5523Pathfinder

Well, not today, but yesterday we went and played!!!! I did loose my maxima swapped alternator right after that shot, but the parts house warrantied it and I swapped it out after leaving the trail.

The new links worked for me Jim!

Im like B, I have no Facebook. You linked one the other day that was public. Do that again. Or, its time to use Photobucket!

Links broken Jim! No worky!

Not necessarily, Ive seen it done and they guy used all the accessories from the 3.3 motor. Also, some had the crank pulley from the 3.0 machined to fit onto the 3.3 crank. Im sure someone else will ring in at some point with a little more information.

Oh, a Idler arm brace is also recommended. You can make one or buy one from several places including 4x4parts.com http://www.4x4parts.com/i-18981134-pathfinder-steering-enhancement-package.html Thats for a brace and stabilizer http://www.4x4parts.com/i-18981130-pathfinder-idler-arm-brace.html Thats for just the brace

It sounds like you have a worn centerlink. It's a very common failure. Feel free to use the search function to find more threads on center link failures. There are several ways of dealing with this issue. These are in no specific order. 1. Factory center link from Nissan or other parts manufacturer(ie: Moog). This is the easiest way to go if you don't wheel and don't want to improve much on the overall system. I personally went through 2 factory center links rather quickly going off road. Its just not the greatest design for off road use. 2. GrassRoots4x4 Centerlink http://www.grassroots4x4.com/index.php? I installed one of these and its been great. Tightened up my steering and reduced bumpsteer and understeer. Not much more money than a factory center link, but does require drilling out the idler and pitman arms to accept the bolts that hold it together. I also installed new Moog Problem solver inner and outer tie rod ends which are slightly larger than stock. 3. Calmini Steering System https://www.calmini.com/detail.php?b=1&m=3&t=10&p=622&n= I have driven several rigs with this setup and its not too bad. The system is quiet spendy, but it replaces everything and its rebuildable with parts from Calmini. 4. 2 Wheel drive steeing conversion I have not driven or worked on a rig with this setup. It involves complete removal of the 4wd steering system and you install a complete 2wd system. A few others have tried it and maybe they will ring in for difficulty and cost. Again, try the search function to search for more threads about this. Hope this answers some of your question! Here is a link to my build page about the steering. See post #29. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/17128-5523pathfinders-1995-pathfinder/page-2

Not that I know of. There have been some Jeep Cherokee(and Grand) console swaps as well at R50 center console swaps. Anything is possible if you wanna get creative!

Here's a shot of mine...

Changed the oil. Greased all my bushings again. Changed out my front driveshaft grease zerk as it wouldn't let grease through. Lubed my door hinges and window glass run rubbers with silicone spray and wd-40. Cleaned the air flow meter with some spray. Old boy is doing just fine!

Hey Jim, how about Packies old rig... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/39633-packie88-pathfinder/

If they are rated at 80psi, the have got to be a E-rated tire. E rated tires on a pathfinder are going to give it a very stiff ride. Do not run your tires at max pressure unless you are loaded down. Go with the pressure on th left front door jamb. I run BFG M/T KO2s and yeah there is some vibration, but not bad. But I also ain't doing 95! Double check your wheels for any mud or debris caked on them. It would also be a good time to inspect you haven't lost wheel weights. Now, there may be one other issue, and that is the amount of road force in the tires. Did you balance the tires or take it somewhere?

What kind of tires? Have you checked your driveshaft u-joints? I have replaced several front u-joints in the rear driveshaft.

They also don't change the oil as often, or at all, like we do here. Inspect it well. I think you should rebuild the stock motor and spend the money on this... https://ruggedrocksoffroad.com/nissan-pathfinder-solid-axle-swap-kit-sas-by-rugged-rocks-1988-1995-p-57971.html?osCsid=p85u8rd328c5e9gnc38sr3utl1

So I emailed the 4x4podcast with some feedback. I gave them heads up about our forum. They read the feedback on a recent episode too. Hopefully they and some other people will hear about us!

Have you tuned it up recently? How many miles you got on it? Any other recent work done?

Washed him tonight. First time since August I think. I know I had mud on it from Labor Day Wheelin activities.

Double check and make sure the backing plate is not touching the rotor.

Yes, but you take off stupid fast and get to hear that engine scream!

I cant say I have ever heard of someone saying it shifts too soft! But to each their own. There are some tuners out there, but im not sure what they do for transmission shift points. I do know this, if you drive the vehicle more agressively, it will adapt to your driving style eventually. Side effects will be down fuel mileage and increased wear on a number of components. Nissan spends a lot of time/money on trying to make sure you dont really feel the shift at all. No, you dont have to bypass the radiator i a 09. The transmissions in these things are rather spendy, keep that in mind.

Its probably the auto-lock feature. Yes, if you have the control panel in the center stack, you should be able to find it under settings and either delay the time or shut it off. A lot of nissans have this feature so you dont accidentally forget to lock your vehicle or bum the unlock buton and not open a door. It should cancel itself if a door is opened though. Your owners manual should explain it in easier detail.

I find it difficult to believe that someone cracked a valve cover, unless they were being a hack and tightening everything with a impact gun. 3.5 oil leaks are not as common as the 3.3 and 3.0, but still happen. Heck, they love to leak down into the spark plug holes and cause intermittent misfires. I would recommend putting some engine oil dye and tracing the leak with a UV light. Maybe you can have the shop do this and request to see it when they find it.

And caR50s

Ok, they replaced the rear main seal, but did they replace the rear main seal housing gasket?