5523Pathfinder

Just use any GPS that displays mph. I do this with my 33's to know that im about 3-5mph off. Yeah, the tires you run now are probably way different than what came on our vehicle stock(obviously many different tires and sizes). The load rating of the tire can determine how much flex the sidewall will have. Some M/T tires have a D or E load rating which can stand up to low pressures better(guys with beadlocks will runless than 5 psi and you can hardly tell the tire is low). Raising the tire pressre higher can mask other suspension issues(shocks, bushings, correct ride height). Think, in the racing world(well use NASCAR as a example) they raise and lower tire pressure by sometimes a 1/2 a psi to help the car corner or "hook up" better.

Yes, it does say Storage Trunk by Superbox on it. I got it at BigLots for a whole whopping $20. I have a thread about rear storage options I have more detail in. I will post the link to the thread. Here ya go... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=32543

The sidewall rating is for the max load the tire can handle. Inflating a tire to its max pressure blows it up like a ballon, and the weight of the vehicle onply compresses the tire a small amount, meaning that the treadpatch is not in proper contact with the road. The recommended tire pressure that is posted on usually the door jamb, is meant to give the tire the best contact patch possible, with the vehicle normally loaded(think you, a passanger, and groceries), so the vehicles handling is still predictable. You change that pressure and different things can occure, such has handling different, tire wear, lower fuel mileage, ect. The same is true if you underinflate a tire. That tire will pull up in the middle and you will be riding on the outer edges or "shoulders" of the tire. This would also create excess drag, heating and wearing the tire prematurely. Does that make sense?

My guess would be, and nissan does this a lot, you have to get the whole lid to get the latch. the bad thing is that it may not even be available anymore.

I run 28psi in my BFG 33's. I have messed with the pressure up and down and that is where they seem happiest. Yeah, most kids working in a tire shop(really any shop) usually get that wrong. Usually because they are taught wrong(plus the average joe gets it wrong too). You only want to run the max pressure when at full load or towing.

3.5l is a timing chain(as well as the 4.0 in later model). 3.3l is timing belt 3.0 is timing belt 2.4 is timing chain

I will be nice and civil here, but man does that bend in the tie rod worry me! Seems like that will definitly be a weak point if used offroading(unles your a urban offroader! Yeah, you know who you are!!! ). Though, for the street, it would take a serious hit to test it(curb, pothole, ect). Good luck!

IF you are just clicking and not cranking over, its not the distributor. I would check to make sure both battery cables are clean and tight. You might be having a starter or relay going out. Have another person try and start it so you can trace where the clicking is coming from.

Mud! and I dont know from when! Thanks guys. Yeah, defenitly cleaned up the clutter. Its secure, so a little piece of mind knowing things wont fly around.

I did use some washers! I need one more, I just didnt have time to trim and fit it(look at the third pic). I will tell you what, that thing is good and solid. I was yanking it around and it wasnt going anywhere. Figured I would put a carabeaner(sp) clip through the lock hole for now.

Mounted me up a new storage box...

Ok, so going nuts to have a bunch of drawers and stuff, is a little out of my range and want. So, I did find a box. While browsing the isles of BigLots, I found a Storage Trunk by Superbox, for the grand total of $20. So I bought it and just got done mounting it up. I removed the rear tiedown cleats in the rear on the right side(pic is left side for reference)... Removed cleats(once again the right side) I measured to the outermost bolts, marked drilled holes, then used the old mounts for a template so all four bolt holes could be used...... And load it up with stuff!!!!! Closed and ready to use(oh, it opens perfect through the rear glass when opened.. And still have room for my sub(when Im not out playing)...

watch at 35 secs in... Anyway, what you guys are refering to is bump-steer. Thats all IM going to add here.

Depends upon what you are building. Most machine shops will check the bore condition, the crank bore to check for anything not aligned, and may check cam bore in the heads to make sure they are straight. This can all change if you are doing a more-than-stock build. What all are you doing for a rebuild?

Im thinking backspacing is your issue. If it only happens at full lock, you may want to check the steering stoppers to verify they are not missing. As stated, you may want to have the alignment checked and adjusted as it could also throw things off(too much or too little caster adjustment).

I have been using RTV on threaded drain plugs for years. Usually I use the orange(or red) nissan RTV that has been available to me. We have some genertic TIFCO silcone here and I have used both the red and the black. Like I said, I usually do it when I am performing the fluid service so I can clean the threads of any residue(I dont get carried away, just wipe with a clean rag). I put a small bead along the bottom of the threads so it pushes up as I tighten it. Obviously not all the RTV stays on the thread, but it seals it none the less. I have double checked time after time and they stay dry. I have done this on my own rig and they do not leak either.

Well, usually you would do it when the plug is dry, but it smears upon install. I would drop the threads down a bit, apply about half way around, then tighten. You can wipe off the excess or smear it around the plug.

I usually use a nice blob of RTV on the threads.

Most likey the injector is leaking and is fuel soaking the oil. You know what cylinder it is, why not just replace it and be done? Band aids only last for a short time.

Can you take a picture? That would help us help you. Visuals are always good.

Probably from the poor condition the coolant was in when I worked on it. I flushed it and flushed it to get crap out. It was not the way he left it. After leaving Jims hands, nobody knows what uninformed yahoo worked on that poor truck. I know it was right when it left my house(no crystal ball to look into the future). Also, about a year later, his e-fan failed and he got a little hot. Maybe it started then. Obviously it couldnt take anymore at the time.

His engine was rebuilt several years before this happend. Before we got it back from the wrecking yard. I know, I worked on his rig.

That picture is mileading. That was MrJims rig. His rig was resurrected from a junkyard and had been absolutely beat on at one point. There is nothing wrong with plastic. They perform they same as others in the same price point. In all the years working on nissan products, I have maybe seen a handfull of radiators just let go. Usually its do to the lack of maintenence or the wrong coolan mixutre was used. Of course upon radiator replacement, be sure to check the rest of your cooling system(radiator cap, thermostat, ect) for any other issues. I have used Performance Radiator many times and have been very very happy with thier product. http://performanceradiator.com/

There is not really any special tools you need. A selection of screwdrivers and pliers will get you through most of it. If the right side spins when slowing the left side, that is normal. Open differential shifts power to the other side of least resistance. You can back off the drum adjuster through the inspection hole, on the backing plate, blocked with a rubber plug. You rotate it until the drum loosens. Its not easy, but it can be done with a flatblade screwdriver. Its possible the wheel cylinder or something is stuck and you have overheated the drum, and warped it.