5523Pathfinder

no manual is perfect. It helps knowing what you are testing, and are used to the manuals.

I think you may be interperting the manual incorrectly. This is one of the times Nissan manuals are a bit tricky. Because they use a, b, c to identify the pins, they dont always switch it depending on how you are performing the test. In the first diagram, you are testing the continuity of the harness between the MAF and the ECM. Both are disconnected and you are testing it looking at the pins of the connector(know as Terminal side), not the wires. In the MAF test, you are testing the output(input to ECM) of the MAF. The connector is plugged in and you are testing at the wires, or the Harness side. Basicly, you have flipped the connector and now a is where c was. It usually is always stated a, b, c, d, for testing purposes(though, I think I have seen it backwards at some point).

Posting something up in the Southeast section of the Regions section my warrant more responses from local area members!

Gas mileage is a many covered topic. You may want to search and see what you can find. Many factors will effect gas mileage. I, for the most part, drive on the freeway and get on average about 18mpg's. Of course Im lifted and running 33's. Keep your rig in proper tune and you should get better than that. If you think you are going to get mid to high 20's, well, its not going to happen. These rigs are about as aerodynamic as a brick.

could be that they just overfilled it. Are you sure it was half a quart, or just guessing? It is not abnormal to overfill, put down filling device, then install the fill plug. Not that the Transfercase takes a whole lot of fluid anyway. I bit overfilled wont hurt anything.

I know with some of our cars(nissan, infiniti) the cruise may not work when a ABS code is present. I cant say I ever encountered both problems at the same time. I would figure out the ABS failure first. This will help... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=27880

Have a look at this.... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=12280

Well, you can unbolt the Cat and check to see if its broken inside, or any possible leaks. As far as the MAF goes, you could do some pin testing, but In not sure you will find a definate failure. IF I was looking at it, I would compare real time data from Consult, to what the specs are in the FSM. Driving the vehicle and watching Calculated Load, MAF meter voltage, and MAF sensor data. Under hard accel, usually the Calculated load and sensor data will drop out of spec. The reason the other side might not get picked up is simple. The ecu needs to see a two trip fault(thank you obd2), before it sets a code. One side might pick up quicker than the other. You could try swapping in a good MAF from another vehicle, maybe from another member in your area. Otherwise, you gotta take a shot at something. The MAF sensor is quite chaper than a new cat(plus, the cats dont normally go bad all by themselves). Every tech is differnet, but if he is good, he should of caught this and been able to diagnois it instead of just resetting a few things.

Yeah, what did you clean the air flow meter with? If it was damaged, it would definately mess the the catalyst function. If the ECU id not reading the MAF correctly because its sending incorrect info, then the O2 sensors will think the Cats have too much or too little oxygen in them. This will cause richening or leaning the fuel mixture. If your rig is at 81%, i think you much be running rich. The MAF is probably reading less air coming in that what is actually coming in. The O2 is picking this up thinking the Catalyst is having a issue. Normally I would take a look at the other bank and see if it is off as well. I have replaced many MAF sensors for this same issue.

Ok, as far as cleaning the throttle body, thats a bit misunderstood. First of all, never ever touch any of the screws for the throttle body, or on it. These screws have paint marks from being set up at the factory. Touching them will put the throttle body out of whack, and will damage it. You can clean the throttle plate with several different cleaners out there. Be sure you use something sensor save, and will not remove the coating on the throttle plate. Also, do not clean it with a wire brush! Use a clean rag and wipe the carbon off. Now, you can perfom the idle relearn without the scan tool(consult). Follow these directions as they are copied directly from the factory manual.... Now, you are going to need to reset the acclerator pedal also. Do this by turning your ignition on for 10 seconds(do not start), then off for ten seconds. Do this 20 times. 1 time is considered off-on. Keep your foot off of all the pedals during this. I usally do this before and after I reset the idle speed, mostly due to force-of-habit. Give it a try and see how it comes out. I would assume you took it to a Nissan tech? When he did the idle relearn, did it actually complete? Did he give you a printout? Oh yeah, what code is the ECU throwing to turn the SES light on?

Ok, just for giggles, your sure your transfer case isnt in neutral?

There is a TSB for stumbling/surging when cold. The repair is a new ECU. I have had my rig do something similar, but when I went to diag it, everything works fine. It hasnt done it for quite a while. Does your CEL flash at all when this happens?

How long ago did you have it flashed? If that repair was performed and you are still getting the code, then take it back. The dealer shoudl look at it for free as did not fix your problem(if thats what you took it in for). The other possibility is the Air Flow Meter is on its way out. There is no damage to the cat?

Sounds like you may need this TSB performed so you can pass.... (This was copied directly from the Tsb on ASIST, from a pdf document. Thats why it looks wierd.)

They will be different. 6-speed trans has a completly different bolt pattern. Now, its not to say that it cant be done. Just some fab time/get creative time.

It sounds like you are talking about the A/C compressor or P/S pump. Take a picture and post it. That will help us help point you in the right direction.

Try disconnecting the MAF meter and see if it starts. It could of just gave up. Unpluggin it will put it in limp mode(it will set a code), and you should be able to start it. You could also crank it over with all the plugs out(ignition disabled of course). This will help dry all the cylinders out.

I would pull the cap, rotor and inspection plate on the distributor. I have seen the distributors begin to eat themselves and distribute aluminum shavings inside the distributor. These shavings get into the optical sensor ring and can cause issues. You can try blowing it out with some air, or vacuum it out. I ended up replacing my distributor when I found this happening while searching to a different problem.

Well, you didnt take any time jumping in did ya! Glad you found this place and your rig looks great! Thought you said it doesnt go offroad! Anyway, it was nice chatting with you at the show. Maybe I will enlist your fab skills for a new front bumper in the future! Oh, and I took this pic a while ago, but is this your rig? Once again, good looking rig and glad to have you on board! Derek

There are some places out there that make replacements. I know Katzkins used to, but not sure if they still(1992 is getting kind of old). You could always get a quote from a local auto interior place. Maybe pull the covers yourself and bring them in.

Yes, its kind of common. You need to tear down the timing belt and inspected both keys(crank pulley and timing belt gear). Some have gotten away with a repair, some have had to replace the engine or at least the crankshaft. Inspect before you get carried away.

Lets see, you have replaced a bunch of stuff! I would check your EGR valve for proper operation. If its opening at the wrong time, it will kill mileage. Have you checked for vacuum leaks? This would lean things out causing extra fuel usage, hurting your mileage. How about tire pressure? What pressure are you running? You said timing is good, did you check it with a timing light? if its advanced a bit, you might get more power, but mileage will drop(I did this for a while, but put it back to spec). How does the inside of your intake look? Lots of carbon buildup? Carbon will build up on the valves over time(VG's are real good at this), causing lack of power, low milage, idle issues. You clean them with a chemical, or as some guys do, use water. One more...What grade fuel are you using? Oh, and have you checked for codes? The check engine light may not be on, but a code can get stored.

OH it happend my friend......