5523Pathfinder

Here is my writeup on how to bypass the radiator... http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/37931-r51-owners-how-to-save-your-transmission/ Im not really sure why nissan decided to run the oil through the trans then through a seperate cooler. I can only assume for warming up the transmission fluid faster to soften shifts. I have done this bypass on several rigs now with no issues. If it wasnt stated, the radiators develop a small crack in the lower tank which is where the transmission fluid passes through. The pressure of the cooling system causes coolant to get into the transmission fluid system and will destroy the clutches in the transmission. This happened to me personally when I was going to work one day in my buddies Frontier. It failed and we were stuck on the side of the road. Nissan had not extened the warranty yet and he was basicly screwed(even though he worked at the Infiniti dealer with me and nissan didnt care!). Somehow they ok'd replacing his transmission, but not the radiator. They basicly made him buy a facotry radiator then they would put the transmission in. About 6 months later the warranty extension came out and he got refunded by Nissan.

I like the 2wd idea. I Lockrite in the rear, some decent tires and maybe a winch up front would be a decent tow rig and get you to most places fairly easy. If you just need a 4wd for those more exciting adventures, I would also recommend buying another rig.

Ain't that the truth! Gonna be in the mid 50's this week, gettin poured on in the meantime.

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/12828-how-to-change-your-timing-belt/

http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Pathfinder/2008_Pathfinder/ec.pdf Page 736(if it doesn't take you there). Pages 46, 47 and 48 give a picture of the system components. Anyway, that will give you a breakdown of how to check the system. I was just thinking, I wonder if you had the spark plugs replaced recently? The reason I ask is that you have to remove some of the evap components onthe upper intake to gain access to the spark plugs. As far as the hoses go, the run from your engine, under your vehicle back to the evap canister and filler tube. If there are no obvious hose issues, there may be a valve stuck (vent contol valve) by forgien debris(ice, mud, insects, ect). There is a possibility your ecm could also need to be reprogrammed(logic parameters habve have been changed at some point).

I would recommend a cap from the dealer. I have chased too many evap problems due to faulty aftermarket caps.

The p0455 code is for a large evap leak, usually tht means the gas cap is loose, or put on wrong. I have seen lots of people get the little strap that holds it to the body, under it and create a leak. If you dont find anything there, check for any hoses disconnected in the engine bay, as well as under the body. Cracks can sometimes form on the rubber hoses and create a leak as well. If you cant see anything and the light wont go out after driving serval "drive cycles" then a shop/dealer should be able to close th system and hook up a smoke machine to find the leak.

God Jul! Merry Christmas everyone! Hope everyone has a good one!

I dont think the 3rd member would be a direct swap. Im sure things dont line up the same. Would probably take some time machining t get it right, but the cost of that mihgt change your mind. Now swapping the whole axle is a possiblity. Some fab would still be needed for the links, spring perches, driveshaft and electrical connections. I think there is a lokka locker option out there, but im not sure.

I have ran/run a steering stabilizer for a long time. When I had my OE centerlink, I think it helped extend its life and hide some issues. I replaced the centerlink with a Grassroots version and I love it. Steering is tight and havent had any issues with alingment. IMO, the 2wd steering setup is a bit unprooven for off road durability and how it holds up over time. I have over 240k on my rig and put the GR centerlink on around 160k. I daily drive and wheel my rig and know the system works. For the record, I also have the Idler arm brace from 4x4parts and moog greaseable inner and outer tie rods(which are thicker than OE).

The rear bumperscan be easily moved up. There are extra holes. Many have dont this including myself. The front bumper is a bit more tough. The flimsy brackets dont help. If you wanna keep the front factory bumper, you gonna need to get creative. There are few aftermarket options. Custom is probably the best way to go, you just have to find a shop who will build it for you. A ARB front bumper can be found, but they are scarce, and may still need to be modified.

Well, if you think about it, the factory setup is like that or worse. At least it's scooping the air from above the hoodline where air is already much smoother and less turbulent than in front of the grille(or as it passes through the opening to the airbox). What should go hand in hand with a snorkel is, relocating your ECU. If your were ever to ford some water, it don't take much to get in under the passenger seat and wipe it out.

Well, its a true cold air intake!

Should be next to blower motor, but under the box instead of on the side like a pathfinder. Its been a while, but it may be the "card" style resistor(unlike the block resistor in the pathfinder), so it may be thin with 2 screws holding it in.

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/37673-how-to-replace-your-leaking-oil-cooler-o-ring/ Your Toyota just would of had a water pump leak! Seriously, this is a easy, common and fairly cheap repair.

I currently have a 2013 Pathfinder in my stall. I just pulled the wheels and inpected the brakes. Using my brake pad measuring tool, the front pads are 6mm and the rears are 4mm. Vehicle has almost 35k on it(and it is 4wd).

If you do that(remove the rear shaft) be sure to plug the transfer case output with something as to not leak fluid.

I assume you have a automatic transmission? Dont pull by just the front wheels, get a full trailer. Even with the transfer case in neutral, you can still spin the rear of the transmission. Doing this will burn it up(look in your owners manual if you still have one). A full trailer is cheaper than a new transmission.

Yes you should. They are torque-to-yield bolts, meaning that they stretch everytime they are torqued. I dont have the part number, but contact Alkorahil(Rob) in the Services section(our resident nissan parts guru).

Well, its hard to say. You say he doubled checked everything, but how? First thing that comes to mind is the timing belt. Are all the marks lined up in the right spots? As far as timing goes, did the distributor get put back in in the correct orientation(not 180 degrees out)? Did all the spark plug wires get routed correctly? How about a fuel pressure test? Can he perform a compression test? Any strange noises from the engine when trying to start? Sorry for all the questions, but you got a tough one to figure out over the internet!

Out of curiosity, what tire pressure are you running?

That would do it.

Blue smoke can indicate a rich mixture. I would look for a vacuum leak first off, especially because you said it dies. Have you done a tune up or anything lately? Wrong spark plugs love to foul in nissan engines.

The hardbody lights are a bit longer and the body lines dont line up. I had a set of LED tail lights on my Hardbody a few years back. I found them on Ebay and they looked great. I emailed the company about making a set for pathfinders, but never heard back.

Nope.