5523Pathfinder

Just remember to go drive it kind of hard for a few minutes after you do the service. This will provide the smoke show and will help strip the rest of the gunk out.

Here it is.... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/31832-making-it-run-like-new/#entry600196

I posted some info about cleaning my intake a while back, but I can't find the thread. I perform the throttle body and intake cleaning on a regular basis. Here are the photos I took... That was the throttle body before cleaning. Here is a shot down the intake... And both after cleaning... I used, and love, the BG products. The system pressurizes the intake cleaner and is shot right in front of the throttle body. They also have some in a small spray can you can use to blow the crap off of the throttle body. I will note that when I did this, I also used the 3M injector cleaner thought the injectors. I use chevron fuel 95% of the time. The two services made a huge difference in power and overall run ability. Here is the BG system, but not a great photo.. (I know the pictures are crappy. I borrowed a friends camera and didn't set it up to take better close ups. Sorry) Yes, carbon buildup is a issue on the VG motor. You have got to clean that stuff off. I will try and find my previous thread.

Some are supposedly made in china. Some of the issues also have to due with what battery is used where and for what application. Getting the right battery with pleanty of cold cranking amps is key. Cheap is not better.

I have a red top optima in my rig. I swiped it out of a used car(Xterra) over 7 years ago. I have had absolutely no issues in that time. I have only a few extra added electrical items(stereo, cb, ect). It handles everything I have thrown at it. I don't really recommend a deep cycle battery, as they operate differently than a regular battery. Unless you have lots of load on it, your just going to kill if faster than its designed for.

Most loose power due to the lack of scavaging. That's what a X or H pipe is for. Unfortunately, you need almost equal length pipe from each side to where the X or H is. Hard to do on our rigs. Plus, as stated, you won't gain much. Increasing the pipe size a smidge and a decent sounding muffler is probably a better way to go. Paths just weren't made for speed.

The first question you need to ask yourself is.."what do I want to do with this vehicle"? Is it going on trails, light or difficult? Towing, mall crawling, multipurpose daily driver? I say this jokingly, but you can forget about a body lift!(2000's have no frame, unibody!). If you are not sure, you should browse the Members rides section at the bottom of the main page. Some people do different things so it's nice to. Get a different perspective on things. Otherwise, a good tire will do a lot for you.

The bottom end is junk? You need to do more reading. The vg bottom end will hold as long as it has been taken care of. If you don't get carried away with the boost, you will be fine. There are a few members who have attempted turbo turbo installs. It's not easy, but as others showed, it can be done. Like any engine, if it has higher mileage, boosting is probably not a good idea without a rebuild.

Try disconnecting the MAF sensor. This will put it in limp mode. You can drive it, but will be limited. See if it continues to die. If not, it's probably the MAF sensor. Otherwise, double check the timing and somewhere there is a TSB on how to adjust the TPS correctly, so you can do it yourself and save some money. Idle air control solenoid may also be having issue.

I just had my sunroof out and repaired the seal. It was loose in the front and flapping in the wind. Gotta love 3m weatherstrip adhesive!

I would recommend this the next time for paper gaskets and such... http://www.gasgacinch.com/index.htm I have used that stuff for years at work and on my own rig.

See what kind of warranty come with them. Some offer lifetime replacement, so it can work out well if you offroad a bunch. If you dont, then i wouldnt worry about what brand you get too much. Otherwise, try to stay away from Chinese crap

Yes, the hub size is different. You can have them bored out, you won't be able to use the center cap.

Yeah, I did the same thing when I di mine. Missed the driveshaft hoop. As a added bonus, I crushed a sport in the rocker panel doing so(I was using the lift at work). I used some spacers and longer bolts to even my seats out. Otherwise, I'm not to worried about if.

Yep, it's factory like that. Early 2000's cost cutting to stay afloat.

Be sure to check your oil level. Lack of oil, or changes, can cause issues. You can remove the sensors and see if there is any buildup on the face. You can get lucky by just wiping them off, or just replace them and get it over with. Pretty common problem, but not a big deal.

Aftermarket warranties are hit and miss. Those offered by Nissan are much better. More or less a extension of the factory warranty. What you need to ask yourself is "How long am I going to keep this vehicle?". If you are one of those who changes cars all the time, then they are not for you. Next thing is to do your homework on the vehicle you want to buy. Search reviews, Internet forums,ask friends and family. On the other side of those warranties, they do tend to rip people, and the techs working on your vehicle, off. I hate having to deal with them. In some cases they have paid less than factory warranty and don't pay to have problems diagnosed. What I recommend to people is to start a vehicle savings account. Start the account when you buy the car. Have money automaticly deposited into the account. As it builds, you can use the money for larger services or repairs as needed. If the situation ever occurs and the car is gone, then you can use the money you have saved for whatever, or roll it into the next car.

If you rebuild your axles, be sure to due both boots on each axle. Almost all aftermarket CV's are Nissan axles anyways. Nissan axles are tough, but damage is damage. I have rebuilt my axles several times after off roading. For $20 more bucks, I just put in new axles(rebuilt). Nice part is, the place I got them from has a lifetime warranty on the boots and CV's! Most places offer this, so shop around!

My buddies Cherokee has a similar problem. He needs a new park neutral position switch. You can jump the starter relay over on the right fender. You can also try and see if it starts in a different position besides park.

Sounds like there is air in the system yet, maybe it wasn't bench bled. Bleed all four corners and recheck it.

I'm going with loose wheel bearing too. Grab the wheel, once jacked up, check the play putting your hands at the 12 and 6 o'clock positions and move it back and fourth. Normally, there should be no play.

Uh, he said engine oil pan guys. No, you don't have to remove the trans to remove the engine oil pan. You will need to remove the front diff to get it out. Not a hard job, but you will need a extra pair of hands. Others might recommend removing the whole engine, but that's overkill in my book.

Here is a thread you might want to check out...... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/20030-newbie-cb-radios/

I have never damaged a single factory nerf bar..............I wiped out both, plus a hand-me-down! Yeah as stated, they rot out from the inside. They are thin walled and hollow. Not exactly safe to use as a jacking point. IF you have a high lift, just get the bumper or wheel lug attachement. They work much better. If you are going on the trail alot, yeah, get some sliders.

I found on my rig, shortly after I got it, that the previous owner had the exhaust manifolds repaired. Unfortunatly it didnt last long. I went in to repari adn found whoever repaired it, cut slits in the body to bend the sheet metal to they could gain access to work. They didnt put it back or anything. Oh, and they had to drill out a stud I found and were a bit off center, creating a issue with new studs going in. I fixed it and just shook my head.