5523Pathfinder

Most stuff I use usually comes from my work. [*]Fluids Engine Oil - Kendall Synthetic Blend 5w-30 Coolant - Service Pro Long life ATF - MTF - Redline GL-4 Brake Fluid - Service Pro super heavy duty Brake Fluid Power Steering Fluid - BG Semi-synthetic Front Diff - 75-90 (supplied in bulk by Motor Oil Supply) Rear Diff - 75-90 (supplied in bulk by Motor Oil Supply) Transfer Case - Valvoline Max Life [*]Filters Oil Filter - Nissan filter 15208-55y00 Air Filter - K & N Pop Charger In-Cabin Air Filter - Fuel Filter - Nissan ATF Filter - [*]Change intervals Fluids Engine Oil - 3500-4000 miles Coolant - I have only changed it once, and thats when I put my timing belt on(6-7years ago) ATF - MTF - Changed when I put my new trans in. I may change it once its been in for 100k miles Brake Fluid - I flush every 15-20,000 miles Power Steering Fluid - When I get the chance or every 50k Front Diff - 30-60k h Rear Diff - 30-60k Transfer Case - 30k [*]Filters Oil Filter - Every oil change Air Filter - Clean about evey 15-20 miles(or after wheeling!) In-Cabin Air Filter - Fuel Filter - 30k ATF Filter - Gotta like working in the industry, keeps costs down! I do like my Nissan stuff as its performed better than anything else.

The logo is just a skicker that they sent me. Its not put on by them. I am not a big sticker guy, but I figured they pushed my order along and gave me a deal on a few things, so I put it on. Yes, mine has some chipping. But that is from wheeling and daily driving. If I so chose, I would have it powdercoated again. Im not to worried about it right now. It was powdercoated grey when I got it. I thought that was nice because it matched my paint!

It is supposed to work with non-lifted rigs as well. I guess I dont know exactly because I put it on after the body lift.

Well, AFAIK, the original Terrano and Pathfinder are the same truck. You lucky buggers get to have a diesel option. I cant see why the balljoints would be any different. Some manufacturers may be a bit different(size, material, greasable, ect).

There are several threads that have covered this very topic. Try searching CB radio, CB location, CB mount, ect. Here is the one with, what I think, is the best all around info.... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=20030&st=0&p=344381&hl="cb%20radio"&fromsearch=1entry344381

Oh, here we go..... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=7948&st=0&p=312900&hl="cb%20mount"&fromsearch=1entry312900 http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=9329&st=0&p=130644&hl="cb%20location"&fromsearch=1entry130644 http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=20030&st=0&p=344381&hl="cb%20radio"&fromsearch=1entry344381 Hope these help!

I mounted mine in the center console. I dont really use the compartment for storage, and I wanted to keep it concealed. Remember to keep the coax cable away from any control units(electrical feedback, ect). I have a couple of pics in my build thread. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=17128&st=0 Go to post #19 on the first page. Gives you a idea on how I did everything. Oh, there is another thread that was floated around not to long ago, on where everyone mounted thier cb's. Try searching a bit and you might find it(General topics section?). There is a lot of people to rang into that one.

Ok, mine has been on a while(somewhere in the realm of 6 years). I thought I had better pics, but I cant find them. So I went and took a few with my cell. Sorry they are not the greatest, but hopefully give you a idea! I might have another in my build thread. If you have more questions, just let me know!

I have the 4x4parts front skid plate. Yes, it does go up and cover the now exposed frame in the front. Its thick, I have bounced off a few things and barely left a scratch in it. The only thing I dont like is that the rear bolts down on the crossmember in the factory mount bolts holes, and there is no protection for the bolt heads. If you see a lot of time on rocks you might want to weld on some washers or some kind of protection for the bolts. Other than that, it works great! I think I have a pic somewhere......

Well, your explination is pretty general. You may want to check for codes again, as another may have set besides your O2 having issues. Next time it doesnt start, check your basics, fuel-spark-air. Have you done any recent maintenence? How many miles are on it? Look for anything else that may give a clue(ie:dash lights, noise, ect).

How tight are you getting the belt? Are you maxed out? Our belts due tend to run on the tighter side. You can give the fan a spin by hand and see if its binding/not moving at all.

How much oil did you put in? Overfilling could cause a bunch of different issues.

OH yeah, they will work for the summer/rain. They have Nitto 555's on em if I remember correctly. I will swap em out in October or so.

No! A customer didnt like his wheels anymore. They were curbed up and slightly bent. He bought a new set, left his old ones behind. A few minutes working on the bend, some cleaning and polishing, and bang!....a free set of 20's. The are Venettis(?). Black with a chrome lip/dish. They look better than the factory steelies with crappy hubcaps and one of those missing.

Gave him the day off. So I came to work in the Quest..........and dropped some 20's on that b#@%h!

Its hard to blame Nissan for something that is put on roads and is known to eat steel. Im near the ocean, but I dont drive in it.

Yep no frame rusting issues. Just body and structural rusting issues(see recall).

I got a new windshield on Friday. Ok well, my buddy got it for me for my birthday! I had a crack crossing the entire lenth of it. I think maybe it was bothering him as we carpool to work! Oh, I also pulled all the U-joint screws and pumped 'em full of grease!

Oh yeah, that temp sensor for the gauge may have issues as well. I usually try and replace both as a precaution.

Nissan has always been very "tight" with the parameters set during engineering. Even today, we do reprograms that basicly widen those parameters and everything is fine. Things are way more touchy now.

Yeah, double check the sensor for the gauge and make sure you didnt know it off somehow. As the engine warms up, you should be able to touch the radiator hoses(when warm), but not really keep your hand there. If the Thermostat is stuck closed, one hose will get much hotter than the other. Do you know when, or if, the thermostat has been replaced? Its a easy job and you can drain the cooling system and refill with new fluid while you are at it. Sounds like you are getting there!

Its a little hard to tell. Currently the bulliten is now updated with a repair. There are specific areas that the reparis apply to. This does not mean you get a whole new fender tower!!! For those without rust, the area will be prepped and undercoated as needed. I would ask your dealer if they have read the updated bulliten and point out the specific areas of repair.

Lets just cut to the nitty gritty here. There is no bolt-on and go, supercharger "kit". There have been several attempts by people, even one trying to market it(bad business failed). Because it is custom, its very hard to put a flat price on this mod. I do know that the Xterra/Frontier ECU will not just plug right in. There are some companies that do a computer upgrade that is a plug and play. They will even tune it for you depending upon what modifications you have. Now, Im not sayin it lcant be done(the supercharger), but it may not be as cheap as you are hoping for. Oh, and I like the idea of getting the motor, trans, wiring harness, ecu, and whatever else you need out of a doner vehile and drop it in. This is what I would like to do someday if needed.

Yes, the Head temp sensor is the engine temp sensor. Dont get confused with the temp gauge sensor, thats for yoru dash gauge. The other is for the ECM. Yes, you can check for bubbles in the cooling system, but are you sure the bubbles are spent exhaust? Thats what a Block Tester is for. It will discolor if exhaust gases are present. I would still pull the sensor and test it. Drop it in a cup of hot water with a multimeter attached. IIRC, resistance should decrease as temp goes up.

Well, the best way to get to the bottom of it, is to do some testing. You can pull the spark plugs and see if any buildup has occured. A cylinder leakdown test or a block tester(to see if exhaust is coming through the cooling system) can be sued to diagnois a possilbe headgasket. Also look for discolored oil and coolant in case they have mixed. If coolant was getting into the combustion chamber, you may see white "smoke" from your exhaust. This would happen alot, not just during and after startup.