5523Pathfinder

Stupid short editor, oh well, here it is... Silverpath

Sounds like you need to pull the intake yourself and check those power valve screws. If the were loose, the original guy should of checked for damage to the intake itself. Kind sounds like damage to the cat converter to me. Being when you perform the reset and everything works fine for a few, something is telling the computer to do something it's not supposed to. No codes tells me something mechanically failed. You could pull the plugs and do a compression check to see of the rings are worn(May also need a leak down test). If they were low, you could put a small amount of ATF down the cylinders to help reseat the rings. Me? I'd pull the intak and check the screws myself, then pull the cats and inspect them to see if the are coming apart.

I can tell you Jim's radiator didn't just pop because it was plastic. That cooling system was in very poor shape when I worked on it. I had to flush that system 3 times before it was mostly clean. It had the wrong water/coolant mixture in it for a long time and degraded the entire system. If my crystal ball would get repaired at the shop, I would of probably replaced it back then. That poor truck was treated very poorly before Jim got it back. Anyway, proper maintenance will keep any radiator alive. 50/50 coolant mix is key. The bleeder is on top of the intake, behind the throttle body a few inches. It's a 10mm bolt with a small copper washer under it. With the system filled and engine not running, remove the bolt and washer until you get a solid stream of coolant mix coming out of the hole. Keep adding coolant mix if nothing comes out. In some cases, the hole can get plugged. Use a small screwdriver to clear the hole. Put the bolt back in(with the washer) and tighten down. Start it up, turn the heat on and fan to speed 3, top off the coolant and when you feel good heat from the vents you should be good to go. Oh, hopefully they put a new radiator cap with your new radiator! Please be careful when the system is hot!

You need the male and female connectors for each? I have a tub of connectors that I have cut off of harnesses over the years

One last thing finally came today. LED frog lamp bulbs! Thanks Kyle! I should be able to pop them in soon!

Installed 90 amp maxima alternator today after my original alternator finally died.

Yeah, frame rot usually starts in the rear, but can be found just about anywhere since there are multiple drain holes in the frame, rust tends to sped from there. Salt doesn't care, it's hungry! The front suspension is IFS, but has a torsion bar setup, not a coil spring. Cut it all out and start over. Several SAS swaps have been performed with leaf springs and coil spring/link setup. Honestly, I think you may want to consider a Explorer. Find one with a V8 and you will have a heck of a start. If you subscribe to 4wheeler, they did an article a few months ago about what to look for, how to modify, ect, to help you modify for what you want to do. Matter of fact, here it is... http://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/131-1306-how-to-buy-a-used-explorer/

Well, first thing I will say, is that if you have money and time, anything can be done. That whole package would be the way to go. Of course, you are going to run into numerous fit and clearance issues. V8's are a tight fit into the pathfinders engine bay, but if you rip everything out, you will know what to keep and what not. I see your in Utah, do they use salt on the roads there? Pathfinder frames have been known to rot out was well over time. Many members have had to let their vehicles go due to this. Of course, many things can be done to help prevent continual rust issues. Axles would be next. Rear axle is tough, but for how much power you want to out down, you are going to be pushing the limits. Front axle, well, you might as well do a SAS and get it over with. This well help give you room for the engine and transmission. Not that the front axles are weak, but it will implode the first time you put the hammer down in 4wd. Of course, it will take all custom mounts for everything. Good luck with endeavor and keep us informed on how it all goes.

Good luck man! Hope it all goes smooth! And once you get to the States, Welcome!

No frame? Ha! J/k! I see a rear wind deflector

So, I'm taking my stepdaughter to a band/ orchestra regional meet, and as we are waking up to the hotel it's being held at, there is a white 2013 pathfinder under the lights sat the main entry, and I gotta say, it looked sexy. Yeah, not a off roader, but it looked damn good next to the the other vehicles around it.

The improved version are turbo studs from a 300zx. I can't remember the thread pitch at the moment.

On some cars, you can turn they key on and let it sit for about 30 minutes and it will relearn the key and it will start. Works on some, but not all.

Well, it's easy for newbies and a nice place to go test your rig. 90% of it is a breeze.

Steevo got my vote! Thanks man for the things you do for our community! Congrats on the two magazine articles!

Welcome! I'm a bit further south! Might be time for a easy trail ride at Tahuya soon to meet some new members in person!

Do you have a intelligent key or regular chipped key? If it's a regular key, the key fob won't keep it from starting. The chip on the key is on the bottom of the head, you should be able to see a small rectangle outlining the chip. Sure sounds like a key issue to me. Been down that road a few times. Keep me informed on what your friend finds.

Trans cooler hoses or oil cooler o-ring. Both are pretty easy fixes.

It is sweet, but it didn't come from me.

Power is given to the ECM by the IPDM. One of the many relays is the Ecm relay, and that would keep it from starting or doing anything. Check fuse #20 on the IPDM for power and go from there.

Just a quick question, does your cig lighter work? It should share the same circuit as the power to the DLC connector. No power, no connection. I did read this is a 2001 Altima, right? If so, the code you need to program the key is 5523. This was the only code they used in the early chipped keys. It's also the early version of LAN/CAN diagnostics. If the tech did his job right, there should be a sheet attached to the repair order, with printouts showing what worked and what didn't. Again, I will go back and look, but are you using a old key or a new one? Factory or aftermarket? If the red key light is on, the system doesn't recognize the key(not programmed or failed internally). The no compression is probably washed cylinders from the fuel injectors start squirt, and now hasn't been able to clear the cylinders. This can be counteracted by putting it in clear-flood mode, which is hold the accelerator down to the floor while cranking, and not letting up until the engine revs up. Sorry for your issues man. Ok, wait, never mind all that. 07 sentra should have a 5 digit code on the BCM sticker. This code has to be put into ASIST to get another code that allows the key to be programmed, if that's the issue. It is completely plausible the ECM is cooked, of it won't communicat at all. Now, the CAN system is even easier to diagnois in 07. The consult 3 and 3 plus both have 1 button Can diagnostics that shows you what is communicating, and what's not. Again, this should have been printed and attached to your repair order. If anything is not communicating, it's a simple check for power and ground. If it has it and don't work, it's smoked.

I didn't take a picture of it out of respect, but I just found a dead body left behind in a trade in! Ok, it wasn't a body, but it was someone's ashes. Box was clearly marked and yes, there was a plastic box with someone's remains inside. I told the necessary people and the salesman is calling the customer so we can return them as needed. Strange thing is, this is the second time I have found that in a car that someone traded in.

Up to 230,000 miles now. Still running strong!

Got me some automatic tire deflators! Sweet! I will post up a pic in a while after the chaos has simmered. Thanks Santa!