an r50 wd21 and an xterra. The r50 was the hardest because of the ac line in the way and the retarded power steering belt tensioner position.