5523Pathfinder

Yes I do! This was during the body lift....

Aint it supposed to do that with the hover conversion?!!!!

OK, a slight brain fart. The TSB does not apply to R50's, sorry, I jumped the gun. As you describe the fluid though, it sounds like things have gotten a bit wet. Of course, no maintenence is a killer on anything. I think you still need a rebuild/new transmission. There are some Nissan only wreckers out there. Here in washington, there is Feltons auto Parts, in Snohomish county.

well, pull the front seats and the carpet, remove the shifter mount plate bolts, and fill'er up. Pray it helps you along for a while. I had the same issue cause someone put the wrong fluid in before i got him.

Here is the thread with the TSB.... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=2621

Ok, got a few differentl things going on here. If you clutch is slipping, you should see a rise in RPM under accleration, but have low or no vehicle movement. If you you have a whining noise, it may be a bearing. Now, you stated that you drained and refilled the transmission? How much fluid did you put in, and what type of fluid did you put in? Our manual transmissions need to be overfilled if they have not been rebuilt with updated parts. You can research this in the Garage section. It is possible that you have a throwout bearing going out. It will create the whine noise you stated. But, here is the kicker, you may also have a main bearing going out inside of the transmission. Most will verify this by noticing noise in 1-2-3, but not fourth. If so, you may need a trans rebuild, or new unit. Oh, the fluid you install should be GL4 rated, not GL5.

Humm, Intersting article. I have done both when I am out wheeling. I had to learn how my rig reacts on different terrain. for the first couple of years, I never aired down. I attruibute this to having a locker and giving me traction when I needed it. Also, I have allowed myself to go after more and more difficult obstacles as I got more comfortable with my rig, and got it tuned to the stuff I normally go play in. Now that being said, I have never needed to air down in sand. I run a BFG M/T, and never saw the need for it. Of course, I am cautious about where I tread. I try to stay on hardpack, or at least make sure I have 4WD ready. I have seen many people get stuck and were able to air down some and get the tration they need. As far as mud goes, I have just recently got more into airing down. I was very afraid of damaging a wheel or having the bead pop. Matter of fact, the one time I had a tree root go inbetween my wheel and tire, I was a full pressure. I was a bit confused how this happened. I approched that same area again(different outing), and I was aired down to 15 psi. I was able to position my rig better to miss the obstacle, due to better traction. I do not drive fast when aired down. I watch my tires as they conform to the object I am encountering(its cool to watch). As far as deep mud, well again, Im not sure if it was the tires or my locker helping me. OH, and I would probably not air down below 10psi unless I had beadlocks installed. On the road, I stick with about 28psi. The sidewalls of my tires are stiff, so any loss of pressure is not immediatly noticed(say as with a street tire). My last set of BFG's lasted almost 70,000 miles(Installed around 115k, removed at 186k). I always check my tire wear and make sure nothing is out of whack(alignment, bearings, balljoints, ect). Hope this helps.

Go to Youtube and search my screen name(5523pathfinder). A lot of our members post there. You can also check the Pictures and Videos section!

Are you a 5 speed? Smack the Inhibitor relay by the battery(big blue relay), while someone else cranks it over. Pretty common failure. If its a automatic, there is a writeup in the grage section I do belive on doing some rewiring to the starter. You can also try smacking the starter when cranking over, that will tell you its the starter(or you can check for power to the solenoid).

My parts managers FJ has had a lot of problems. Some were fixed under warranty, some not. Of recent, he had the rear diff try to eat itself(not warranty). Just a FYI.

As stated many times before, that Grassroots centerlink is worth every penny. I suggest going to the local JY and getting a stock link to send to him so your rig doesnt have to be down for very long.

I have seen several aftermarket belts break way before the time interval was up. Stick with a factory belt. Plus, they have the lines on them to help you line everything up!

Yeah, that would be cool. I guess a dual-purpose daily driver is not as exciting. Especially when driving down the freeway.

and there it is..... I have been able to go passed 100,000 and 200,000 since I bought him!

Can you isolate it to one cylinder? Do a power balance test by pulling a plug wire(or injector connector) while its running. Be careful not to get shocked. If one cylinder has no/little change, focus on things for that cylinder(spark plug, wire, injector, vac leaks, ect).

Wierd, eveyone that I have ever test has always been the same. Matter of fact, the original TSB is what I used when I had to diagnois mine when it decided to flip out. I actually scanned my own TSB from a old folder I had. I will see what I can find.

Gotta like "Expression of design" factor. I would wheel it also. Some evergreen pinstriping on that thing and it would be boss....

That link says there is no image. No worries. I have used that same adapter many times. Works great for a basic install. Here is the one I used in another vehicle... If you upgrade your system, bypassing the amp and going to a stand alone 4ch amp is a much better idea, and it will sound way better. Im still running the factory amp and speakers and they are doing just fine. Getting a little crackly, but im not trying to win sound competions.

Homie got a bath. He needed it bad.

I would rock a R51. They are more versital thand people think. Oh, has anyone who has a WD or caR50 ever driven a R51 off road? This thread is not about choosing between a WD and the others, but what would you move up to? I like the 4.0. Maybe I stay away from a 05 model, but I like it.

Was it in the glovebox? thats the most popular place to put it when doing some water activities. There is no math in the world that would support that. At least the new guy posted a picture, and was fairly clear about what he was asking. He did not start this thread to help his no start, just wanted to know what he was looking at. No worries man! Good luck getting it running and if you need more help, just ask!

If you bought it not running, checking out the ECM may not be a bad idea on a place to start. There are a few members who have tried the submarine modification around here. Lets just say it didnt work out too well!

Ok, ok, no need to get in a pissing match. OP, what you were questioning, was not much of a SEARCH situation. There are some questions that are asked, such as, how do I lift my pathfinder?, that have been asked too many times to count. A quick search and someone may of found the answer that they needed. Your question was a bit more difficult and you would of searched for days and possibly missed it. Sometimes searching is the correct response and if it applied, it would of been a good suggestion. That way, unuseful posts dont clutter a good thread. It makes sense that it was moved so water didnt interfere with it. Im wondering the the ECU that is under the passenger seat was moved also?

Always with informative information! Good Job! Anyway, it appears to the the VSS control module(keyless entry/security system). It is supposed to be mounted under the drivers seat, but maybe somewhere someone got lazy. Look at it here....post #7 shows it... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=19755