5523Pathfinder

Best thing to do is read up!!!!! http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=20711

Just did my first inspection on a QX4. It was pretty easy to inspect. Yes, the TSB does state that we are to hold your vehicle if we find excessive rust. The one I did was perfect and it ahd 160,000 miles on it. If you want to take a look yourself, look in at the strut over the left front wheel. Look at the unibody behind the spring. You are looking near the top for rust, then look straight down at the bottom of the unibody and look for rust flaking. The other area to look is at the front of the strut tower just behind the air box. Look to see if the panels have seperated and ar coming in contact with the steering shaft. Yes, you may loose your vehicle if you take it in, so I would check ahead of time.

Um, the VVT solenoid is not $30. Try around $265 each retail. If both were having issues, you may want to keep a eye on your oil level. There have been some reports of oil consumption with the 3.5l. The valve timing sensors are a bit cheaper. Do you know what code it threw?

The oil level sending unit does not have a individual fuse. The circuit runs from the sensor to the cluster, passing through a few large connectors. You could do a continutiy test from the cluster to the switch. I would pull the cluster and check the bulb first. Of course, its possible the system had just enough pressure to keep the switch acitivated, as it is a on/off type switch.

Its all a question of how much you want to learn. If you are going to dive deep, you need to know theroy. Knowing how a system works will help you diagnois and repair things. In general, a good repair manual will usually walk you through the steps. I went to school to learn and have continued from there. You can read the writeups here in the garage section and they will help. Some have pics and video, some will "talk" you through a repair or fix.

Keep looking its there. I cant find a pic at the moment of how the harness is routed. I know the wire goes in the harness near the starter lead. If its missing, someone really fuggered something up.

You should be albe to find the sensor harness in the starter wiring harness as the sensor sits just above the starter. Of course, it is only one wire. I will see what I can find for a pic. Out of curiosity, where did you take your rig to?

Man! Have we been down this road before!!! Im going to try and not make this a pissing match, but yet throw out some real facts. Ok, with any repair facility, you should get you know the technician/mechanic that is or will be working on your vehicle. I say its a good thing to build a relationship so you can trust them with your vehicle. Independent repair shops hourly rates are quicly catching dealers because vehicle are much more technical than they used to be. Does this make it harder to work on said vehicles. Yes and no. Onboard diagnostics have come a long way. There are specific codes that all makers use to help you fix a vehicle. There are also some codes that are dealer specific that may require special tools to repair. These special tools are what cost so much. But, the tools are useless if they are in hands of someone who does not know how to use them. Codes do not always mean failed part!!! Most dealers, and all the ones I have worked for, have always backed thier work with a 1yr/12,000 mile warranty on parts and labor. The nice thing is that warranty follows you if you have moved or are away from your home dealer. I do not know(maybe someone else does)of any independent repair shop that can offer that. Now, as far as parts go, look down at the bottom of your work order. Dealers will normally state that factory parts are always used unless they are unavailable or they are instructed otherwise. If you want aftermaket parts, you usually have to sign or initial stating so. It is hard for dealers to guarntee someone elses parts, as they may not be made to exacting standards. Independant repair shops can get factory parts. As with any part, there is a markup. Aftermaket parts that are cheaper, usually have a larger profit margin, compared to factory parts. In some cases, a factory part may be the only way to go. Labor rates are always going to differ, dealer or aftermaket. Why they difference? Well that may be due to several reasons. Dealers are paid a certian amount per hour to perform warranty work. They are also only paid so much by service contracts and extended warranties. But, they are also paying to the best equipment and keep thier technicians trained and up to date with the newest technology. Some independents do some of this also, but its difficult and expensive. Most dealer trained techs tend to stay with the vehicle line they are most trained in, and once in a while they change. Some independent mechanics may jump around from shop to shop and you may not be sure what they know, and how they will treat your vehicle. Ok, now from a personal view. I work as a dealer technician, and have for over 16 years. I am a ASE Master tech, as well as a Infiniti Master tech. I have only worked at 3 dealers my entire time in this field. I have seen and repaired a lot of other peoples attepted repairs that will just shock you. I take a lot of pride in what I do, knowing that people are paying a premium to come to me, or to my dealer. Does everyone I work with feel that way? No, not all. But a majority do. I believe I am representing 3 idenities at all times. Myself, Nissan/Infiniti and the dealer I work for. Make anyone of them look bad, and you make them all look bad. Customers will go somewhere else. I do what I can to explain my repairs and why they need them, and hope to build a relationship and trust. I know what to expect from our vehicles because I have seen what the difference is between a car that has been maintained, and one that has not. Ok, I will get off my soapbox now. Beleive me, dealers are not your enemy. You have the right to demand more from them. Really you should demand more from any repair facility. Money has to be made on some level. People deserve the best service as possible. In the end, we are all human, and we make mistakes. Some admit them and make the right. Some dont admit them and try to cover it up. Last but not least, I will say this... "I do not go to a Proctologist to have my teeth checked out!" P.S. If you havent noticed, I also highly support people doing it themselves. I try and make sure they know how to do it correctly so the repair lasts and they dont get hurt.

Put my original tire carrier back on, fully rebuilt! Man it works great! Now to rebuild the other....

Here is a crappy pic of what they look like. I was able to immediatly nail the alignment when I was done!

Wow. Just wow. Kyle, you can adjust the idle speed at the Idle Air Control Valve. You can see the adjustment screw if you stand on the left side of your engine bay and look right over the master cylinder. You have to disconnect the connector then start the engine. If you can bring it down, then there is no air leak. Also, check to make sure you throttle cables are no adjusted to tightly. This would cause the throttle valve to stay open slightly. The cables should have just a bit of slack. I would also double check with come carb cleaner for vacuum leaks, just to be on the safe side.

I just put all Moog components on my rig earlier this year(along with a Grassroots centerlink). They are bigger than stock and have grease fittings! They are great, and the price was right!

Changed the oil, rotated the tires(which barley seem to be wearing), and lubed up the front end. Had two grease zerks to install on the inner tie rods, but they are a bit too tall and get to close to the frame for my liking. So, I installed them, greased the joint, then reinstalled the plug. My next oil change will be due shortly after I pass 200,000 miles!

Your headlight switch isnt pushed forward turning on the brights, is it?

Its basicly the same thing as when they recalled the fuel necks. I have only replaced one in my time, and that includes Pathfinders and QX4's. Personally, Im happy about this. Gives me a chance to sell something to a person/rig we havent seen in a while!

Here is a thread of tire reviews from our members. Its a lot to go through, but its first hand experience! http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=5948&hl= unofficial tire review&st=240

OK, I guess I will finally play.... Build page- http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=17128 First vid... More.... Find my channel(5523pathfinder) on Youtube for more videos! Poser shot!

yep, they exist..... http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/ctd/2325058317.html

Your EGT sensor is really the EGR temp sensor. It is there to detect flow of the EGR Valve. It may have failed or your have something else going on. You can remove the sensor and inspect for carbon buildup. I have a hunch your EGR valve is not working. You can test it by starting the engine, put your fingers on the bottom of the EGR valve and push up lightly on the diaghram. This should make the engine stumble. If it does stumble, then you have a EGR control problem(vacuum). Check the BPT valve pressure tube(find it by following the vacuum lines) and see if it is split. If its ok, pull the metal BPT tube out and see if its clogged with carbon. If the engine does not stumble, there may be a blockage in the EGR system, or the EGR valve itself has failed. Let us know what you find.

Look for a vacuum leak. Listen for hissing or spray around vacuum lines and intake area while running and see if it stumbles.

Slapped on some new belts yesterday(I guess they didnt like the mud and water as much as I did). Epoxed cupholder back together after chipping of the end(crossing fingers it holds, but I did get a bit carried away with it). Removed damaged skid plate bolt from playing on the rocks, and replaced with a new one. Cleaned and polished windshield then applied this Crystal Fusion water repellant we have here at work(thought i would try it, and its free).

Not to get off-topic here, but the comments about people who said something like this cant be done, are a bit misunderstood. As with modifing anythign on our rigs, or other rigs for that matter, some things are just flat out not a "bolt on" item. There are a lot of members here who may not have the mechanical skill to perform such tasks. Some believe engine swaps, turbo add-ons, SAS jobs are simple bolt-on upgrades, when they are not. If you have the time, money and skill, anything can be done.

Really, if you did your timing belt, you can do your own bearings. The bearings would have to be pretty bad if your mechanic thinks you need to replace them, and not just repack them. I would take them apart, clean them and inspect. If you do need bearings, most places have them(well, here they do). I did my front brakes adn wheel bearings not too long ago. It was the 2nd time I have repacked them. I had no heat marks or pitting. I did a writeup with pics, check it out..... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=28120