5523Pathfinder

I gotta say, it's nice to see this was a independent shop and not a dealer for once. Crappy techs and shops like this give people like Nunya and myself a bad name. I have never met Nunya in person, but I can tell he takes pride in his work, as do I. Good techs are hard to find because too many owners want to hire the cheapest person possible to make money. Too many uneducated people are in this business who should never touch a wrench. Why this is commonplace is beyond me. I always recommend when trying to find a new shop, to go in for something small and check the place out. People try to save money by going to theses places, but in the long run, they pay more and more. Sorry this happened to you and hope you get it figured out.

The tach may of had enough. It's a small potentiometer inside and eventually it wears out. Some speedo calibration shops can fix them. But it's not cheap. Well, cheaper than a new one anyway.

Welcome! Im up in washington like many others! Fuel mileage? Yeah, that's a toughy. In trade off you get a capable, reliable vehicle that will go anywhere you point it.

I replaced my steering with the Grassroots centerlink and moog tie rod ends. I wanted moog cause they had grease holes zerks could be put in. I actually measured them and yes, they are larger than stock. I have wheeled my rig as well as up and down I-5 with no problems. Even for a daily driver, the grassroots centerlink with help keep your steering tight and alignment correct for a long time. You ain't to far from me if you wanna come check it out sometime.

If you have a decent amount of drill bits, I used to use a larger drill bit to drill the face of the broken stud and knock a small amount of of the aluminum out of the way. This deburs the area and centers for a smaller drill bit. Drill, tap and remove.

Some have... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/28224-andrews-2001-le-35-build/page-6

When you are driving your other vehicle in crappy weather and think..... "This would be way more fun in my pathfinder!"

It engages LUDICROUS SPEED!! Seriously, he's right.

Definitely sounds/looks like a ground problem. Check your grounds from the engine to the body. You know, the ones on the exhaust manifolds that are always coming off or people don't put back on. Make sure the ground at the battery is clean and see if the cable is still attached to the body as well.

As stated, to get all four wheels spinning, you will need lockers or limited slip in each of your differentials. A lot of guys, including myself, run a rear locker(mechanical) and manual locking hubs. This actually gives you three wheels locked. Locking the front differential can make it difficult to turn, so a selectable locker is best. But I will say, driver experience is a big key. Working the truck back and fourth to get unstuck, turning your wheel left and right to work for traction are all basic techniques to help get out. Sometimes, a good tire will help a ton. Getting stuck isn't a bad thing. You just need to learn from it. As for a winch, well, there is a lot to go with it, and it can get spendy. Having a hi-lift jack and be used as a winch, just takes longer. Sounds like you need to figure out what kind of wheelin you wanna do on a regular basis. I've seen fully built rigs get stuck.

Most of those problems were in the early 05-06 models for the most part. Most issues ought to be pretty small.

It's cool, I appreciate it. When I had my hardbody, I was going to do the swap, but I like the pathfinder front end on the pathfinder. Again, thanks for the input!

One more quicky....

Please, don't take this the wrong way, but it will not be doing the hardbody swap. It just don't appeal to me. I drive a pathfinder, not a pickup. Being that I wheel my rig, I am more concerned about quality and durability. If I want more light, I will add more light. So the plastic units some used were the Anzo units?

Ok, so here's he deal, after 1347564775873465 times up Nadine down I-5, multiple wheelin adventures and age, my headlamp housings have just about had it. Now, I was going to look into the euro housings, but they are spendy and I don't know what they look like installed. Then again, other than factory, I don't know what any other housings look like installed. Other than a factory replacement, I ran across these.. http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/ANZ0/111050/03970.oap?year=1995&make=Nissan&model=Pathfinder&vi=1212006&ck=Search_03970_1212006_4358&pt=03970&ppt=C0028 And was wondering if anyone has installed them? I ain't going to buy some cheap eBay crap, nor am I going to spend a ton on a lamp that can get trashed offroad. I would love to see what get look like in the day and night, lights on or off. So if you have any aftermarket housings or the euro housings, can ya show me and tell me how it's working for you?

Oooohhhhhh yyyyeeeeeeaaaaaahhhhhhhh!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Good job hawks!

The jeep Cherokee is FWD too!

I used to struggle with being a Vikings fan. That was hard to shake. But I have always been a fan of local sports teams, including the Arizona cardinals when I lived in Phoenix from 95-98. But something changed in about 03-04. I loved that Seattle went out and got coach holmgren. He began shaping teams that fans could really get behind. Kind of like how Lou Pinella did it with the Mariners. Of course, with his Super Bowl run with the hawks, that was the capper. I went to two games that year and man what a experience! Getting hi-5's and hugs from complete strangers locked me in as a seahawk fan. Since then, good or bad, I'm a hawk fan! It's really hard having a 49'rs jacket hanging in my closet from when I has a teenager! I'M IN!

Yes sir, from last July! Had my wife's family camping weekend up there.

First of all.......GO HAWKS!!! Should be a good game. I'm not too worried about Peyton. I don't think the broncos have a complete team. Seattle's defense is going to give him a rough time. It will be a good feeling here in the northwest when they win. This area needs it. I remember being a kid in Minnesota when the twins won the series. Makes the whole area feel good. If fooseball is the devil, then paint me red and pass out the pitchforks!

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/12828-how-to-change-your-timing-belt/ See post #7

Factory scan tool that I know of--- Nissan/ Infiniti- Consult, Consult 2, 3 and 3+ Ford/Lincoln/mercury/sometimes Mazda- STAR, IDS Chrysler/Dodge/Jeep- DRB 1, 2 Suzuki- DRB Chevy/Gmc/ect- TECH 1, 2 Toyota/Lexus- Techstream 1-2 Each do something different. I personally have a mid level scan tool from Matco that gives me way more info than a generic tool. We also have a Snap-on SOLUS gen 2 that does even more, but again, not everything.

Yes, every manufacturer has it's own ECM "logic" and a scan tool that is compatible with it. A few share similar tools, but have different software. Aftermarket scan tools can cost just as much as a factory tool, but still won't have all the information and capabilities as the factory tool. Add to that a lot of stuff is proprietary and won't make it out to the general public. I for one never try to stick it to any customer, even when they are jerks. Another mechanic on this board feels the same way. I am sorry you had a bad experience at the dealers, I can not do anything about that. Plenty of aftermarket shops rip people off too. You are paying a premium at the dealer and they should diagnose it and show you why and what needs to be replaced. If you don't feel like that was done, take it up with the service manager or general manager. A good tech will have documentation on what he feels needs to be replaced and why. They should be able to show you all that, or at least talk to the technician one-on-one. I have said it over and over again, no matter where you go, get to know the tech so you can feel comfortable with him and trust him. Plugging in a scan tool does not tell you how to fix the car or tell you what's broken. Diagnosis needs to be performed. All the components need to be tested individually to see if they have actually failed, then replaced as needed. It is possible they may share power or ground. Again, things need to be diagnosed.

Replace it, like I said. Parts fail, even new ones. You could pull a j/y unit and have the immobilizer programmed and see if it works. All new cars have pretty much the same thing(chipped key). All cars break at some point. Again, sorry that your local dealers couldn't figure it out.

Yep, usually in those sentras, if the ECU fails, it won't talk to the CAN system, but everything else should talk. It will throw codes saying it won't communicate with other things on the system, WHICH IS NORMAL. A quick check of power and ground to the ECU and to the DLC are easy, quick checks. Upon replacing the ECU, the immobilized function needs to be programmed with a code from ASIST.