5523Pathfinder

Repaired the sagging down middle headliner panels. Removed panels, peeled back vinyl, used red schotch brite pad to scuff surface and help removed old padding, sprayed adhesive on panel and material, pulled back over and secured. Did this in the sun to help stretch the material. Looks like factory again!

My steering was also stiff after installing the link and new tie rod ends. I double checked the torque and verified ok. After driving for a while it loosened up. And by that, I mean a few days. I wnet back after driving 500 miles and retorqed everththing and all is great. Be sure you grease everything else(TRE's). It is fantastic now and drives awesome. It has certianly taken a beating and keeps coming out striaght.

How so what? Yes, i doubt a increase in pressure for a tire size that only increased 1 inch will make much of a difference, being pressure inside a tire increases and decreases with temperature. A pound or two is no big deal, but increasing the pressure to the max on the sidewall will create issues.

Go with what is on the sticker, on the door jamb. Just because you increased the tires size, does not mean you changed the weight of the vehicle. I will also assume you did not change the Load rating(C,D,E) for your new tires, so again, any deviation from factory pressure is not needed. Overpressurizing your tires will just wear the center of the tread sooner and reduce the amount of tread patch contacting the road in corners. The pressure on the side of the tire is the max pressure for the tire. That should only be used when fully loaded or towing.

Depends on the whine. If the whine continues as you rev the engine, it may the the timing chain tensioner pads wearing. There is a TSB for it. It isnt exactly cheap to do, if your paying for it out of warranty. I would take the serp belt off and see if it is still there or goes away.

Has the fluid been changed? Maybe its reacting to the wrong fluid in it. Cant use Mercon/Dexron anymore. It has to be the Matic S fluid from nissan. At this time, I would flush it and go from there.

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/37931-r51-owners-how-to-save-your-transmission/

What color is the fluid? 05's are known fo rthe transmission cooler cracking at the radiator(internally) and contaminating each other. Your coolant will also contaminate and look kinda gray-ish. You can bypass the cooler and flush the transmission, but damage may already be done. Yes, it will require both a new radiator and transmission if that is what you have going on. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/37931-r51-owners-how-to-save-your-transmission/

Turn your key on and look for a red security light. Does it stay on or blink? If its on solid, it may have lost the programming for the key. Some nissans you can put the key in the ignition and turn the key on and let it sit for about 30 minutes. It may pick up the key transponder and allow you to start. Other than that, scan it for codes.

Its under the right side of the dash. Removal of the glove box may be needed. Thats also how you would get to the in-cabin filter.

I used a Flex-a-lite variable fan speed controller and a trimline fan. Pretty simple and fairly well laid out. IF you can wire a stereo, you can install a e-fan. Whatever fan you use, make sure it move at least 2500 cfm of air for proper cooling. See page 4 of my member page.. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/17128-5523pathfinders-1995-pathfinder/page-4

For studs that are drilled off center like that, what I have done is take a larger bit, a bit larger than the stud, and drill the "face" of the stud and hole. Yes, this does remove just a small bit if head material, but will recenter for a smaller drill bit. Use a small bit and remover and walk it out. I have also used a automatic center punch to walk the stud around and out.

Pull the filter and look around. Sounds like a obstruction, maybe rodent related. You could also lower the blower motor down and inspect it for debris.

Pull the filter and look around. Sounds like a obstruction, maybe rodent related. You could also lower the blower motor down and inspect it for debris.

Washed the outside again. Wiped down the dash and giggled at the drops of mud I always find(they never seem to go away!). Also, been monitoring the temp gauge the last few weeks to monitor how the E-fan is working. So far so good. When it was over 90, the gauge did get up to 3/4 with the a/c on, but seem to be working well. Maybe picked up a half mile per gallon, maybe. But revs and runs a lot better(and quieter!)

I used a similar kit, but with the 3in lift coils. You probably need to reindex the torsion bars to help the front. As I have learned, you still need the front a bit lower than the rear, so you don't chew up your front axles.

Use the IMG code and post it in the text. I assume you are using a pic hosting site?

More space? Go down to one sub! Thats what I did.... Bolted the storage box down to the floor in the tie down locations.

http://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/cb-antenna-mounts/cb-antenna-mount-type/tube-bumper There are other types of tube mounts available. Try your local truck stop, they usually have lots of stuff available.

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/37565-cb-mount-location/?hl=mount http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/36497-cb-install-and-mounting-location/?hl=location http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/20030-newbie-cb-radios/ http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/37521-cb-radio-install-location/?hl=location Man there are a lot of these. Maybe time for a cb location pinned topic.

Sounds like your loosing a speed sensor, or got some junk on a sensor. Just for giggles, have you checked the brake fluid level? that should bring the red BRAKE light on, but it never hurts to look.

Well, a lot of members who have been around a while, may not respond only because they try not to clutter threads up with useless posts. There are not as many R51 owners on here yet so in some cases, you just have to be patient. Im not going to scream SEARCH as some will do, be its also a good idea. Many members have come and gone and cant answer your question, but may have at another time. With over 650,000 posts, some stuff gets answered a lot, others not so much. Again, not many members have the R51, so the info is a little more thin. Be patient. Many have found what they were looking for and thats what makes this a good forum. A little about me so you know I'm not blowing smoke at ya.... Im a master Infiniti/Nissan tech with almost 20 years of experience. I cant answer everything, cause its simply too hard to fix some things over the internet. I have a decent background with the R51, but i left Nissan about 2 years ago, so I'm not totally up to date. Whats funny is that I have 06 pathfinder in my stall as we speak.

Sorry about the slow response, everyday life gets in the way some times. According the the service manual, the neutral switch should be further forward towards the transmission, and the 4wd engagement is a little further back on the transfer case. Some switches had connectors, others had what looks like butt-connectors connecting it. They both just pull apart. If the wiring had been tampered with/repaired, something may have been exposed, causing the short. Glad to see the fuse isn't blowing after you inspected them. You could cut them and put in some new connectors if needed to remove. http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Pathfinder/1995_Pathfinder/tf.pdf Page 9

Try unplugging the transfer case engagement switch down on the transfer case , then engage 4wd. Does the fuse still blow?

Have you had it serviced at all lately? Not being as cold sitting still is not that abnormal. It's a matter of air passing through the condenser. I would check for any debris built up on the condenser(bugs, trash, mud, ect). A hose and water will do wonders! Visually check the system for any leaks. Dirt will easily stick as there is oil in the system. Then I would go have the system professionally checked and make sure the pressures are correct.