5523Pathfinder

Unfortunatly, early OBD systems were not that sensitive to parts misbehaving. More or less, they wanted to see a short or open in the circuit before they flick the light on. This is not the case with everything, but is with some. Just for reference....

Engine temp sensor could definately cause some issues. This sensor is supposed to tell the ECU what the time of the coolant is. That way the ECU and wither richen up or lean out the fuel mixture. This sensor is resistance/heat based. It may be worth pulling it out, cleaning it(no harsh chemicals) and reinstalling it. If there is some mechanic-in-a-can stuck to it, it may cause it to read incorreclty.

I do let the oil drain over my old filter to check the consistancy of it. If its slow to run off the side, engine flush time or I need to change the oil more often. I use the time to inspect everything underneath and see if anything needs lube or whatever.

I usually let my engine warm, then change the oil. I let it drip until there is little coming out. You are never going to get 100% of the old oil out. I do performed occasional engine flushes with a machine we have here at my work. I have always tried to change my oil between 3-4000 miles.

If its leaking pretty good, like dripping more than 1 drop overnight, I would get it fixed. You will have to spend time and money checking and adding to your oil all time. Plus, looking at it from a different angle, its not really good for the enviroment. Plus, its just nice to have a vehicle that doesnt leak! Remember, if you were to have it fixed at a Nissan dealer, you get a 1 year, 12,0000 mile warranty with the repair! Oh, if you are still making payments, did you purchase a extended warranty at all? Most would cover this repair.

Fix it and be done. I think the quote was so high becasue,IIRC, the seal is in a housing, and you cant replace it seperately(Alldata quotes time as 16hrs). This means you have to pull the trans and the oil pan. You have a 3.5L correct? If it was a 3.3l, just removing the trans is all you have to do. Pulling the trans is the easy part. Its the oil pan thats is difficult.

That depends on how low of oil pressure. Oil pressure with vary depending on RPM as well as temp. If there was no oil whatsoever getting up there, yes, they would make noise.

Oh, it should be noted that JDM motors are not as great as some make them. For the most part, Japanese cars do not get the kind of maintenence that we do here in the U.S.. IIRC, they have a law that the motor must be replaced after so many years or miles. Why maintain something you are made to replace? Anytime a JDM motor is going to be installed, it is best to do a quick inspection to make sure you are getting what you pay for. Have you tried checked for codes at all? Does the engine sound funny at all?

It is possible. Lack of lubrication can cause friction. Friction will slow some things down. Plus, the lifters need oil to perform correctly. I would still hook up a tester guage and verify proper engine pressure. Call it peice of mind. I also argree that "Mechanic-in-a-can" is not the best solution. It is temporary at best.

Did any other lights come on when this issue first happened? If so, I wonder if you have a alternator going out. I know this sounds wierd, but at higher revs/speed, the alternator may not be charging, discharging the battery and causing a low voltage situation for the rest of the vehicle. No juice - no power. At low revs/idle, the alternator may be able to charge for a short time. Just a thought....

Probably what your are going to need to do is get a oil pressure checker and install at your oil pressure switch. This will tell you if you have a oil pump going out. You can probably rent one at a local parts house. You could also drain your oil out in a clean pan and inspect for contamination.

Im beginning to think I should of charged for this writeup!

I have had a redtop for about 6 years, and I pulled it out of a used car(Xterra) that probably been installed over a year previous. It came with the spacer. It has yet to fail on me. I dont have a winch or extra lighting, but do have a sub amp, cb and aftermarket stereo. Works great.

Both marks will not line up 100% perfect. You are off, thats for sure. YOu have got to be low on power/fuel mileage as well. The good thing is that you are only 1 tooth off, so no damage should be done.

Changed the oil and gave it a engine flush! Might clean the engine off as well. Its been a while.....

There are a lot of things to be considered for prerunning. Can you build power? Can you build a suspension thats tough enough to take the pounding of that sort of race? How much money you got? Like any build, proper planning will take you a long way. There are some engine upgrades out there, but none will make serious power. There are some suspension upgrades as well, but Im pretty sure some custom things will need to be done. Some body and interior modifications will need to happen as well. Is there anything specific on your mind?

It was a custom system welded in. They cut the factory muffler off, then welded in the Magnaflow muffler and all new pipe from there back. IIRC, it cost around $300.

So this was my brothers 99 QX4. He had a Magnaflow muffler put in and a dual tip. Please disreguard the wheels and stuff...

So I just caught wind of a repair for these vehicles. It is a "patch" kit(for the lack of a better term). If your vehicle needs the repair, the kits are going to be shipped out soon, but will be on restriction, so pack your patience. It looks like panels will be riveted in, sealed and covered(im not sure about paint at this time). As I find out more, I wll lwt everyone know.

Call your local Nissan dealer and see if they can help you remove them. They should have a 'wheel lock master key set". Tell them your delemia, maybe they wont charge you to pop them off. You did check around the jack and in the tool bag for the key, right?

It goes just to the right of the EGR valve(as you are looking at it over the left front fender). I will take a picture when I can.

Here is my write up when I did mine..... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=28120 It does not show exactly how to rebuild the axles because I replaced them. Repairing the inner boot is easier than the outer. Remove the "cup" on the back of the axle, remove snap ring, slide off the joint then the boot. Installation is reverse.

Its always hard to diagnois stuff over the interwebs. What I would do is try and get all four wheels off the ground, put it in 4wd, and put it in drive. Without acclerating, get out and watch all four wheels to see what they are doing. You should be able to slow one tire down and watch the power trnasfer over to the other wheel. I would also do the same test in 2wd, to make sure the transfer case is not engauging. Keep us informed on what you find!

Well, I guess you are back to maintenence. Is there any play in the wheel bearings? Have the hubs been serviced at all? What about the front diff fluid, color, level, smell? If it feels like the front wheels are binding individually when spinning by hand, I would think your hubs need to be cleaned and regreased(or replaced if you want). If the front end is binding all together, make sure you are out of 4wd on dry pavement and do some figure eights. If your transfer case is not letting go, you will feel binding. Again, possible hub issue or maybe transfer case(rare). Time to do some poking around.