5523Pathfinder

After my drive home, I got to thinking. I should have stated that what you are posting is going to be read by other members. If you think something is inferior, you should have evidence as to back up your claim. Otherwise, you are not giving other people correct information and that is misleading. IAB's are a tried and proven way to help beef up your suspension. As is a GR centerlink. How about this, put your 2dw setup on and do some serious offroading. Document how things are holding up and share your experience. Until then, please think about what you post and how it may affect others. Oh, and UNCC is one of the hardest wheelers around here running his setup. Get to his level and then I will try and listen to what you have to say. And to throw in some info about me, I have just under 20 years of working on Nissans. I wont tell you I know everything, but I have worked on enough to know that some of the things you say dont hold water, as they say.

There is not more stress on the idler arm from the GR link. The problem is the balljoints loosen up over time and you get get play. Play allows thing to get out of a "correct" angle and things bend. the GR link has welded in bushings that stop this movement. I would challeng any one to post up a unmodified factory center link with good balljoints, showing it bent and how they bent it. Too many people around here who actually go off road, and have so for years, who have figured out the problem and addressed it. You are just beating a dead horse.

Im just gonna ring in here and say that my rig has been lifted, has over 100,000 post lift(212,xxx overall) and i have nver had a idler arm issue. I have a brace installed with my A/C lift. You are gonna have to be a bit more specific to the "design flaw" you speak of. People usually have issue when they have cranked thier tbars and did nothing to support it(call it the effects of lifting a IFS vehicle). Oh, and your forgot to add the Grassroots Center Link as a option(because it does help. Ask those who have installed one).

if its running rich, the O2 sensor is seeing a lean condition, telling the computer to add more fuel. There could be a actual problem, or the O2 sensor hasnt completely given up. The O2 senor basicly measures how many times the engine goes lean to rich and back again. There is a specific number of times this should happen at a certian rmp. If you were to tap into the O2 wiring and measured its signal with a Occiliscope, you would watch the wave form move up and down. The other twist is that it has to hit a certian voltage for both the lean and rich cycle. If it doesnt, usually(cause our rigs are older) it will not throw a code. A electrical failure is what usually turns the light on. If it was me, I would look around the engine back for vacuum leaks. Intake ducting after the MAF is what you are concerned about. This may be from a vacuum hose off or split, or a gasket that is not sealing. Also, you may want to check timing and be 100% sure its correct. This would also cause some lean/rich issues.

This is the Magnaflow muffler my younger brother had on his rig. Dual inlet, single outlet with a split tip. Please, dont mind the wheels(they got removed for 22's!). He had if for 4 years after that was installed and it was holding up very well.

The Grassroots CL is far from ghetto rigged nonsense. I purchased one over a year ago and my steering is doing just fine. I do have a idler arm brace from 4x4parts, and a stock steering stabilizer. Buying the GR CL and a idler brace is still way cheaper and you wont have to wait a year to get it.

If anyone is interested in picking up a copy, they can be found at Barnes and Noble bookstores. They are not widely distributed. I have a subscription, but our dealer is now part a participating partner, and we hand out free copies of the magazine(for you local guys...COME ON DOWN!!). If you visit a dealer on a regualr basis, the can sign up as well. I love that mag!

Hey, there you go! More infoe the better. Yeah, if its down to #2 cylinder, I would maybe try and flush the injectors. If you needed a injector, I would have to look it up and I could tell you a litte more tomorrow. When you did the tune up, what kind of parts did you use?

Well, similar to seafoam, depends on how you installed it. One thing I forgot to ask, when was the last tune up done? Plugs, cap, rotor and stuff? That could be important. If your gutsy enough, you could pull a plug wire(at the spark plug) while its missing and see if any cylinder has no difference(its called a power balance test). You can isolate what cylinder is having the issue that way. If you do want to shoot up, just let me know with a couple of days notice so I know to bring the stuff home from work. I think you may want to try on your own to keep the cost down. Oh, and close, its Derek!

Ok Kyle, let me get this straight. You start it up and its fine. You drive to school(approx 6 miles) and its fine the whole way. You shut it off and let it sit for 6 hours(appox). Then you get in and drive(how long?)then it begins to studder, right? It happens at low speed and RPM, not so much high rpm? I am leaning toward a cold soak issue. I think maybe you have carbon buildup on your valves and injectors and its soaking up unburned fuel. This will cause a issue with combustion. Here is what I would like you to dtry and do, two things actually. First, if you want to drive up here to Rochester next weekend, I will try and round up some chemicals to clean your injectors and intake. I will hook them up and clean both the fuel injectors and the entire intake system. IF you dont want to wait, go down to the local parts store. Buy a can of carb and choke cleaner(make sure its sensor safe). On the intake tube just after the air flow meter, there is a small hose that hooks up. Grab a small chunk of hoseand attach it here. Connect the other end to the straw on the spray can. Start your rig and let it warm up(you could do this first). With one hand you need to rev the engine a bit(not real high), and the other you need to spray the cleaner in. It should stumble a little bit, only stop if it tries to die. Keep reving and use the whole can. Once the can is gone, shut off the engine, hook up the vacuum line again. Start the engine and rev it up to 4-5000 rpm a few times. You should see some smoke come out from the tailpipe(but sure not to point it at open doors or windows). Then take it for a drive. Push the OD off button as you want the engine to rev a bit higher. You need to drive it kind of hard(be safe please). This should only take a few minutes for the smoke to stop. Once it does, drive normally for a few minutes. Now, due to your specific conditions as stated earlier, you may have to wait until you can reproduce those conditions. Let me know what you do.

I have never had mine "fall" out. I hav ran through about 3 sets due to rock damage from running up and down the freeway.

Bosch fog lamp # 1 305 354 945 485 507 I cant remember where I got the number from. I found it when I needed to replace one of mine the last time. My parts department ended up finding a facotry one for me.

The transmission cooler is not that difficult. Maybe a day in the driveway for someone less expierenced. I search for topics for more info to help you out.......... http://npora.ipbhost.com/index.php?app=core&module=search&section=search&do=search&fromsearch=1 (you may have to type in "transmission cooler", mark the box that says Search Titles only, then the Search Now button at the bottom) Its some reading, but good info from lots of different members.

Welcome to the board! Yeah, there is lots of good infor here to keep your 'Finder on the road for a long time. It sounds like you are loosing a speedo head. They are electrical speedometers, so no cable to loose. There is a sensor in your transfer case that sends a signal to the speedo, then on to the ECM. No signal passed speedo is why the check engine light came on. It is not a hard job at all. IIRC, its about 8 or so screws and the whole thing is out. Then you just pull it from the cluster assemlby(4 tiny screws) after removing the cluster. Unfortunatly, there is no aftermarket option available. You can order on from a dealer or see Vendors section for Genuine Nissan parts(Rob is a member here). If you chose to pull one form a junk yard, be sure the mileage is comparable, so you dont get into trouble with Johnny Law(check local laws in reguards to odometer statements). 95's did not take a special fluid. Nissan fluid is Matic-D, but is fairly close to most universal fluids. The best bet is to install a external cooler and bypass the cooler in the radiator(its what kills our autos), then have the whole system flushed. I run ATF in my transfer case. Some others run gear oil. I would stick with whatever comes out(if you can tell). Your front and rear axles should run 80-90w. You may want to check out the garage section for how-to's for more info, if you havent already.

Hold on a sec. The larger 2 connector relay is your inhibitor relay. The single plug smaller relay should be, iirc, the defroster relay. If you are trying to jump the defroster relay, thats not going to work. You want to jump the Black/Yellow and Black/Pink wires, as stated above. You might just want to grab a new relay. Last time I checked they were under $20.

Fixed fuel door opening spring. I think it got jared from having branches hitting it during the last storm. Had to bend the spring so it wouldnt hook on the hinge. Lubed the hinge and the lock actuator and cable. Works perfectly now. Also straightend and lubed power antenna mast so it would extend and retract properly after also getting bent by a branch.

How about you just peek down at the front cover bolts and see if they have fresh tool marks on them? See if there is any evidence a cam seal is leaking(it will buildup with dust usually on the right side, next to the water pump). A good wrench would of cleaned it off during the job. I usually put the sticker on the rad support also, but I have found them on the hood, distributor cap, P/S resevior, upper timing cover, fan shroud, firewall and even found one on the LF door jamb. The sticker(if the belt was from nissan) is silver and there is a place to put mileage and the date it was replaced. It impresses and stays even if the ink is washed off.

The good thing is that you live in the NW. There are lots of fab shops that can knock something out for you if you choose. Just gotta look around and ask a few questions.

I do believe they used to be under the name of Kennesaw Mountian Accesoriess? Fab? Products? something like that. Anyways, some have had ok experiences with them, others not so well. Poor turn around time. Poor welds, Poor customer service, as a few examples. You might want to search a bit before deciding, just to be on the safe side. No, I dont have one and have never delt with the directly. This is what I remember from previous members posting. Do yourself a favor and do a Google search and see what you come up with. I did. You may not like what you find.

Did you look for vacuum leaks? I know when the small vacuum hose on the back of the intake boot spilt, mine did some whierd stuff. Might also be the IAC valve. You can check it by disconnecting one of the connectors near the distributor, then start it up. If it wont idle, you can try and adjusting it(look right over the top of the brake master cylinder from the left fender). You may also have some carbon issues on the valves.

The ecm reprogram is designed to work with the new type sensor. Not too sure if you will still have issues if you use a aftermarket sensor. Oh, the dealer will not reprogram the ecu for free. They should charge you one hour for reprogramming. They may want to charge you diagnosis, but tell them you just want the reprogramming per the TSB. Make sure you get the ECM part numbers before and after the reprogramming(a good tech will attach it to the repair order. Have them make copies for you). That way if you ever have issues in the future, you know the ecu has been updated.

Patrol, if I could get one here. For those who may not have been around long enough, you should check out the videos posted by memeber Iron Locust... http://npora.ipbhost.com/index.php?showuser=1160 Go to "Find my content" for his videos. Thats just few. Search the videos for more.

There is a TSB for that code....

Inhibitor relay by th battery, smack it while trying to start it. Blue, two connector relay

I would probably be good for one (3in).