5523Pathfinder

I have toed with this idea for a long time. I found a company that will make me a engine management harness, plug and play... http://www.zfever.com/v1/ Then use a G35/350z ECU. Possiblities shoot through the roof. Getting the transmission figure out is the issue, but I do remember a hybrid trans figure. Swapping the tail housings and gears, IIRC.

Test That's using the HTML code on photobucket

Be sure not to run your cable to the antenna near any control unit. I got power from my cig lighter(t pinned), and used a ground on the dash. As stated, be sure to have your antenna tuned! Makes a huge difference!

Merry Christmas to you as well! Glad to try and help!

Are the CV boots torn? The axles are also another possibility. I understand not wanting to throw money at it on a guess. It's just hard to diagnose the problem without actually seeing/hearing or feeling it. Maybe get all four tires off the ground and run 4wd at low speed and see if anything is noticeable.

How did the bearings look? Pitting? Scoring? Ay abnormal issues? New bearings may be in order. Possible diff bearing as well. Check/Change the front diff fluid and look for excessive material.

Land rover....If there ain't oil under it, there ain't oil in it!

See if you can find a 3.3 liter out of a r50 pathfinder/terrano or even a Nissan pickup(Navara there?). There are other threads here that go into extra detail. Just do a little searching

Mmmmmm......I already know what I want for Christmas next year

Ok, maybe a front option.... I don't know how big the inverter is, but I mounted my cb in the center console. Yes, I did loose the rear cup holder, but it doesn't bother me. Heck, I didn't keep anything important in there anyway. Only had to drill two holes as you can see, to run the wires in and out. It's mounted with Velcro from a XM kit(high quality and strong).

Or carbon buildup on the valves. You might want to perform a wet test in just that cylinder and see if it changes much. This would help you determine if the rings are not sealing, but I don't think that's what you have going on.

Ok, so it's not a inverter, but I thought it was a good place to mount my amp. Might be a good place for your inverter if you want to run wire for it...

I did some test fitting with a buddies spare 33x12.5 mickeys a while back... Had some rubbing at the factory mud flap, wasn't at full lock... In the rear, they look nice, but ran close to the frame... I run wheels with a -19mm offset, BTW... Just thought I would toss it out for information. I was considering a wider tire, but i rub enough with 10.5 wide tires when flexed.

I've been running the AC idler brace since I lifted it. Absolutely no problems. From a guy with 33's, having the GR centerlink, the idler arm brace and larger moog tie rods, steering is awesome.

With a quick shot of lube on the inside, just tap them back on with a soft hammer

Flat screwdriver and a hammer. The small black cap in the center. Tap behind the cap and pry it forward. Behind it will be a snap ring you will need to remove. Then lightly tap the outer part and wiggle it off

Pull your spark plugs and look at them for abnormal deposits. If you can get your hands on a inspections cope, you could put it down the plug hole and look for coolant loss while under pressure. Or, while running, if you can get a laser thermometer pointed at the manifold, you could check the temps between the two. Even hit the individual runners and see if any one is lower than the others.

Bought him feb 2006 with 88,000 miles. Lifted and locked it a year later. Just rolled 222,000 miles yesterday.

Sorry for taking so long to reply. Your rear brakes could be either drum or disc. You got to look though the wheel and see what you have. If its drum brakes, the shoes can be adjusted once you have the drum off. You basicly turn the adjuster a few clicks then install the drum. Give it a spin a I should drag a little bit. Keep sliding the drum off and adjust as needs. This will give you better braking and pedal feel, as well as if the abs operates, it will work better. I believe I posted how to check your abs for codes in the How To section. I will try to find the link. Here is one..... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/27880-abs-light/

Glad to able to help another member knock out the timing belt! Yeah, it's a good feeling having that belt done and out of the way for the next 10 years, 100,000 miles!

Remember, the early pathfinders on have rear ABS. The speed sensor is located at the pinion and not at the wheel like newer cars. 99% of the time, people will never feel their ABS operate. First of all, check to make sure you have a abs module under the drivers seat. You can also check for a small actuator in the right frame rail, under the right rear door. Your system is probably fine(you grounded out the pin on the blue connector under the dash, correct?), with no lights on. You may also want to make sure your rear brakes are properly adjusted for proper operation.

Some of the 4.0l have been known to suck too much oil through the PVC system(see nissan 3.5l). If ran too low, the pistons will score and the ring won't seal and eat oil also, eventually leading to mechanical failure. Replacing the valve covers and verify good compression is the way to catch it and stop it early. Around 100k is when the plugs are do and the giveaway is oil in the #5 & #6 plug holes. Not that bad of a job, IMHO.

In the car deal, just have the, throw in a new radiator. Wham, bam, thank you ma'am! Seriously though, the 05-06's do have this issue. Though it was a small amount of vehicles that had the problem, it wouldn't hurt to throw a external trans cooler in. Yes, they are a body-on-frame design. The xterra uses a different suspension setup than the old pathfinders. Luckily, there is pleanty of support if you chose to change things up in the future. Also check the oil as some have been known to eat a bit of oil.

I always try to replace the rear main seal when I'm in there. Once they are replaced, usually it's no longer a problem(save for if you should happen to damage the seal during installation). I usually run a bead of silicone along the oil pan gasket while I'm there also.

That's probably the best thing you can do for it!