5523Pathfinder

Now why are you getting rid of this one? I thought it was the version you really wanted. BTW, a solid jeep is going to cost you more money, a subaru...well....do you like doing headgaskets? Maxima? Still going to have to put money into it....

That could of been the case, sure. Most likely, he just had a sensor go out. I dont know about were you live, but here the amount of sulfer in fuel is not regulated. There are usually stickers on the gas pumps but they dont change very often. I know I can smell a bit of sulfer once in a while from a Pilot station I used to get fuel from(I am now boycotting them due to fraud). When I use Chevron, I dont smell it at all. There are actual differences in fuels(companies, refiners, ect). When the smell is real bad, it can be that the vehicle is not running correctly. Most of the time, the vehicle just needs to be repaired and the smell will go away. If left unrepaired, thats when damage to the Cat can happen.

There was a TSB about water getting into the connector and causing issues. You might want to inspect it and make sure there is no corrosion. I would just replace it with a quality unit and be done with it.

yep

A heated O2 sensor has a small "heater" built into it. Usually they are 3-4 wire sensors. This allows the sensor to heat up quicker and read your Air-Fuel mixture better(AKA- get out of open loop quicker)

Probably the best way is to jack up the back of the truck and support the axle with stands. Make sure the rear tires are not touching the ground. You should have it in 2wd and have someone run the speed up to where you normally hear the noise. Underneath you will need to listen with some kind of listening device. A really long screwdriver works really well(some would use a stethascope). Put one end in your ear(handle is best) and the other on, or near the bearing on some non-moving metal. If the noise is loud, you got a winner.

All WD21s had a one piece shaft and most hardbodys had two piece.

This is on your pickup right? Extended cab? Im thinking carrier bearing on the rear driveshaft.

Yeah, get that front end up as high as you can! Well, about 3 feet up is the best. Place a funnel at the top of the radiator and fill. You need to let it run once you have the system filled. Its got to get to operating temp so the T-stat will open. You can rev the engine a few times to help it burp. Lower it down and keep watching for bubbles.

It doesnt create a vacuum leak, it uses backpressure to open the EGR during cruise when backpressure is at optimal(not under load). This allows exhaust gasses to be recirculated to reduce emission, specifically NOX.

From the 94 manual...

You should have a evap control valve up on the left strut tower. There is a large rubber hose that attaches and goes back to the evap system. Pull that hosee off and see if any charcoal beads come out. If they do, you need to clean the system by disconnecting as hoses to get the stuff out. The beads are from the charcoal canister in the back. They can get sucked up all the way to the engine and get lodged in the evap system valves and solenoids along the way. Im pretty sure its been posted about before.

Oh yeah, Nissan parts and labor are covered 12 months/12,000 miles when performed/installed at the dealer. If something fails, you can take it to any nissan dealer.

I forgot to add that you should look for a tech, not so much the facility, that has some credentials. Any monkey can pick up a wrench and call themselves a mechanic. That same monkey can F up your rig really bad. Dealers/Manufactures have ongoing training, and some, if not most private shops have access to training(Delco, Snap-on, ect). Any trained tech should be happy to show you what he has for certification and training(think like a Dr. office, or Lawyer. Yeah its on the wall for a reason).

As the well known dealer technician around here, this is more than whether a dealer or quick lube is the best choice. If you prefer not to work on your own rig, or just dont have the knowledge to perform maintenence or repairs, you need to pick a repair facility and get to know the person working on your vehicle. I try to connect personally with as many customers as I can. Its liek going to your doctor. You want to build a relationship with this person so you can feel reassured that they know what they are doing. At the dealer, the chance of a Master tech working on your vehicle for just a oil change, is going to be slim. That is, unless you as for it! No repair facility wants thier highest paid person doing oil changes. The thing is, and I will use myself as a example, I know what to look for on your vehicle. Years of experience have given me a trained eye and ear to find the things that are going wrong or will soon fail that every customer needs to be informed of. Who are you going to blame if someone misses something on a inspection and then something bad happens? Yeah, me. So I will try and look at as many things as possible in a timely manner. I cant find everything. But I will look for things that may be a safety issue or the like. Just because I may bring a list of needed repairs/maintenence, doesnt mean you have to have the work performed there. I just want you to be informed of what is needed. I then have to hope you trust me and come back. If you have questions, I want you to ask them. I am more than willing to point out things that are needed, in person. I will walk you out to your rig and show you things and explain why and what will correct it. Also, it never hurts to ask for your old parts back(I tend not to throw things away until the customer is paid and gone ust in case)! What im getting at here is that a quick lube place will not do this. Heck, here we have a quick lube place where you can sit in your car and watch monitors of the guys working on your rig. Unfortunalty, this still doesnt stop them from doing things wrong. Next time you visit one of these places, before you pull in, check your fluid levels, filters, ect, and make sure they are doing what you are paying for. Oh, are they going to check your tire pressure? They need to go by the recommended air pressure sticker on the car, not on the tire. Anyways, I do not recommend quick lube places. Too many replaced engines, overfilled engines, lack of topped off fluids, overfilled tires, spilled oil not cleaned up, I could go on and on. Quick lube places are no place to learn how to work on vehicles.

Changed the front and rear diff fluids and the transfer case fluid. Had to make sure nothing got in from playing in the water! All was good. Also cleaned his windows and changed the both rear brake light bulbs.

I think 17's are now the common offroad tire size.

The center of the hub wont fit. You have to have it bored out to clear the hub. I have seen this done either at a machine shop or I had seen a guy to it with a router and a special bit. I had a 91 hardbody and put the stock 18's from a QX56(different wheel than the Titan). I did a bunch of research on how to make them fit. It is not a bolt on swap. If you did bore them out, yeah, you might rub. Not many have done it so you might be a guinea pig! Here is some info(note- this is not 4x4 friendly).......... http://infamousnissan.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11646

If you do clean the engine and get the distributor wet, a can of WD-40 will get you on your way. I have cleaned my engine bay(as well as others) with little problem. The key is not to stay in one area too long. Spraying in the same spot will just push water into electrical connectors and flood plug holes. You just need to be careful. Having some compressed air around afterward is nice to push the left over water away.

Thats right from the manual. I recommend downloading one. Just use the search function to find it(link).

Here is a quick pic of our setup(sorry for the crappy pic quality).... There is no prices on any of the parts in the kit. New pieces can be ordered through the parts department.

Some connectors are available, but not all. In the service department, they should have a master wiring repair kit. It contains many common connectors as well as the pins inside of them. There are some pigtail harnesses also. Just gotta talk to the right people. Parts guys usually dont have knowledge of this kit.

This is the "kit" I used. Im sure you should be able to find something/someone here... http://www.bgfindashop.com/locator/index.php

I used two cans of the Air Intake System Cleaner part no. 206 in the apperatice. One can of 44K in the tank. Yeah, we were taught by the BG rep years ago not to add the 44K to the tank when fuel is low, unless the customer fills up the tank immeidiatly. It is supposed to mix and treat the fuel. I have heard of people trying to run the 44K on a low tank and having issues. It is a cleaner afterall. Like I said originally, I have used the BG stuff several times before and results were fantasic. Though I do think the fuel injector flush is was got me over the top.