5523Pathfinder

Trans cooler hoses or oil cooler o-ring. Both are pretty easy fixes.

Up to 230,000 miles now. Still running strong!

Yeah, just see what all systems they check and report back with those codes.

Usually P07xx codes. If the lights on, there is a code somewhere. Cheap code readers mostly will only read engine codes.

What all systems does your code reader read? May be transmission codes.

If your radiator is cracked, you want to be careful it hasn't contaminated the A/T fluid. This happened on many 05-06 frontiers, xterras and pathfinders. This will take out your trans! There is a known TSB and warranty extension for affected vehicles. I'm not saying this is what you have going on, just be cautious.

Meh, no one was around me. I took it without looking.

This happened the other day...

Anyone running a flow master 40 series? Some unlucky individual left behind a brand new one in a old crx that was traded in. Was curious how it sounds on our rigs.

My rear window decal was a gift from a family member who had it made. If you want stickers, go here... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/22171-stickers-decals/

Sounds like something is wrong. My rig does not use 3/4in thick washers, that I remember. Matter of fact, I just went out and looked and I have two small shims in each rear bolt, and none on the front. I remember when I did my alignment, I had slight negative camber, but not enough that creates any issues. Now, there is also the issue of your tie rod ends. After I installed the Grassroots centerlink, my camber continued to improve. Have you done a base toe setting yet? I would of started with the factory shims in first, then align from there. Good alignment shops should have the nissan shims handy.

I would also be helpful to know what the measurements are, to know what needs adjusted, and how much.

How far do you have the torsion bars cranked? Adjusting them(and possibly reindexing) just a bit may help with your camber issue

For 500 miles, just take it easy. That's what I tell my customers.

I don't think it should point right at #1, maybe a bit before. Here, this might help... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/12828-how-to-change-your-timing-belt/

What you need to be worried about is a size difference, especially side to side. Two different tires turn at two different speeds and you will break things in the differential. A tire that is just a different tread and load, can case some noise and pulling issues. For a short time, it's no big deal, but don't run it that way forever, unless your a dedicated trail rig. Make sense?

Sounds like a hub is not disengaging. Yeah, in some cases, you need to roll backward to disengage everything. Does it shake after backing up? When is the last time the hubs were cleaned and lubed?

What you could do is go with a smaller screen and put in into a clinometer housing. Bolt up right on top of your dash. Of course, then it wouldn't be integrated with the radio

Some u-joints on the rear driveshaft have bolts that can be removed so you can grease them. It's awfully tight for a grease zerk, but you can still get the grease in there. That's what I do. As stated, the front shaft should have a zerk for the slip shaft.

I like that bumper!

Changed the oil and greased everything in prep for next weekend. Unfortunately, I found a few things that will need to addressed afterward. After about 7 years and over 100k miles, my upper control arm bushings are worn out, as well as my tension rod bushings ar about done. Want to do something about it before they get wallered-out to much. Time to spend some money! And maybe I can shove my e-fan in at the same time.

Working on cars for a living, I have seen how tires wear, listened to the road noise, and got to drive plenty in the rain and snow. I will try and give a little about what I know abut each tire. 1) Goodyear duratrac- not a fan. I thought they broke loose easy in the rain, and wear funny. I see them a lot on f150s and explorer/ rangers/taco as. 2) Goodyear authority- can't say I know this one very well. Sorry. 3) Mickey Thompson radial stz- good all around tire, a bit noisy, and price is as bit high in comparison. 4) Mickey Thompson radial mtz- my buddy had theses on his jeep for a while. He noticed some rapid tire wear when driving it everyday. 5) Mickey Thompson radial atz-p3- once again, good all around tire, but haven't seen enough of them. 6) dick cepek fun country- meh, not that great for what they are. A friend has these as well and wished he bumped up to the mud country. 7) dick cepek mud country- great tire, but maybe not for everyday use. Loud. 8) firestone destination mt- I am not a fan of any firestone tires. They wear uneven, sidewalks are soft ad are prone to punctures. Probably the most repaired tire in our shop. Always sounds like a whirring noise when driving. 9) bf Goodrich mt- gonna sound biased here, it I love these tires. My original KMs seem to last forever. One work quickly due to worn steering and alignment, but kicked arse in the mud, rain and snow. I know have the KM2s and I would say they are quieter than the KM1's but perform every bit as good, if not better. I got fantastic mileage out of the KM1s, as I was commuting 100 miles a day, for 5 years. The KM2 are wearing nicely, and out almost 40k on the already. I recommend them to everyone. 10) hankook dynapro mt- I love the looks of these, and have considered them to try when my BFGs are done. A little noisy, and some I have seen have inner wear issues, but that might of been the vehicle. I also noticed they are typically priced higher than some more well know tires 11) fierce attitude mt- sorry, I know nothing of these. Off brands always worry me. I will throw one more industry secret at you. When a manufacturer makes a tire, the tires are tested individually and given a rating, A, B or C. A tires are usually purchased by car makers and installed as factory equipment, as they usually a have he fewest defects and give good ride quality. B tires are usually in your better well know tire stores, and rarely go on sale. Some B and C, which may have more defects, tires are sold to your cheap tire stores, who usually push their own in-house brands. So when you see a smokin deal on your favorite tire, and it just seems to good to be true, you are probably going to have issues with them at some point. As the old saying goes, you get what you pay for!

Run by your locals parts house and get it scanned for free. It's got codes stored. Let us know what they are, and we can go from there.

Oh, I forgot one thing, the offset of your wheels could be a issue. For the most part, I'm sue your fine. Do you have a pic of the wheel and tire combo?