adamzan

This is why you should never use a jaw type puller on this. You need to use a proper puller. Like the one Slart used. I bought mine at canadian tire 5 years ago for around 20-30 dollars. I've used it countless times on my own vehicles and have loaned it to friends. Well worth the investment. But to answer your Q, yes any should work. The good thing is you can just remove the 6 bolts and take the pulleys off from the balancer itself.

My 95 is like that. You can pull the key out while driving. The PO was a realtor and used it for staging houses, so I imagine a lot of short trips getting in and out, etc.

Did you replace the bypass hose at least? Why not just fill it with coolant and wait, it will thaw out eventually.

OP: If the fluid change doesn't help, and it passes all the checks on the self test (see the FSM), then I would look for a new/used trans. You could also check to make sure there are no speed sensor related codes in the ecu, as it will cause issues with the tranny. I think 100% of the issues on these transmissions is due to lack of maintenance. My dad had a 93 wd21 from 96 till 2006 and never had any issues, changed all fluids at Nissan recommended intervals, and it lasted over 400,000 before succumbing to rust.

Poly will give a harsher ride, but it will handle slightly better. You do need to make sure they are well lubed or they will squeak. If you just want the easiest option, new control arms are the way to go.

Yeah I definitely didn't leave it in a jug of ATF. I wonder if it would suck it in and flush itself? Regardless, that original trans ran fine for 6 more years until I sold the truck to my friend for his farm as it was rotted to fskc.

I feel like most people here have never worked on other makes before...The VG is actually extremely easy to work on for an fuel injected motor. Try working on some german cars, or most domestics with their overly complicated crap. You could just pull the intake, chances are the valve cover gaskets are leaking anyway and could be replaced at the same time.

It fits snug. I lost my 27mm socket apparently so I have been using that when doing VG timing belts. And I have done quite a few in the last while, lol. I'm doing well now, on some new meds so I can actually live and work, what about you?

1 1/16" also fits the crank pulley bolt.

According to this thread it is just over 6 quarts but I think that is just a drain and fill. You can do a poor mans flush by taking the hoses off the cooler lines, putting them in a bucket, and then running the truck till it sputters, then refill and repeat. What I did was had my friend fill the fluid as it was pissing out of the line until we got fresh fluid all the time. This also changes the torque converter fluid. It is only messy if you let go of the hose, and it does use like 12 quarts of ATF.

The last person who flashed an LED bar at me got a report to the police as a drunk driver. Doesn't matter if it is true or not, they still follow up on it.

It has happened before. A way to resolve it is to put a spot of weld on the switch to build it up. Then it makes contact again.

Cannot say it enough. If you care about it, get it oil sprayed yearly.

I think I know what sound you're talking about. Mine does it. I'm 99% sure its due to a slight under or overcharge on the refrigerant. I am not an AC tech by any means, but I bought a vacuum pump on amazon, and a gauge set. It isn't too hard to work on yourself once you understand. I would charge it by pressure. And remember the pressure numbers in the FSM are what it should be with the engine running at 1200 or 1500 rpm, not idle.

Make sure the vacuum lines are good, they're probably all dry rotted from sitting. You could probably fire it up before touching the timing belt, but I wouldn't drive it around until it has been changed. If it breaks you will be looking at a top end rebuild. Fortunately out in BC rust is minimal compared to where I am so you should have lots of used parts available in the wrecking yards if you need them. I would also crank it a bunch with the fuel pump fuse and coil wire pulled to pump up some oil onto the cylinder walls and into the heads. I did this with an engine that had probably been sitting 15 years before I put it in my pathy.

You know if you call warn they will send you a maintenance/rebuild kit for free...

The tool was only 20 dollars for a kit that does different sizes. It is also good for removing stripped lugs so it is definitely worth having. I've only had to use it twice and now it has paid for itself.

You can buy the tool to remove the locking nuts at princess auto or harbour freight.

Yep, that's the brake cylinder sensor plug. Perhaps the sensor was always showing low and they unplugged it.

Yeah, that's a little too tight. But it should stretch in a bit. It will take quite a while though. Mine was over a year before I couldn't hear it anymore lol.

If the price of 350 dollars included the cost of the alternator, I would have went with that. It is a fair price IMO. And shops usually don't use cheap advance or autozone parts. Go at it from the bottom, you'll have to do the back bolt by feel, unless you have a body lift or small arms that can slide in between the inner fender and frame.

The territory was only available in Canada and they don't even make it anymore. The only choice is the duratrac or the authority. Personally I would not buy them again and I would get the KO2's instead. Much better tire. If you have 31x10.5 now you should replace withe the same size as you will lose ground clearance with the smaller tires, that and your speedometer will be off...

Or you could be not cheap and replace both...

http://sfcreation.com/ And he is in Canada too.

Here's something to try. Unplug the o2 sensor connection, and try driving it. It is on the tree of connectors near the fuel filter. It has 3 wires, 2 white, 1 black. Or the opposite. But it will be obvious as it isn't part of the transmission harness.